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Hello,
I saw the new (2021 +) Slingshot rear sprocket does not have an outer lip anymore.
They probably did that because of the whining noise when the belt hit the lip.
Has anybody modified (turned down the outer lip off the sprocket) on their pre 2021 Slingshot?
thank you,
Rick
The front pulley is already "lipless" on both sides. I'd think having both pulleys like that might be an invitation to throwing a belt and getting stranded. JMO.
As rbien referenced, when power is added on our 2015 the drive belt tends to move towards the outside of the rear sprocket, and that lip. When the belt comes into contact with that outer lip that is when the common issue of squealing occurs. So, the trick with helping to eliminate this squealing was to adjust the belt in such a way that it maintained it's distance from that outer lip. This included the combination of adjusting tension, (the tighter the belt the less if moves back and forth across the rear sprocket), with position, (adjusting the belt towards the inside lip while the vehicle is at rest or lower power.) Also having to keep in mind that the belt tends to get tighter the warmer it becomes. At least with us this turned out to be a tedious process of trial and error to achieve this proper balance, which is why many owner's have chosen just to use dry lubricant on the belt . Since I have not read as much about belt squealing on newer models of SlingShots, I am assuming that removing that outer lip is what is responsible for these lack of complaints today? I would think that the remaining concern then would be to keep the belt adjusted as such as it does not "roll off" the rear sprocket? Or, did that lip actually do much in keeping the belt on the sprocket in the first place?
Maybe one of our vendors can come up with a replacement "lipless" rear sprocket, but then if I understand correctly, replacing the rear sprocket in itself is not neccessarily a piece of cake?
Bill
An added note which may help those that are still trying to figure out how to adjust the drive belt, when I first started monkeying around with the belt I was also trying to adjust the belt away from the inner lip. But then I had a "DUH" moment, the light bulb came on, and I realized this was a mistake, where it is ok for the belt to ride against that inner lip when the SlingShot is standing still, or under low power, because as you add power, the belt is naturally going to pull away from that inner lip. This allowed me more latitude when adjusting the belt to keep away from that outer lip.
Bill
On the newer Slingshots, the front pulley has flanges on both sides. So the question should be, can we install both newer style pulleys onto older models?
On the newer Slingshots, the front pulley has flanges on both sides. So the question should be, can we install both newer style pulleys onto older models?
There is a difference in the number of teeth, with the newer sprocket having 35T vs 39T for the older design. This would mean your speedometer will not display the correct speed. The ratio of the new sprocket on a 1st Gen would be 35/147 compared to the original design of 39/147, meaning the new rear wheel combo would spin 0.238 times for each rotation of the new drive sprocket, compared to the old combo which spins at 0.265 times for each rotation of the old drive sprocket. If my math is correct, the speedo will read about 10% slower than your actual speed. The end result should produce more acceleration and possibility of wheel spin since the effective rear gearing is lower. Otherwise, looking at the pics and part numbers/specs, it looks like the swap would be doable.
One thing I did note comparing the 2 designs - The bolts that secure the Washer-Lock Plate are both M6x1.0x16, but the 2nd Gen bolt carries ZYL NYL designators vs the 1st Gen designator of HXFLNG and I'm not aware of the distinctions. It isn't apparent to me just how Item 13 is secured to the drive sprocket on the 2nd Gen parts. I would hope the 2nd Gen service manual explains how to install these 2 parts.
Hopefully, some with more experience at working out the gearing chnages, say Dave@DDMWorks, can verify or correct my numbers.
yes I have read that the new Polaris motor have a different final drive ratio to better deal with the higher rpm power band of the motor
There is a difference in the number of teeth, with the newer sprocket having 35T vs 39T for the older design. This would mean your speedometer will not display the correct speed.
The Slingshot uses a front wheel speed sensor as the signal for the Speedometer.
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rbien Is this question in conjunction with a squeal that you are experiencing?
if so this did the trick for me and I used it very sparingly- 5 bucks- give it a try.
I use this... but about the same stuff...
If in fact the double sided front sprocket pulley and the single sided rear sprocket pulley is the answer to the squeal fix. I'd be interested in an aftermarket first generation replacement set.
If in fact the double sided front sprocket pulley and the single sided rear sprocket pulley is the answer to the squeal fix. I'd be interested in an aftermarket first generation replacement set.
The first generation belt system can be adjusted so not to squeal, that is the real answer. The lipless rear sprocket may just make it a lil easier.
Bill
If the belt is making noises, then it needs to be adjusted.
From what I have read it's very picky and has a narrow "sweet spot". Mine isn't really that bad. In fact, it may be in the sweet spot or close enough that any adjustment may put it in a worse position. Probably just that after owning so many belt driven motorcycles that are very quiet. I tend to think the amount of torque demand, the single sided swing arm and the length (distance) of the final drive all lend to it.
For now a shot of dry lube from time-to-time is fine. If after time things change ill try an adjustment.
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Reverse physics? Gunna have ta help me out on this one. Is this like if I eat the whole bag a chips my belt gets tighter - I get that....
When the wind kicks up around here we can get a great deal of fine dust in the air - - I have found that this dust buildup on the belt (probably combined with brake dust) seems to be the root cause of any belt noise I get. If I take a bucket of water and a brush and clean the belt off, my belt will be nice a quiet. How long it stays this way can be as short as a couple of weeks up to a couple of months all depending on how much dirt and dust it is exposed to - driving on any kind of a dirt road or parking lot even for a short distance is almost guaranteed to cause squealing. Also I have noticed that this seems to be more of an issue in colder weather than it is when it warms up. and it also something that only happens under acceleration - as others have said most likely because the belt shifts to the outside under load. I have not messed with trying to adjust the belt, I kind of figure that since it is not an issue when the belt is clean that cleaning it seems like a better thing for me to do than messing with the adjustment and risk making it more of a problem.
As a side note I tend to be a bit negligent in cleaning the belt like this. I seem to put it off until it starts making noise. Fact is if I simply did this type of cleaning every time I cleaned the rest of the Slingshot I would probably never have any belt noise
Also I removed my belt guard a long time ago. took it off to make cleaning the belt easier but also because I like the look better without the guard.
wjfyfe You say the belt gets “tighter “ as it warms up ? I would think the opposite.
Check your belt tension before going on a ride, and check it again after some miles.
Or, you can simply just take our word for it.
Bill
I just don't accelerate very hard and that has either fixed the squeal or maybe my hearing aids need replaced.
