New Hahn/QA1 Bolt-In Spherical Coilovers!

Quote from Flybuddy

Don't mess with the guy selling these or you may incur "The Wrath of Hahn"

Khan is a classic in our household! His charisma in selling Corinthian leather and stays on his secluded and mysterious island are things of legend

Hey everyone! First, a quick QA1 in the Valley report, complements of all our wonderful customers and superb feedback on the numerous installs we've performed here. Then I will review this thread for individual replies.

Stock Height

We've fine-tuned the pre-setting for stock height, and it goes as follows. For front, we should have 1 3/4" of exposed bright aluminum thread beneath the black spring nuts. For rear, 1". We had sent some sets out at settings of 1 1/4" both front and rear, but these new numbers derived from multiple installs are repeating well, so let's go with them as our starting point.

Install Tips

Record Stock Height

With the machine on a flat surface, measure your stock height (chassis to pavement) at two locations: in the front just ahead of the front lower control arm mount, and in the rear a couple of inches away from the end of the center frame tube on passenger side. Most stock SL's are 5 1/2" front, 6" rear with this method. Base models will be about 1/2" to 3/4" lower. Record yours so you can use the spring height adjustment to return to it, or to vary from it (if so desired).

Front

As @Speedr117 mentioned, we have determined that it's much easier to jack up both front wheels and replace both coilovers at once. This allows both lower control arms to relax fully, as their movement is to some degree constrained by the swaybar. I prefer to put the bottom bolt in first, then swing the top into position and then place the top bolt. Don't tighten anything yet.

With one new coilover in, the other can be installed simply by using your body weight to push down on the tire to flex the suspension/ sway bar slightly to get the top mount swung into place. As in the first coilover, install bottom first.

Tighten all four mounting nuts to the point where all "slack" is out of the bolt/nut. Now, let machine down to ground so that vehicle weight is bearing upon the suspensions. Now final tighten all four bolts. If you use a torque wrench, 35 ft/lbs will do.

Rear

A bit more challenging than the front. There is an access hole in the passenger storage well that allows one to get the 15mm socket on the top bolt. Of course, jack the rear up so that suspension pressure is released first.

While the upper hole in the well does allow one to access the upper bolt with a socket, effectively maneuvering said bolt in and out will require access from the bottom. While one can get one's arm up in there alongside the coilover to reach the bolt, it is a very snug fit. As such, some may prefer to remove the rear plastic panel through which the coilover protrudes, thus gaining excellent access. It's just a handful of screws and clips.

I prefer to mount the top of the rear shock first, then pivot in and install the bottom. Like with the fronts, do not finish torque bolts until you've rested the weight of the machine on the rear suspension.

Setting Height

The included wrenches make this effective and easy. The best advice: take the weight of the vehicle off the spring when you are adjusting, as this reduces the wrenching force required.

Damping Settings

For all types, we start at fully relaxed (knob fully counter-clockwise).

Single Adjustable
We've found that most riders like to start at about four-five clicks in from fully relaxed. That's a nice street starting setting. Crank it up higher for the twisties, and play around to your heart's content to find the settings that best suit the task at hand.

Double Adjustable
Start with compression at about three clicks, and rebound at five. Double adjustables require exponentially more experimentation to arrive at capable settings, but are so worth it for the advanced user who can take full advantage of the discrete, independent adjustment of compression and rebound.

Overall, personal preference and machine setup will ultimately dictate which settings best suit you. Experiment liberally.

At first, it's most effective to use larger adjustment attempts, a few clicks at a time, as opposed to a single click. This way, one can establish momentum and direction first, and then fine-tune with single clicks to seal the deal.

Most of all, never forget that you now have an adjustable suspension that you can always re-set as needed to suit the task at hand. A long highway cruise? Go for soft, cushy comfort. A day in the twisties? Turn that damping up! Enjoy the ability to always achieve an optimal feel and grip, and move forever past the limitations of those stock "pogo sticks!"

A further install tip:

We are finding that the lower stock mounts on the front control arms tend to compress a bit from having been on the stock coilovers. This slightly crimped mount can make it difficult to slide in the new coilover and precision stainless steel mounting bushings we provide. If you encounter this, there is an easy fix. Simply use a prybar to spread each ear of the mounting bracket outward slightly. The prybar end will rest against the head of the bracket's mounting bolt, in between said bolt head and bracket ear. A little pry outward on each, and that lower mount will drop right in.