Been using these for over 5 months on just the center lights. They do make the outside ones as well. A good many people have been using them on the facebook group slingshot nation. For 30 bucks I decided to try them and I have been very happy with them. Simple install.
LED replacement headlights
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Display MoreThe H11 and H3 bulbs that I bought are the same brightness…..Very bright.
Both inner and outer housings are projector housings that have a very wide beam with a sharp cut off line.
The inner housing has a mechanical shutter that opens for the high beam. The light doesn’t get brighter, it just lifts the shutter for a full round reflector as opposed to a half moon pattern.
I would certainly suggest adjusting both as per the manual. Even stock and untouched, I see many are way out of adjustment. With such a sharp cut off, even being a slight bit high transitions to a huge difference 100 yards ahead of you. Adjusting both are very easy. I believe they are torx T20 (maybe T25). Plus, when they are all adjusted to focus in front of you, that gives you much better visibility of what you need to see. Easiest analogy would be to take 4 flashlights and point them in parallel at the wall. Then adjust them to the same spot on the wall. Big difference.
Great advise! I understand the shutter on the center lights. Is the adjustment on the center lights in the low beam setting only a right-left adjustment because of the shutter. And only the height adjustment available in the high beam mode? Seems it would be.
Also - have you or did you adjust the side H-3 lights toed out a bit to the right and left for better side visibility or just pointing straight a head?
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Great advise! I understand the shutter on the center lights. Is the adjustment on the center lights in the low beam setting only a right-left adjustment because of the shutter. And only the height adjustment available in the high beam mode? Seems it would be.
Also - have you or did you adjust the side H-3 lights toed out a bit to the right and left for better side visibility or just pointing straight a head?
I adjusted the inner lights in low beam mode so the cutoff matches the same as the outer lights. There are 2 torx above each housing that allow for adjustment.
Polaris calls for the following at 25 feet:
19-20.75 inches (48-53 cm) for base models
20-21.75 in (51-55 cm) for SL models
While Polaris gives an adjustment for what they call “auxiliary” headlamps (the outers), I adjusted them to align with the same as the inner lights.
Edit: I keep them straight ahead. They have a wide beam pattern. No need to toe out.
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Also, if you unplug all but the bulb you are adjusting, it makes life much easier.
I just took a piece of plywood, made a line at 20.5" off the ground, placed it 25 feet in front, and adjusted each housing (powered alone) to hit the mark.
Since I am running 22" rims all around, I went with the higher side of what a base model calls for.
If you have an SL, there is a bit of forward rake due to the 2" different rims. I would go with 21.5" from ground in this case.
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Also, if you unplug all but the bulb you are adjusting, it makes life much easier.
I just took a piece of plywood, made a line at 20.5" off the ground, placed it 25 feet in front, and adjusted each housing (powered alone) to hit the mark.
Since I am running 22" rims all around, I went with the higher side of what a base model calls for.
If you have an SL, there is a bit of forward rake due to the 2" different rims. I would go with 21.5" from ground in this case.
Well said! Thank you!
I will be raising the whole vehicle an inch or so as even before loading up for a trip I sometimes scrape the front end. After I do this then I will adjust the new headlights. All great information thank you so much!🙂
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What kind of bulbs, the 360's as well? Price sounds great!
yes, 360’s. 6,500k color
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Been using these for over 5 months on just the center lights. They do make the outside ones as well. A good many people have been using them on the facebook group slingshot nation. For 30 bucks I decided to try them and I have been very happy with them. Simple install.
General rule of thumb when aiming headlights -
Try to aim the headlight aimed so the low beam doesn't project any higher than the center-line of the headlight measured from the ground up to the center of the headlight bulb. When properly aimed, the low beam also shouldn't project above the rear deck of a typical car wgen approaching a car from behind. Aiming this way guarantees the light will not blind oncoming drivers, especially when using aftermarket LED or HID bulbs that may have light spread/dispersion patterns compared to conventional headlight bulbs. When I first tried HID bulbs and then LED bulbs on my Slingshot, I would get flashed by oncoming drivers until I took the time to ensure my headlights were properly aimed.
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Been using these for over 5 months on just the center lights. They do make the outside ones as well. A good many people have been using them on the facebook group slingshot nation. For 30 bucks I decided to try them and I have been very happy with them. Simple install.
I bought these back in February 2020 in 9012/H1R2 form to use in my Ford Edge. I recently noticed that the passenger side bulb no longer seemed to show the two-sided nature of the bulb while the driver side still did. Oddly enough, when I placed my Note 8 phone with 3 different light meter apps, the driver side bulb consistently showed a lower light reading than did the "broken" bulb on the passenger side.
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Is there a difference between an H-3 and a HB3?
I was researching this the other day. H3 bulbs have a single conductor that connects to the power wire and the base of the bulb grounds the bulb. HB3 bulbs have a 90 degree connector with 2 wires inside for power and ground. This EBay seller has a pic showing the differences - https://www.ebay.com/itm/sets-…ADLIGHT-FOG-/141894412563.
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Here is what the stock outside bulb looks like.
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So no boot at all? Just thinking of perhaps leaving the fan exposed but trying to cover the rest to keep dirt and whatnot out of the socket area.
That's what I did - no boot. The seem to be waterproof, fans and all. I haven't had the covers on since I first installed them and 18 months with no issues.
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mpj220 I did not re-install the rubber boot. It would only trap heat. Bulbs are waterproof.
So no boot at all? Just thinking of perhaps leaving the fan exposed but trying to cover the rest to keep dirt and whatnot out of the socket area.
The LED bulbs and fans are waterproof. They produce some heat and really rely on the fan and heat sink to dissipate that heat.
Using the rubber boot with a little cut out for the LED fan often doesn't allow enough cooling.
I have used similar LED bulbs in my ATV. Quite often fully submerged. No issues at all. Actually, after playing in the thick mud, we would play in the river or pond on the way back to wash the nasty off.
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I still have the SSO LED bulb sets I bought in 2016. I didn't use the rubber boot and the only problem I noticed was some rust on the LED fan housing. The LEDs seem fine otherwise.
I found the dual screw adjustment setup on the outer headlight frame to be a PITA when trying to get the Canadian Headlights and the Auxiliary headlights aimed properly. I ended up adding 3mm nylon washers to on the lower headlight screws that secure the Auxiliary headlights to the mounting frame get the Auxiliary headlights aimed a little higher once I had the CH units properly aimed.
I received the Hella Classic 90mm high beam and Low beam headlights from EBay seller NEWENGLANDINDUSTRIAL (https://www.ebay.com/usr/newen…ksid=p2057872.m2749.l2754) within 2 days of ordering and am now trying to figure out how I might get them mounted.Cost was considerably cheaper than Amazon. The High beam unit is shorter and is a reflector headlight using an H9 bulb. The Low beam unit is a couple inches longer and is a projector unit also using an H9 bulb. At this point, it doesn't look like the 90mm units will fit in place of the 60mm units and will hit the main 10mm mounting bolt that secures the mounting frame in place. I'll try to post some more info posted tomorrow.
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mpj220 I did not re-install the rubber boot. It would only trap heat. Bulbs are waterproof.
So no boot at all? Just thinking of perhaps leaving the fan exposed but trying to cover the rest to keep dirt and whatnot out of the socket area.
No boot on mine either. Have been running them for over a year (including my disasterous trip to St Louis in the pouring rain) and no problems. Heat kills LED's, not water.
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No boot on mine either. Have been running them for over a year (including my disasterous trip to St Louis in the pouring rain) and no problems. Heat kills LED's, not water.
I cut the ass end out of the boot and reinstalled it - We shall see. Rain not an issue really here but will keep the pressure washer out of it. I took some flat black paint after I gathered up all the wiring with zip tabs and gave it a shot. Made for a nice hidden look rather than a rats nest!
