Posts by mpj220

Attention Vendors. Please email robert@rabtech.com any instruction manuals you may have for your products. They will be added to the FILEBASE tab for members to access.

    I have had two different 24" sequential DRL (white) / sequential turn (yellow) strips on my Slingshot.


    The first set worked flawlessly. They were "side firing" so, I had them mounted underneath the front valance. Emergency flashers worked perfectly with key on or off.

    Unfortunately, since they were mounted on the under side of the valance, they got torn apart when exiting a parking lot.


    I replaced them with a set that would mount on the front of the lower valance. These work fine when the Slingshot is running. DRL, turn signal, emergency flash.

    Turn the key off and no more emergence flash. A brief flash can be seen....that's it.


    I am assuming that there is no consistency on how these "cheapy" LED strips are manufactured / controlled.


    The current set appear to require the constant 12V from the running light as the "power source" and the blinker is a trigger to begin the sequential amber. Without that 12V, flashing just won't happen.

    Folks: Just a thought for shits and giggles. I know the Pedal Cdr is not waterproof, but I still like where Slingmods video has mounted it. It is centered and looks like it belongs there. Anyway, rather than use the 3d adhesive, I was thinking about using black velcro and that way be able to take it off and wrap it or enclose it somehow (yet to be decided how) to keep it from getting wet. Just thinking outside the box.

    I plan to mount it where Slingmods shows in the photos - just seems to fit way too good there.


    My plan is to try to waterproof via either shrink bags or shrink tubing. Just waiting for it to arrive so I can get some measurements.


    This gives the idea:

    https://youtu.be/hQrUx5P3Fxs


    I used tubing like this in the past to make custom Lipo packs for my RC planes:

    2.95" Tubing

    or

    2.55" Tubing

    Group buy pricing would push me over the edge to buy and submit a review.

    If you do offer group pricing, please notify me.

    Looking for some input on an aftermarket steering wheels.


    I have a 2017 SL in Navy Blue.


    Currently looking at the Assault Industries Ballistic D-Shape in blue.


    Being a "D" shape, is it something you get used to or, does it really not even come into play with normal driving.


    I thought about a quick release for security but, they look to add additional space, pushing the steering wheel closer to me.

    My goal is to try to get the steering wheel a little further away.


    What hub adapter? There doesn't seem to be any info on how deep each one is. I am leaning towards the DDMWorks, mainly because I have their shocks and sway bar so..... brand loyalty. Besides, it seems to be the lowest cost as well.


    Any input is appreciated.

    We had about 15 Slingshots together yesterday in Southern Connecticut.

    Hosted by Libby's Motoworld of New Haven.

    Started with coffee, donuts (courtesy of Libby's)

    Some fantastic deals on Polaris Slingshot apparel.......got me a new jacket!

    Lunch at the Crab Shell in Stamford CT.


    2.5 hour ride home for me.....Great group of people, well worth the day.


    https://youtu.be/a1rhIInPTCc

    Any of you guys done HID kit instead of LEDs? For projectors based on my research HIDs seem to outperform LEDs when inside a projector housing.

    I use HID in both inner and outer lights. Chose 5000K for color, 35W ballast. They have been trouble free for more than a year.


    LED's are often longer than factory halogen bulbs. This places the light further in the projector housing producing a more scattered pattern. Yes, it is brighter than halogens but, more diffused. This is often the reason why oncoming traffic believes you have high beams on. Some LED bulbs do have an allen head set screw that allows you to adjust the depth. I bought these LED bulbs and installed in my daughter's 1999 Subaru and it works excellent once adjusted. I adjusted them while parked at night. The results are the same as when you "zoom" in with a Maglite.


    With the Slingshot, I could not find any adjustable LED's for that socket size.


    I was able to search and find "metal case" HID bulbs for both inner and outer. The depth where the HID bulb produces the greatest amount of light seems to be very close to the depth of a halogen so, the beam is much more focused than LED's. I did have to adjust the aim of my outer lights after install. The manual gives you measurements. Pretty easy to do. I found using 2 allen wrenches at the same time allowed me to adjust very easily - like an "etch a sketch" to adjust the beam.

    The HID produces less heat. Only mod needed to the rubber boots was a small slice to allow the wires/connector through. For the most part, it self seals.



    The downside of HID is that you have to mount the additional ballast and dress up the additional wires. They also have a "warm up" time to get to full brightness. This is under 30 seconds.

    If you want to go "stoopid" bright, you can always opt for the 55w HID ballast.

    On the floorboard vent option, I see the vents can closed to reduce airflow.


    How do they function in / handle rain? Anyone with direct experience?


    Given their location, it would seem they would pick up a good bit of water off the road and tires. I doubt closing the vent would be water tight - just curious how much water might get into the passenger cabin.

    I got caught in rain only once. Was not a downpour, just a shower.

    Nothing came through, no puddles on the floor.

    I would imagine if you are riding in a downpour for long periods of time, something will pass through.

    Read your install and review. Bought the parts, just don’t have the courage to cut the hole. 😟

    I was a bit worried when I decided to take the plunge.


    Started with passenger side, from inside out, marking the center of my 3" hole. Making sure it was 3.25" above the floor to allow the vent trim ring room from the floor.

    First hole was a small 3/32" drill as a test. Figured it was easy to plug/hide.

    Double quadruple check. Insert a piece of wire. Check both sides again.

    Stepped up to a 1/4" drill.

    After the 1/4" hole was there, break out the flashlight and multiple pairs of cheater glasses.

    Wanted to make certain nothing was sandwiched in there.

    Then, most important!

    I made a paper template so that the drivers side would be in the very same location.

    Then the 3" hole......dripping sweat as it plunged through.



    A club member wanted one for his but, was far to afraid to drill it so, he asked me.

    Took a little over a half hour to do both sides.

    Both He and his Wife are very happy with the results.

    A friend used an ammonia based cleaner on the black hood plastic and it left light bleach type marks.

    He tried this stuff and it restored it perfectly. Carfidant.

    He has been using it all summer.


    I liked how it brought back the deep dark black look so, I changed to using this.

    Previous products that I used on the Slingshot were:

    303, Slick Mist (inspired by this thread), now Carfidant.

    Just my opinion: Carfidant wins.


    Garage is dark, product applied more than a week ago.