Think I blew my engine

  • Sounds like the perfect time for one of your motors Dave 🤪



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    If he plans on keeping the turbo on there for sure, but sounds like he wants to sell the Slingshot and move on, in that case, put a stock engine in it and sell the turbo kit. Or if he wants to keep the Slingshot, stock engine, 8-9psi of boost and the fix we have for that kit has proven on quite a few of the Hahn kits to be smooth and reliable also, so many options :)

  • If he plans on keeping the turbo on there for sure, but sounds like he wants to sell the Slingshot and move on, in that case, put a stock engine in it and sell the turbo kit. Or if he wants to keep the Slingshot, stock engine, 8-9psi of boost and the fix we have for that kit has proven on quite a few of the Hahn kits to be smooth and reliable also, so many options :)

    Yea I was planning on selling it even before this happened ...and now that I have to dump more money into it just sealed the deal...I'm done lol....any ideas on where I can get a reliable motor?

  • Yea I was planning on selling it even before this happened ...and now that I have to dump more money into it just sealed the deal...I'm done lol....any ideas on where I can get a reliable motor?

    Used motors are plentiful. Check you local salvage yard. Depending on the mileage on them they should go from $500 to $1200. If you have the tools and someone to help you it can be changed out in a day. Hate to see you so dissatisfied with your sling. I have to admit what bad luck I've had with mine was brought on by me. I have one of Dave's super duper heavy duty bullet proof indestructible engines sitting in the floor just waiting on the chance to be put in. If it can be torn up I am the guy!


    Tim "Ghost" Ganey
    Winfield, Alabama
    205spam412spam2868

    Edited once, last by Ghost ().

  • If he plans on keeping the turbo on there for sure, but sounds like he wants to sell the Slingshot and move on, in that case, put a stock engine in it and sell the turbo kit. Or if he wants to keep the Slingshot, stock engine, 8-9psi of boost and the fix we have for that kit has proven on quite a few of the Hahn kits to be smooth and reliable also, so many options :)

    Dave@DDMWorks, what is your fix for the Hahn system? Replacing it with either your supercharger or Borg Warner turbo? :):):)

    Nobody gets outta here ALIVE

  • Just had the compression test done . 1 cylinder is 150 (this is the one with the oily spark plug with the closed gap), number 2 was 30, 3 was 135, and 4 was 150. Checked the cyclinders with a bore scope and could see that the number 2 valve was not closed all the way ....that was the best info I could get considering my friend made a house call...but at this point he feels there's no need to dig any further ...

  • HHR


    Just make sure if you're looking for an Ecotec 2.4 that you get one that is a VVT and not the direct injection


    And if you're going to stay with your Hahn turbo, you have to really make sure you have the correct block. The Gen III's don't have that boss on the lower crankshaft plate (so you can drill and tap for the oil return line)

    Nobody gets outta here ALIVE

  • IIRC, 2008 & earlier Ecotec 2.4 motors had forged rods and post-2008 engines had cast rods. The rods are generally considered a limiting factor in how much boost you can tolerate (300 Hp or 75 HP/rod) for a motor w/stock internals, but the Gen 3 blocks have more reinforcement around the tops of the cylinders for a stronger block and more tolerance for higher boost levels.


    Meant to add that you need to make a trade-off when buying a used engine - go with the forged rods on an older motor or go for the better cylinder wall support on the 3rd gen motor, but I don't know if the rest of the newer engine model is compatible with the Slingshot's older engine design since that block is usually used with Direct Injection, IIRC.

    DDM Works has a good write-up on the engine block differences -

    "We are happy to now offer 3rd gen blocks as a build option. What are 3rd gen blocks? The original LE5/LE9 engine found in the Slingshot has its block cast by a process called "lost foam". During this process a styrofoam engine core is placed in sand and molten aluminum is poured into the mold were the aluminum replaces the styrofoam. If you look closely at the side of the stock engine, you will see the surface looks like styofoam because of this process. This lost foam process allowed GM to cast a complicated engine relatively easily, however it was found to cause a weak point that can allow small cracks to form in the block. This led GM to improve the block during the next revision with a sand cast version of the block. The new 3rd gen sand cast block gives a more uniform finish in the block and is less prone to cracking found in the lost foam castings. GM didn't just stop there though with that improvements to this block, they also added more material to the inside of the block to strengthen the block internally. The most important upgrade however came to the cylinder bores themselves. The stock LE5/LE9 has floating cylinder bores, which mean that the top of the cylinder bores are not secured to the block, the new 3rd gen blocks added material at the top of the cylinder bores to bridge and stabilize the tops of the bores. This bridge also increased the amount of aluminum around the top of the bores to help strengthen the cylinders even more against higher cylinder pressures found with high horsepower builds." See - http://www.ddmworks.com/Built-…e-by-DDMWorks-_p_624.html.

    Edited 2 times, last by BKL ().

  • Hey guys, I sold my sling as is for 10k 😭. The buyer may want to remove the turbo. Will he need to install the stock map sensor or will the 2 bar work? Reason I ask is because I had to cut out the original harness and splice in a pig tail...I don't have the original nor do I remember how to rewire it.

  • Hey guys, I sold my sling as is for 10k 😭. The buyer may want to remove the turbo. Will he need to install the stock map sensor or will the 2 bar work? Reason I ask is because I had to cut out the original harness and splice in a pig tail...I don't have the original nor do I remember how to rewire it.

    Depends on if he gets the ECM reflashed or not. If the ECM still has the tune for the 2 bar MAP sensor, he needs to leave the 2 bar MAP in place. If everything is removed and switched back to the 1 bar MAP sensor, then the ECM needs to be re-programmed for the stock setup.

  • Depends on if he gets the ECM reflashed or not. If the ECM still has the tune for the 2 bar MAP sensor, he needs to leave the 2 bar MAP in place. If everything is removed and switched back to the 1 bar MAP sensor, then the ECM needs to be re-programmed for the stock setup.

    Dave what does a built motor from you cost?