OK, this is the harness that flips the wires around to make a 2 bar map work. So just cut the side off that plugs in to the map sensor and wire it in color for color. Basically just don't let it do the swap of the two wires. Ill include the harness and the map sensor items on amazon.
Awesome thank you. I still have the stock map sensor, so shouldn't I be able to just flip the wires around on my harness that's already on the sling?
Garrett Taguchi you mention something about the stock harness. Are you looking for a complete harness?
I don't think I need the complete harness...just the plug that goes into the map sensor I believe ...it's been so long lol...I found the stock map sensor , but I cannot find the plug that I cut off. The hahn kit at the time required to use a different pigtail harness clip (maybe I'm wording it wrong)and reverse a couple of wires . So in order to go back to stock , what would I need to order ?
So the person who bought my sling may want to go back to stock and sell the turbo ....when I installed my turbo, I had to buy the pig tail harness and splice into the wires to connect the 2 bar map sensor ....I lost the stock harness , so can anyone point me in the right direction as far what the part number is for the stock harness and also how to splice the stock one back in ? I know when I installed the 2 bar, I had to reverse a couple of wires I believe....thanks for any advice.
Hey guys, I sold my sling as is for 10k 😭. The buyer may want to remove the turbo. Will he need to install the stock map sensor or will the 2 bar work? Reason I ask is because I had to cut out the original harness and splice in a pig tail...I don't have the original nor do I remember how to rewire it.
I know someone with a engine and transmission
I'd definitely like more info please .
Can anyone tell me what other cars use this motor ? I know cobalt, solstice, sky, any other models I missed? The main thing is that it's a 2.4 ecotec le5 correct?
Just had the compression test done . 1 cylinder is 150 (this is the one with the oily spark plug with the closed gap), number 2 was 30, 3 was 135, and 4 was 150. Checked the cyclinders with a bore scope and could see that the number 2 valve was not closed all the way ....that was the best info I could get considering my friend made a house call...but at this point he feels there's no need to dig any further ...
Garrett Taguchi , I put a Sad Face on your first post. Really sorry this happened to you.
I now have around 21,000 miles on my Hahn kit. How many miles did you have on your turbo kit when this happened?
Well I bought it used, installed about 3 years ago...and only out like 3500 miles on it lol
I wonder if any forum members who are thinking of boosting and building an engine would be interested in buying it from you as is for an appropriate value? Just thinking out loud.
Im in socal if anyone wants to make an offer...
If he plans on keeping the turbo on there for sure, but sounds like he wants to sell the Slingshot and move on, in that case, put a stock engine in it and sell the turbo kit. Or if he wants to keep the Slingshot, stock engine, 8-9psi of boost and the fix we have for that kit has proven on quite a few of the Hahn kits to be smooth and reliable also, so many options
Yea I was planning on selling it even before this happened ...and now that I have to dump more money into it just sealed the deal...I'm done lol....any ideas on where I can get a reliable motor?
Do you have a picture of the spark plug from cylinder #1, the one closest to the front of the engine you said had oil on it?
The air/fuel ratios under boost sound about right, while not in boost the air/fuel will move around quite a bit, it should go very lean when letting off the gas and be around 14.7 +/-1 while idling and light cruise.
Yea what u described is how it ran when it was running good...after the bogging issue, it was very erratic...at idle and while cruising, it really struggled to stay at 14...
Also, the white smoke typically means coolant is getting into the cylinder(s), make sure to check your coolant level, if it is low or the tank is empty, the most common cause we see is a crack in the cylinder wall, which allows coolant to enter the cylinder. A bore scope will also give you some more information on what is going on if you have one of those.
Hope that helps,
Dave
Coolant level looks good
Also, the white smoke typically means coolant is getting into the cylinder(s), make sure to check your coolant level, if it is low or the tank is empty, the most common cause we see is a crack in the cylinder wall, which allows coolant to enter the cylinder. A bore scope will also give you some more information on what is going on if you have one of those.
Hope that helps,
Dave
Yea, it's gap is closed on that spark plugs...didn't think to check the coolant level, I'll check it in a bit and update you guys... appreciate the help
Definitely curious about what you find caused the issue. Were you running a boost and or afr gauge?
Yea I have the aem failsafe...it was bouncing all over the place at idle and when cruising ...when boosting it would be in the low 12s, high 11s, but at idle and cruising , it would shoot all the way up to 18 and then drop back to 14
Check the two map sensors and you'll see the replacement one has a different end than the one from Hahn. Hahn modifies his with an aluminum bushing. Not sure if the stock one is going to seal tightly into the grommet he uses
Yea I swapped out the bushing ...1 of the o rings was reusable...the other one was deteriorated pretty badly....won't ever know if that was the problem since my dumbass didn't give the ecm a chance to relearn any parameters...
Display MoreFirst off, sorry to hear of your issues. If you have a Hahn 2X turbo system, then the map sensor you have was a 2 bar map sensor. Did you replace it with a 3 bar sensor? Also Hahn uses a modified end to the sensor so make sure you have your new one sealing properly.
I would pull the dipstick or oil filler cap to see if you have clean oil or a "milkshake" to verify coolant into the crankcase. Also check the condition of the spark plugs when you do the compression test. While it wouldn't cause the running issue, but make sure the crankcase filter isn't dirty. The crankcase needs to breath to keep the excess crankcase pressures to suck oil into the combustion chambers to create the smoke you're talking about. You can also remove the change pipe from the turbo to the intercooler and see if you have any oil inside that would indicate either a turbo issue or the crankcase filter restriction.
Sure hope you're not looking at a failure of the engine, but if so I'm sure someone here may have their original engine that they didn't use as a core when they went to a DDM built bullet.
Good luck and keep us informed
Yea I used a 2 bar map sensor...got it on Amazon....ac Delco , and the part number matched the old one. I pulled the spark plugs , one has oil, the one closest to the front of the sling. Haven't checked the oil yet....I'll check the charge pipes as well... hopefully it's just the rings... appreciate everyone's input
You may have a bad seal and bearing in the turbo. That would account for the white smoke and poor running.
Its been running bad for a while...white smoke just happened today.
If you can find someone that wants to put a built motor in a sling, then it could be a win win for you and the buyer...
Yea that'll be like finding a needle in a haystack lol
So I've been having a wierd bogging issue , pretty much exactly like BKL described ...it would still pull hard , but really hesitated under cruising conditions (2500 to 3000 rpm). Took it to a friend's shop , we smoked it, fixed any leaks that we found , replaced The Purge canister because it seemed like it was sticking, still didn't fix the issue. He said without digital wrench he didn't feel comfortable just throwing parts at it. We tested the map sensor and everything checked out, but when I started it, the check engine light came on , code 106 which is an air pressure malfunction...so I thought it must be the map sensor...put a new one in this morning , took it for a drive, didna couple hard pulls, pretty much ran the same, but on my last pull, the engine made a wierd sound and then white smoke ...pulled it into the house and it was sounding like a go kart ...gonna have the compression tested on Tuesday...but at this point , am I better off looking for a used motor or repairing this motor? I'm done with the turbo (and at this point, the sling)...just want to get it running so I can sell it or trade it in....sorry for the long post. I have a hahn stage 2x by the way.
Wbats up guys, it's been a while. I've got this wierd issue that my mechanic (who happens to be my best friend) can't figure out. When the sling is cold, the first time I use the brakes, it's a little soft (which is for the most part normal in these) but the wierd part is that it feels like something is literally tapping the bottom of my foot...it doesn't feel like warped rotors, doesn't feel like abs, it feels very concentrated to one area...after a few pumps, the brakes stiffen up and the feeling is gone for the most part...every now and then, I feel it if I brake slightly hard (it's rare). But it does happen every time the sling is cold...any ideas? I do have the brace for the master cylinder.
