Safety Recall T‑19‑01

Quote from Bigdog

What year is your slingshot..... my 2015 schematic shows the top fuse is for the engine circuit 40 amps. Middle fuse 40 amp. Bottom fuse 50 amp. The melting is on the back of the J Case.

Check your schematic.

mine is a 2016 - top fuse is 50 amp and clearly marked main chassis on the cover center fuse is also 50 amp and is ABS motor and the bottom is 40 amp and is engine - here just for you I opened it up and took a picture - - also in the PDF that Rab posted showing the inspection picture and the fix the melting the melting could be seen on front down where the contacts come through as well as on the back

Yep, I got the following e-mail...

Dear Polaris Slingshot owner,
Our records indicate that you are the owner of a Slingshot affected by Safety Recall T‑19‑01 which was announced on October 22, 2019.
Polaris Slingshot has determined that the vehicle's electrical current requirements may exceed the capability of the battery fuse block terminals under certain conditions. Excess current may lead to terminal damage, resulting in a loss of forward and rear lighting, instrument cluster, or power steering assist, which could increase the risk of a crash. A letter will arrive at your address by postal mail that provides more information about the update and what you should do next.
Please visit our On‑Road Safety Recall page to verify if your Slingshot is impacted by this recall. Your local Polaris dealer can be found on our Dealer Locator page. Contact your dealer to schedule a service appointment or complete a transfer of ownership if you no longer own the vehicle.
While your dealer is in the best position to answer your questions, you can also call our Owner Connections department at 1-800-POLARIS (1-800-765-2747) to speak with a representative.
Sincerely,
Polaris Slingshot

For gits and shiggles...

I entered my VIN at

On-Road Safety Recall page

and no pending recalls are listed for my Slingshot.

That may change when I receive my official letter of notification.

Quote from Edward Neal

mine is a 2016 - top fuse is 50 amp and clearly marked main chassis on the cover center fuse is also 50 amp and is ABS motor and the bottom is 40 amp and is engine - here just for you I opened it up and took a picture - - also in the PDF that Rab posted showing the inspection picture and the fix the melting the melting could be seen on front down where the contacts come through as well as on the back

They increased the ABS Motor fuse from 40 amp to 50 amp.

Quote from Edward Neal

mine is a 2016 - top fuse is 50 amp and clearly marked main chassis on the cover center fuse is also 50 amp and is ABS motor and the bottom is 40 amp and is engine - here just for you I opened it up and took a picture - - also in the PDF that Rab posted showing the inspection picture and the fix the melting the melting could be seen on front down where the contacts come through as well as on the back

the amount of melting visible would depend on when it started to overheat....

Quote from Edward Neal

mine is a 2016 - top fuse is 50 amp and clearly marked main chassis on the cover center fuse is also 50 amp and is ABS motor and the bottom is 40 amp and is engine - here just for you I opened it up and took a picture

Ours is an early model 2015 and it is the same!

Quote

- - also in the PDF that Rab posted showing the inspection picture and the fix the melting could be seen on front down where the contacts come through as well as on the back

I also concur.

Bill

another thing I find interesting is the fact that I have a J-Block (fuse holder) where I am being told that one of the fuse positions with a 50 amp fuse can get hot enough that the plastic around the contact points can met making it unsafe - yet another fuse position that also requires a 50 amp fuse does not seem to have the same issue

if one circuit with a 50 amp fuse can get that hot without blowing the fuse then why are they not worried about second 50 amp fuse and relocating it?

Like you have stated previously, it will be interesting to watch and see how Polaris addresses this issue in future models.Hopefully it will be a cleaner installation than the current fix is.

I am thinking that the next generation of the SlingShot, if there is going to be one, is going to be a some what drastic departure in design from our current model.

Bill

Quote from Edward Neal

another thing I find interesting is the fact that I have a J-Block (fuse holder) where I am being told that one of the fuse positions with a 50 amp fuse can get hot enough that the plastic around the contact points can met making it unsafe - yet another fuse position that also requires a 50 amp fuse does not seem to have the same issue

if one circuit with a 50 amp fuse can get that hot without blowing the fuse then why are they not worried about second 50 amp fuse and relocating it?

I already mentioned my thoughts on that in an earlier post. Pull your 50 amp fuse and look at the tiny prongs. Then compare it to the picture of a 50 amp blade fuse. I believe the current draw is right below the maximum voltage the entire circuit can handle. The tiny prongs are probably getting Really hot and causing the case to melt and start to deform where the fuse plugs in. The heat alone isn’t enough to blow the fuse if the current stays at 49 1/2 amps.

Switching to the heavier blade fuse will take more heat causing less resistance which is why the thing gets hot.

That is why I think we should be splitting the chassis wiring circuit in to two different circuits. When we add anything extra to the chassis circuit we are pushing it closer to over loading. It’s drastically under engineered for all the extra lights and everything else electronic we’ve been adding.

The 50 amp fuse below your chassis fuse doesn’t have anything extra added to it.

we are adding lights and extra fuse boxes to the circuit. The neutrino fuse box (which is technically a sub panel) is rated at 60 amps and it’s connected to a 50 amp circuit. Can you spell catastrophic meltdown. The chassis circuit wiring and fuse should be rated at 125 amps to take that entire load.

I really glad I decided to run a big fat wire directly from the battery to power my neutrino.

Which is probably why all the extra lights and horns and other electronics instructions say to wire them directly to the battery.

I predict new SS will have 4 circuits. Two for chassis. One just for electronic mods.

Quote from Bigdog

I already mentioned my thoughts on that in an earlier post. Pull your 50 amp fuse and look at the tiny prongs. Then compare it to the picture of a 50 amp blade fuse. I believe the current draw is right below the maximum voltage the entire circuit can handle. The tiny prongs are probably getting Really hot and causing the case to melt and start to deform where the fuse plugs in. The heat alone isn’t enough to blow the fuse if the current stays at 49 1/2 amps.

Switching to the heavier blade fuse will take more heat causing less resistance which is why the thing gets hot.

That is why I think we should be splitting the chassis wiring circuit in to two different circuits. When we add anything extra to the chassis circuit we are pushing it closer to over loading. It’s drastically under engineered for all the extra lights and everything else electronic we’ve been adding.

The 50 amp fuse below your chassis fuse doesn’t have anything extra added to it.

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actually neither fuse has anything extra added to it - - -I have not added any electric mods, no lighting, no sound system, no horn - - - all stock

having sad this I suspect you are correct - I think that when they designed that circuit they took it close to its limit without allowing for much if any head room - they were not thinking ahead to allow for what end users would do - - heck they even have "fog light" wires down front that if used will add right on to this very circuit

I also suspect that people like me who have made no changes to increase the draw on this circuit are probably perfectly safe ad are unlikely to have any problems so long as we continue to leave it electrically stock with no additional draw

Quote from Edward Neal

actually neither fuse has anything extra added to it - - -I have not added any electric mods, no lighting, no sound system, no horn - - - all stock

having sad this I suspect you are correct - I think that when they designed that circuit they took it close to its limit without allowing for much if any head room - they were not thinking ahead to allow for what end users would do - - heck they even have "fog light" wires down front that if used will add right on to this very circuit

I also suspect that people like me who have made no changes to increase the draw on this circuit are probably perfectly safe ad are unlikely to have any problems so long as we continue to leave it electrically stock with no additional draw

You are probably correct....but if they just do an “inspection” and see nothing wrong....it sounds like they won’t do the recall. So are they really doing you a favor? I suspect an end to the J Case configuration...in the near future. Plus the addition of an extra circuit.....if they don’t do it for every new slingshot they might offer a “Polaris accessory” auxiliary electrical circuit powered directly from the battery.

I’ve added a 100 amp circuit with a multi tap hot buss to mine to power my 60 amp neutrino and other things....

I don’t plan on adding anything else to the chassis circuit, especially now. I probably already pushed my luck with the lights I have added. Any addition lights will be on my heavy duty key on circuit....

Anyone from this point on, should seriously consider adding an additional fuse box powered directly from the battery for all accessories. If you accidentally burn up your wiring harness you’ll have big trouble.

Quote from Bigdog

You are probably correct....but if they just do an “inspection” and see nothing wrong....it sounds like they won’t do the recall. So are they really doing you a favor? I suspect an end to the J Case configuration...in the near future. Plus the addition of an extra circuit.....if they don’t do it for every new slingshot they might offer a “Polaris accessory” auxiliary electrical circuit powered directly from the battery.

I’ve added a 100 amp circuit with a multi tap hot buss to mine to power my 60 amp neutrino and other things....

I don’t plan on adding anything else to the chassis circuit, especially now. I probably already pushed my luck with the lights I have added. Any addition lights will be on my heavy duty key on circuit....

Anyone from this point on, should seriously consider adding an additional fuse box powered directly from the battery for all accessories. If you accidentally burn up your wiring harness you’ll have big trouble.

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if you read the pdf posted by Rab its rather interesting - first they are supposed to inspect and check for damage, then if no damage is found they are to proceed with the recall fix and install the new inline fuse holder and fuse

the interesting thing in the PDF instructions is that is says if damage is found they are to stop work, and get warranty work approval from Polaris before preceding

Sounds to me as if they find damage then they would have to replace the J-Block and before they can do this, which is not a normal part of the recall fix, they need to see if its covered by warranty and at this point might check to see if the damage was caused by the addition of aftermarket electronics and / or lighting being added to the circuit

if you have not already done so you really should read the recall PDF that Rab posted - it goes into great detail about what to do and not to do if damage is or isnt found

from the PDF

Quote from Edward Neal

from the PDF

Sounds like its not going to be a fix it while you wait......

When I opened that link I got 10 pages of Chinese

Quote from Edward Neal

Sounds to me as if they find damage then they would have to replace the J-Block and before they can do this, which is not a normal part of the recall fix, they need to see if its covered by warranty and at this point might check to see if the damage was caused by the addition of aftermarket electronics and / or lighting being added to the circuit

if you have not already done so you really should read the recall PDF that Rab posted - it goes into great detail about what to do and not to do if damage is or isn't found.

Agreed! It all sounds perfectly logical to me?

Bill

Quote from hunter

Sounds like its not going to be a fix it while you wait......

the PDf says they are allowed 30 minutes to do the job - - this assumes there is no damage to the J-Block

I would think this should easily be able to be done as we wait

Quote from Bigdog

When I opened that link I got 10 pages of Chinese

try opening it on a computer instead of your phone - and computer should be able to open the pdf

FZ-1 Accessory Fuse Block for the Polaris Slingshot Glad I added this to mine and inline fuse right off the battery to power it up. Being a retired Mechanic all my connections and terminal ends are soldered and heat shrink.

Quote from Bigdog

One of the biggest projects I did to my house when I bought it was to upgrade the electrical panel. It only had 8 circuits. The new panel now has 34 plus a few sub panels.... I broke up the existing circuits. I put each refrigerator on it’s own circuit. The dishwasher, garbage disposal, microwaves, furnace, washer and dryer, kitchen counter, bathrooms, driveway, garage, tool room, each bedroom, indoor fish pond, outdoor fish ponds, shed, pavilion, deck have their own circuits.

Knowing now there is an inherent problem with our slingshots adding anything electrical without adding extra fuse boxes with separate power feeds is asking for trouble...the chassis circuit needs to be broken up.....if not that, then the load taken off it with added circuits....

We do have an open key on....10 amp circuit....the fog light circuit.

Don’t be this guy...

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I am sorry, but WTF does your AC panel have to do with the DC fuse block on our slingshots . Just trying to make it transfer over?????????