check engine code 65723 2

  • i know this check engine code is related to the camshaft exhaust actuator solenoid but i just replaced this about a week about put about 500 miles on the sling in that week and now the light is on again. anyone know what can be all of a sudden ruining these sensors on me. I'm running alpha forged motor with alpha top mount and have yellow and green spring in wastgate seeing like 12psi's. only thing i have changed recently is springs in wastegate was running red and natural before this and never had to replace these. the first one went bad while i was in reverse and had a little back fire and 2 seconds later light was flashing. any one have any ideas . i also replaced the intake side as well ?( . as you can read below i was corrected to what code that sensor actually belonged to i was just a little confused

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    Edited once, last by jluna317 ().

  • They generally don't fail. They will fake you off and throw a code and then for no reason they will run perfect.... The reason I say this is because I have had that code before and changed both of mine. (both because they were fairly cheap and I just told them to get me both at oriley's auto)


    Then drove around for a few hours and the check engine code went out. (proof that it was bad) (I thought)


    Then here is where it gets goofy.....After talking to Dave at DDM he told me to check the little filter on the bottom of them and clean them and put them back in. I looked at the old actuators and they were clean so I just swapped them back out and NEVER had the check engine light to come back on... They are in it today....


    One thing to watch for is the weight of the engine oil.. I am guessing you run the correct 5w30 that we all do so that probably isn't the issue. And one other thing to check is the actual plug on the top of them. I have had mine snapped perfectly down on them and one of them (cant remember) threw a code. I unplugged them and replugged them and after about 5 start and shut off cycles the check engine went away...



    Just a few ideas to check....

  • Wait I just went back and re read your post... That code is the cam shaft position sensor on the back of the engine block... That isn't the actuator on the top of the engine .


    Someone let me know if I am correct because the book is out in the shop and I am already in bed.


    I dont want to poop on your party yet because if it is that sensor and I am right there can be a really terrible reason that it is going thru them.


    So before I make you get the Rolaids out let confirm that the code is in fact the cam angle sensor.

  • And the terrible news was that this happens (I'm not saying this is your issue..... ) But it happens when the timing is 1 tooth off... It will randomly give that code. It will run pretty much flawless even if it is a single tooth off.


    Then it will just throw that code and sometimes it would run like crap afterwards till you shut it off and restart.. Then it will run perfect till it decides to look at that sensor and then it will light the check engine light and start running a bit crappy.


    The running crappy is an occasional thing. Sometime it keeps running ok and just lights up the check engine light. But more often than not it runs a bit crappy once the light it on.


    This may not be you situation at all. Just wanted you to be aware that it can happen for this reason... I would definitely change the back two cam position sensors first... I know its just one of them but change them both....

  • @rabtech thanks for the response weird because my sling did exactly what you said i replaced the exhaust and intake thinking it was them and @Turbosling telling me he has had a few go bad. but i swapped them out check engine light went away road like 500 miles now its back on. I've probably driven about 3000 miles on this new motor but I'm running rotella 5w40 its what henry suggests. I'm just wondering why the check engine light went away when i replaced them but now its back ? wondering if its the heat the top mount is producing maybe melted a wire ill have to double check .i notice my sling is a little sluggish. another thing thats happening is my shift light on the scg1 is lighting up to early when this check engine light is on . i have to shut off sling and restart and that usually fixes the shift light.like as if something is sending a false signal yo scg 1 telling it to shift at like 3-4000k instead of 5500 what i have it set at

  • Ok. Change those two cam position sensors. They are both on the back side of the engine. They should be fairly inexpensive. And you can get them from any autoparts store.


    Like I said it's not the actuators that are in the front of the valve cover. These are the two that are on the backside toward the firewall.

  • My first SS had this happen in the first 600 miles.
    Purchased both and install. Never had the code again. When I went in for warranty for the stalling-die troubles I reinstalled the OE because I didn't want them using it as as excuse. Code never returned even after switching back the the original set that had cause the code in the first place.... :00000003:

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    Edited once, last by Ruptured Duck ().

  • so got code again but like after the first time it was about another 3-4000 miles and have video of how it drives.wont let me really go past 3000 rpms and feels like all boost want to kick in at that point. if you listen very well at the begggining of first video you can kinda here a cut with a like with like a little metal clunk my gauge isn't in video but it tells me afr is in the 9's when its happening