I bought it to drive it hard. If he messed it up it could be fixed or replaced. You guys are family! Plus I can always look at my little slingshot!
Aw shucks Brody... I was just giving @SlingRider a hard time for leaving the burned wire smell in the shop!
Also because he put away my tools and his parts.... now I can't find anything! 
lol tripod I have been on the forum with you since it started (djdad) lost my password. no short guys. I found the answer on the forum searching the code it kicked. we are not the first. Polaris will tell you we are but we are not.
Damn it! KNEW I recognized that avatar!
Evidently you have not seen Jim drive!!!! LOL!
Driving Miss Daisy mean anything? That is why he painted the red one yellow.
the issue is the 50amp fuse is good. the 30 amp wire is good, but the 10 amp connector gets hot and melts the plastic until it gets in places becoming an insulator.
Driving Miss Daisy mean anything? That is why he painted the red one yellow.
He painted it Yellow because it is faster.
the issue is the 50amp fuse is good. the 30 amp wire is good, but the 10 amp connector gets hot and melts the plastic until it gets in places becoming an insulator.
yes! Absolutely correct!
the issue is the 50amp fuse is good. the 30 amp wire is good, but the 10 amp connector gets hot and melts the plastic until it gets in places becoming an insulator.
Is this for real? A 10 amp connector? Who determined this? The J Case has 50 and 40 fuses in it, just wondering how it was built with 10 amp connections? Mind you I have not looked at it myself either.
The spades inside the fuse box are pretty thin and looks to be the reason for the melting. The feed wires look to be 12 or 10 gauge.... no bigger than 10. Three wires enter the rear of the fuse box which is fed directly from the positive battery terminal. 50-50-40 inside. 40 is ignition I believe.
@mniron , your schematic shows two 40 amp fuses... that is not what I found.
LOL, not surprised, just goes with the inconsistencies of these things!
The spades inside the fuse box are pretty thin and looks to be the reason for the melting. The feed wires look to be 12 or 10 gauge.... no bigger than 10. Three wires enter the rear of the fuse box which is fed directly from the positive battery terminal. 50-50-40 inside. 40 is ignition I believe.
Even though 10 and 12 gauge wires seem small for the fuse sizes they would be consistent with the guidelines for chassis wiring. Obviously something is amiss to have meltdowns, a poor termination or loose connection point(spade?) are the most common failures next to over amperage. The wire size is normally increased in gauge for motor loads. The chart below is a reference.
contact spades were tight.... still are. If too thin for amp load, wouldn't they heat up? Spades (contacts) seem to me to be the weak link.
contact spades were tight.... still are. If too thin for amp load, wouldn't they heat up? Spades (contacts) seem to me to be the weak link.
The J Case should have been designed to carry the current so the blades should be properly sized. I have to believe the spade size is not the issue as much as the tension on the spades for contact or simply undersized wire. If the tension is low on the blades, then it is in essence a loose connection. This is the same thing that happens to cord and plug connections we use everyday, an outlet that burns up usually is not over amperage but rather a poor connection or tension on the blades(cord plug). Loose connections cause heat to the point of destruction and are brought on faster from heavily loaded circuits and not necessarily an overloaded circuit which would trip or blow the circuit. This YouTube is a little dorky but they do make a tester for our wall outlets;
What happened with the lighting circuits that caused the meltdown of the fuse and relay box was a poorly design circuit which overloaded the wires causing the heating and then meltdown. The solution was to provide an added circuit wire for the lights and divide the circuit by adding a relay. This could be the case with the J Case, larger conductors would still reduce the heating from higher amperages.
It would be interesting if there is others that have the same problem and also what the findings are.
I would have thought the same but the fuses were tight on the spades.... no wiggle at all. With the JBox out, I fitted a fuse in and contact seems solid.
The heat Melted the side of the fuse to the box and continued to the back of the connector.
The fuse was brittle from overheating and all the surrounding plastic was in pieces.
Since Jim said water was present there could have been a direct short to the mounting bolt. I assume fuse blew but water continued contact.
Really not sure why only top 50 fuse was affected as the lower fuses, wires and connectors looked fine.
Seems three separate in line waterproof maxi fuses would solve the issue eliminating the JBox feed and spade contact issues.
8 Ga coming from Positive feeds left JBox spades and fuses make up the three circuits.
I would also gain access to that harness all the way up front. There is a chance the wire has chafed/pinched and the fuse failed.
I would also gain access to that harness all the way up front. There is a chance the wire has chafed/pinched and the fuse failed.
I hate Chafe
