Need help! Assault Hub won't budge!

    Sorry MIM, just caught that. If you dont care about the hub, and heat is scary or doesn't work. You could cut it in half with a dremel w/wheel bit. If you cut down both sides almost as deep as the spline would be, a screw driver driven into your cut should crack it off and leave the spline unscathed. You could use a hole saw to core it, so you would only have to dremel the core that is on the spline. Straddling the core you shouldnt need the center guide bit in your hole saw.


    I run into stuff like this at work, but it's larger stuff and I use a sawzall (recipricating saw). Your spot is too tight for that.

    Thanks @BryanL! I've been hitting it with a rubber mallet pretty hard as well because I don't want to scratch the hub. . . It's supposed to be going to someone else. . . But I'll try that again once I get the grade 8 stuff Slingrazor mentioned.


    @WOLF, that definitely seems like the last resort, but if it comes to that, I'll just leave the damn assault hub on. . . Thanks anyway for chiming in! Need all the help I can get.

    To be sure we're on the same track, I'm talking about hitting the head of the puller bolt, not the hub. Use a real hammer and whack the end of the bolt once it's good and tight. If that doesn't work you'll learn to love that hub. ;)

    Grade 5 will work too. It is not that easy to find grade 8 or even grade 5 in 10-32 screws. You might need to go to a place like an industrial supply house, like Grainger or Fastenal. Try something other than a rubber mallet too. I have a small hammer that has screw on caps, one side is hard plastic. It won't scratch or damage when it hits, but it transfers more of the jarring force to break it free. Like stated from others, be sure to have the screws long enough to get a full thread, then tighten the puller screw down as tight as you dare without damaging something. If you tap the main pulling screw with something harder than a rubber mallet (ball peen hammer should do the trick, like BryonL was talking about) , I'm sure it will give.

    Quote from Goats_Hogs

    Grade 5 will work too. It is not that easy to find grade 8 or even grade 5 in 10-32 screws. You might need to go to a place like an industrial supply house, like Grainger or Fastenal. Try something other than a rubber mallet too. I have a small hammer that has screw on caps, one side is hard plastic. It won't scratch or damage when it hits, but it transfers more of the jarring force to break it free. Like stated from others, be sure to have the screws long enough to get a full thread, then tighten the puller screw down as tight as you dare without damaging something. If you tap the main pulling screw with something harder than a rubber mallet (ball peen hammer should do the trick, like BryonL was talking about) , I'm sure it will give.

    This is correct. HAMMER= steel / MALLET= rubber. Hitting the puller bolt or the center bolt with a loose nut to avoid thread damage is essentially helping push the steering shaft back from the hub. Once it moves at all it will come off.

    Machinist's Workshop Magazine (March/April or May/June, 2007) actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist, Bud Baker.


    They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.


    *Penetrating oil ..... Average load*


    None ..................... 516 pounds
    WD-40 .................. 238 pounds
    PB Blaster ............. 214 pounds
    Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds
    Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
    ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds


    The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch, and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.

    Okay guys, haven't gotten the grade 5 or 8 fasteners , but tried hitting the crap out of the center pull bolt from the wheel puller, once it was as tight as I could get it (which was bending the washers), with a hammer and nothing!


    I was seriously giving it good whacks. . . I don't know what else to do? Just keep the damn assault hub?


    @BryanL, @Painter, @Goats_Hogs? ? ?


    I can try providing video in case anyone needs proof I'm not completely inept . . . ;(

    TravAZ on the other forum had the same problem, but he had used an impact wrench to put the hub on without lining up the splines properly. I don't think he fixed it yet. The other option you have is heat, but with all the plastic right behind the hub I wouldn't recommend it.


    Did you put the hub on?

    No @BryanL, this Sling was purchased used with the hub already on . . . It was tough to loosen the locking nut. . . Thinking it was overtorqued . Or maybe like you said , just put on improperly . I can tell you the wheels weren't straight when it was put on. Slightly off which I was hoping to fix as well.


    @TravAZ, any ideas?