Rabtech's A.D.D engine build. :-)

    Quote from kenny_h

    sellout.....

    Might as well address that comment....


    There are several reasons for letting DDM build the engine.


    1. DDM has a bulletproof reputation in building Ecotec engines....
    2. The had the ability and time to do the engine for me now.
    3. They answered every question I had about the build.
    4. The asked me how much power I wanted to make and said it would be good for that amount much and more
    5. I am logistically closer to DDM than any other builder. 4.5 hours to their doorstep.
    6. They matched a clutch system that would take all this power.

    Quote from MACAWS

    You really know how to talk dirty to a speed junkie.
    Is it an off the shelf build or something you specked out?
    Will they take any 2.4 as a core.
    Big question $$

    It is pretty much an "off the shelf" build that they do...
    Im sure they will take any LE5 or LE9 as long as its a running non damaged engine. I am using the engine from the Solstice as my core.
    I believe it is 3800.00 for them to hand you a turn key long block to bolt into the SS. I added some stuff such as a heavy clutch and haven't asked about the cost... Its one of those things you need if your going to up the power...


    I figure @Dave@DDMWorks will post in this thread now that I have made the announcement...


    Here is the description off their site at DDMWorks


    When you start to make more power with the stock engine you run the risk of having an engine failure. The Stock LE9 engine found in the Slingshot does not seem to take the same power as the older LE5 2.4L found in earlier GM vehicles like the Pontiac Solstice or Saturn Sky. If you are looking at exceeding stock power or just want the peace of mind knowing that your engine can take the abuse you are going to give it, our DDMWorks built engines are the best option. We have designed our DDMWorks built long blocks for performance, strength and reliability in your Slingshot and have been building the 2.4L since 2007. After building many of these engines we have done the research to build engines with the best parts to give you a engine that you can install and expect a long life from, along with high performance.
    We start by removing the cylinder head and inspecting it for any damage, then the head is completely dis-assembled by removing all valves, valve springs and retainers. The 3 mating surfaces are machined for a nice smooth surface, the cylinder head is thoroughly cleaned, pressure tested and then re-assembled with new valve guide seals.
    All of our engines start with either your stock block or a 2.4L LE5 core and are then completely disassembled and fully cleaned. The deck gets fully machined to give a smooth mating surface to the head, the rotating assembly is balanced and the engine is then re-assembled with the following new parts -


    - Full set of GM Main Bearings
    - Full set of GM Rod Bearings
    - GM 2.4L LE5 Head Gasket
    - GM Rear Main Seal
    - GM Timing Plate Cover Gasket
    - Qty. 20 GM Main Bolts
    - Qty. 10 GM Girdle Bolts
    - ARP Head Studs
    - Forged Rods (option of Molnar or Carillo)
    - Wiseco Pistons with Slick side coating, wrist pins, rings, locks @ 88.5mm bore
    - GM Timing Chain
    - GM Timing Chain Tensioner
    - GM Upper Timing Chain Guide
    - GM Slack Side Timing Chain Guide
    - GM Tension Side Timing Chain Guide
    - GM Valve Cover Gasket
    - GM Water Pump


    With this build you end up with an engine that can take the power you want to put down with the Slingshot in a package that comes to you ready to install in your ride. Have any questions about the build? Give us a call or send an email and we will be happy to point you in the right direction for the power and budget you have.

    Thanks


    I will follow your lead as always since you are my mentor. I think I may wait to see how you install goes and see what tips you may have. Will this be a lower compression set up with higher boost or just a beefier motor running what we have now?
    Will we need to retune with Bob?


    Sorry about all the questions but since I have run out of things to do to my SS and I can't paint it until my brother is done with the show circuit this is my next project.

    The more people I meet

    The more I love my Dog!

    Good choice. They do look like they know their way around the LE9. Its not a complex built aiming for 400hp.


    The price is right too, considering the amount of new parts they are putting in this thing.


    I would replace the valve springs too but thats just me.


    Inewton approved mod :)

    Vi Engineered Turbo (V-Mount)
    Forged LE9
    DDM Works Fuel Rail
    RRR Oil Catchcan
    UPLOK + UPGUARD
    Assault Hub / Steering wheel
    DDM Works short shifter
    PRP Shifter Boot
    Cipher Race Seats and 4 point harness
    XO Luxury Verona 20x12 Toyo R888 315/35r20, 19x9.5 Toyo R888 265/35R19
    and more...

    We are all looking forward to working with Rabtech on this build and it worked out well with an engine that we have coming through machine work now to fit into his timeframe. We do have some pictures of the engine that we disassembled for the build that we will be passing along and also some more pictures as the engine comes back together that I am sure will get shared with everyone.


    If you have any questions along the way, feel free to ask!
    Thanks again!
    Dave

    Dave


    Can we give you an engine at time of pick up to replace the block for what you are building or do we need to drop an engine off in advance to be built.


    If so what is an acceptable engine. I ask because I have 2 lined up I am going to look at I think they are LE 9's
    I will be out of town for a week so I hope at least one of them is there when I get back


    What is you core charge if we do not bring an engine to swap?


    Thanks

    The more people I meet

    The more I love my Dog!

    Quote from MACAWS

    Can we give you an engine at time of pick up to replace the block for what you are building or do we need to drop an engine off in advance to be built.


    If so what is an acceptable engine. I ask because I have 2 lined up I am going to look at I think they are LE 9's
    I will be out of town for a week so I hope at least one of them is there when I get back


    What is you core charge if we do not bring an engine to swap?

    We can build up your engine or a core that we get here. If we are building up a core, we charge $600 for the core and when you pickup the engine and drop off a good core, we just refund that $600 back.


    Any 2.4L Ecotec is acceptable, LE5, LE9 or even the LAT. The LAF and LEA are not compatible. Mileage is not important since basically everyone gets replaced in the engine. Some of the earlier Malibu engines have a weird EGT valve on the side so the cylinder head is a little different, but it will still work also. If you have any questions, just shoot a link over to us and we can let you know if it is compatible or not.


    Core charge is $600.


    Hope everyone has a great weekend and be safe out there!

    Quote from rabtech

    Over the 44 years I have been alive I have learned a few things. One of those lessons is pretty straight forward. If you know someone that has a proven track record in building engines. And your about to dump thousands of dollars into an engine. You probably need to let the person that can do it blindfolded build that engine.


    I absolutely don't want to try to prove anything by building it myself. I had much rather be having fun making videos of me roasting back tires. And not pulling an engine out because I didn't know the secret formula of the Ecotec timing method.


    I just want to say thanks to all the DDM family for making my life much easier and especially @Dave@ddmworks.com for his time and patience while working with me.


    Mhm! Late night talks...

    Hey Rab , Who is doing the head work for you ?

    Quote from Wrenchmn

    Hey Rab , Who is doing the head work for you ?


    We start by removing the cylinder head and inspecting it for any damage, then the head is completely dis-assembled by removing all valves, valve springs and retainers. The 3 mating surfaces are machined for a nice smooth surface, the cylinder head is thoroughly cleaned, pressure tested and then re-assembled with new valve guide seals.

    I had a few ask me via PM and text why i wasn't changing the valve springs...


    If it needed a set of valve spring I would do it.. Your talking about a couple hundred dollars in the scheme of things... . For the rpm IM RUNNING their isn't any gains to be had by putting heavier springs or cams into this engine.. The only gain would be if you were going to try to turn rpm in excess of 7500... My rev limiter is at 6500. So it would never be an issue...


    When I am describing my engine spec everyone that reads this need to understand that I'm not trying to make an indy car engine... Its going to be a beast with 13 to 14.5 PSI of boost... I shift at about 6000 rpm so there is no danger of me exceeding the stock springs.


    Here is another way of looking at this.... Dave is aware of my SS's presence in the community ..He is also aware of how hard I run it... If it needed springs to keep it safe I'm absolutely positive he would slap a set in it....

    Robert, sure is nice dealing with a great company and person like Dave. You place a call to him and it gets answered and he takes the time to answer your questions on the spot (or calls you back if he needs to get the answer to you). Too bad you you don't try to run his supercharger in tandem with your turbo.

    Nobody gets outta here ALIVE