My question is, does the drive shaft remove like a car's drive shaft? If you undo the ujoints bolts will the front slide out like it does on a car, or do you have to remove the blots also on the front of the drive shaft on the transmission.
Drive Shaft removal?
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I have not had it out yet, but I've looked at it. I'm sure all the drive train to the angle drive is standard, other than maybe a special short drive shaft. Looks to me like it will work just like a traditional rear wheel drive car.
@dangerdarrell has worked on taking a clutch out, but I think they went in from the engine bay side. Perhaps he would know....
@oneshot would definitely know....
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I have not had it out yet, but I've looked at it. I'm sure all the drive train to the angle drive is standard, other than maybe a special short drive shaft. Looks to me like it will work just like a traditional rear wheel drive car.
@dangerdarrell has worked on taking a clutch out, but I think they went in from the engine bay side. Perhaps he would know....
@oneshot would definitely know....
@Slingrazor and I changed some clutches but you have to pull the engine to do that. Transmission doesn't come out for that. Actually, you can't pull the trans without pulling the engine. As I understand it, there is a u-joint on one end and a cv joint on the other. Should be really easy to pull.
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Yes Sir, was asking if you can just undo the ujoints at the angle drive and pull the drive shaft out, like a regular vehicle, or do you have to undo the bolts also on the transmission.
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trooper I hope you don't have the same issue I have, crawled under our sling couple weeks ago to find this bolt backed off, the strange thing is it's tight as crap and I can't loosen nor tighten it...wondering if any one else has had this to happen.....
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Thank You very Much That helps a lot i need one of them books lol you guys are awesome
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No Sir I do not think so but i will look closer for sure now, reason i was asking is i am installing some toggle switches in my center console and crawled under the SS and noticed it would be so MUCH EASIER to install them if the drive shaft was removed.
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Pop the painted plastic pieces off the center console area. Then you will be able to snake wires everywhere.
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Pop the painted plastic pieces off the center console area. Then you will be able to snake wires everywhere.
This is the set up i have done, I went a head and built everything, thinking it would be easier this way instead of running each wire separate.
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I really don't understand why it would be that way on purpose trooper, maybe someone else could explain, my sling is a 2016. Built date 3-18-2016...
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It looks like they could have done a more even tightening job
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I'll be crawling under mine shortly to mess with the e brake cable adjustment nuts....maybe I can get it to work again.. I look for other out of place stuff while I'm there..
If it falls on my head and nobody's there will it still make a squishing sound..
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It looks like they could have done a more even tightening job
I have never seen a UJoint strap that sat like that with a gap under it.
That would be something I would be taking a closer look at! -
@Slingrazor and I changed some clutches but you have to pull the engine to do that. Transmission doesn't come out for that. Actually, you can't pull the trans without pulling the engine. As I understand it, there is a u-joint on one end and a cv joint on the other. Should be really easy to pull.
@JoeF. I think that's a shadow playing with our eyes. I have a chirping sound I need to check and see if it's coming from the u-joint. I cleaned the belt and pull and still have it. Don't want it to be the rear bearings. I also have a nice throughout bearing sound that happens at a given point in the clutch movement. Really hope I don't already have a bad throughout bearing. Still have over a year on the warranty but damn.
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I hope so!! I'm looking at it on my phone and bolt on right looks like it's backed off, or joint has something under it keeping from strap sitting flush on Yolk.
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I hope so!! I'm looking at it on my phone and bolt on right looks like it's backed off, or joint has something under it keeping from strap sitting flush on Yolk.
crap, nope you are correct about the backed out bolt.
I need to see if the old style straps will work. I never have liked this design.
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These straps are not machined. These are stamped. I wouldn't want them flush to the bolt surface. There is no way to gauge the actual torque force on the bearing cap, and that is what you are trying to hold. I would like it better if the gap were more even side to side with the bolts torqued (The OCD in me if nothing else). But in assembly, they likely start both and run one down then torque the other one to spec.
That would be my $.02 on it...
