Ross Racing pistons and 2.2L Eagle rods

  • Finally after so much waiting, time to start reassembling this engine.


    Pistons looks sweet :)



    Vi Engineered Turbo (V-Mount)
    Forged LE9
    DDM Works Fuel Rail
    RRR Oil Catchcan
    UPLOK + UPGUARD
    Assault Hub / Steering wheel
    DDM Works short shifter
    PRP Shifter Boot
    Cipher Race Seats and 4 point harness
    XO Luxury Verona 20x12 Toyo R888 315/35r20, 19x9.5 Toyo R888 265/35R19
    and more...

  • Just FYI, I found that the 2.2L rods has a binding issue on the 4 piston (the one closer to the flywheel).


    There is a bump in the block for the crank sensor bolt. Its very thick for no apparent reason, and it hits the rod:




    Its the bump you see on the left side of the image.
    Because I didn't want to take the engine appart, or out of the SS, what I did it get a long narrow cold chisel, and I chipped away at the bump until I got around 1/3 of an inch of clearance. Its hard to do, but it was the best way to do it, vs grinding that would have thrown aluminum all over the place, the chisel has the advantage of making big chunks that are easy to pick up after.


    This is the result, its not pretty but it works:

    Now the rod clears with plenty of space and the rebuild can continue :)

    Vi Engineered Turbo (V-Mount)
    Forged LE9
    DDM Works Fuel Rail
    RRR Oil Catchcan
    UPLOK + UPGUARD
    Assault Hub / Steering wheel
    DDM Works short shifter
    PRP Shifter Boot
    Cipher Race Seats and 4 point harness
    XO Luxury Verona 20x12 Toyo R888 315/35r20, 19x9.5 Toyo R888 265/35R19
    and more...

  • The Eagle 2.2 rods are larger at the big end than OEM rods.


    This is not an issue on the 3 other pistons, just on the 4th one where the side of the rod contacts the block right where the crankshaft sensor bolts.


    I assume that rods made for the 2.4 would not have this issue and would be narrower at the big end to clear the bump.


    If you look at the video I made (I know its dark), this is filmed looking down from the oil passage on top of the block, with the back light you can see that the block catches the edge of the rod. It doesn't require a lot of metal to be removed, but its enough to stop the engine rotation solid and well, I wouldn't even try to start it like that lol

    Vi Engineered Turbo (V-Mount)
    Forged LE9
    DDM Works Fuel Rail
    RRR Oil Catchcan
    UPLOK + UPGUARD
    Assault Hub / Steering wheel
    DDM Works short shifter
    PRP Shifter Boot
    Cipher Race Seats and 4 point harness
    XO Luxury Verona 20x12 Toyo R888 315/35r20, 19x9.5 Toyo R888 265/35R19
    and more...

  • @Speedr117 yes, I am not touching the rods.

    Vi Engineered Turbo (V-Mount)
    Forged LE9
    DDM Works Fuel Rail
    RRR Oil Catchcan
    UPLOK + UPGUARD
    Assault Hub / Steering wheel
    DDM Works short shifter
    PRP Shifter Boot
    Cipher Race Seats and 4 point harness
    XO Luxury Verona 20x12 Toyo R888 315/35r20, 19x9.5 Toyo R888 265/35R19
    and more...

  • @iNewton Here is a picture of the LE5 I am doing right now. Same Eagle rods but JE Pistons. This on has about a credit card thickness gap. The only difference I can see to make yours hit is if the wrist pin offset different. Do you know whether yours are offset or centered? If they are offset, do you know by how much? Also, I know you said you were not pulling the engine. If so, did you balance the rotating assembly?

  • @Bugzilla


    I don't think the pin is offset.


    I didn't get it balanced, the final weight of the pistons and rods is 1g lighter than my lightest oem parts, and my oem rods and pistons had 8g difference between the lightest and heavyest pistons and rods.


    If we where pushing redline, I would get it balanced but for 6000rpm (which I rarely hit because of tire spin in the first 3 gears.) with the weight difference I don't think it makes mich difference.


    This winter, I might decide to go all out and take the entire thing out, get it sleaved, balanced, remove the balance shafts, reaplace bearings with clevite, get a 2.0L head in the block, valves and spring, etc and get the redline bumped to 9000rpm, but that would require a standalone ecu and tuning also.


    i will se after this summer if I get tired of the power like it is now lol.

    Vi Engineered Turbo (V-Mount)
    Forged LE9
    DDM Works Fuel Rail
    RRR Oil Catchcan
    UPLOK + UPGUARD
    Assault Hub / Steering wheel
    DDM Works short shifter
    PRP Shifter Boot
    Cipher Race Seats and 4 point harness
    XO Luxury Verona 20x12 Toyo R888 315/35r20, 19x9.5 Toyo R888 265/35R19
    and more...

  • @iNewton


    I would still be worried about the balance. Its not all about overall weight. On the rods you have a big end and a little end weight. The Eagle rods weigh more on the big end then a factory rod. See attached picture. This one was ground down to get the big end weight down to what a factory rod is.


    As for your piston, if they do not have an offset pin, that explains why your rod hit. I have only used offset pin pistons in my builds. Helps keep skirt wear down.


  • Well,


    Just finished building the engine and reinstalled the entire turbo kit.


    First startup went well, gave it 4-5 10 sec starts with no coil plugged until I got 40 psi oil pressure on my gauge, the plugged in the coils and it started on the first turn.


    I was warned about piston noise on forged pistons, and tbh honest I was a bit stressed that something was loose or badly installed, but engine runs good, idles perfect, no hesitation, no oil burning, and on follwing startups where I let the engine build heat more, it starts to fade a lot.


    If it sunny tomorow, I might just take it for a spin and see how it goes on low load.


    Vi Engineered Turbo (V-Mount)
    Forged LE9
    DDM Works Fuel Rail
    RRR Oil Catchcan
    UPLOK + UPGUARD
    Assault Hub / Steering wheel
    DDM Works short shifter
    PRP Shifter Boot
    Cipher Race Seats and 4 point harness
    XO Luxury Verona 20x12 Toyo R888 315/35r20, 19x9.5 Toyo R888 265/35R19
    and more...

  • Glad to see it up and running! Always a good feeling. Any road test yet?


    So it has some piston slap going on at cold start? Do you know what your piston to wall clearance is? Also, what alloy are the pistons made out of?

  • Check and make sure there is oil flowing up to the lifters at idle. I personally didn't see this issue happen but I had heard someone who had the same noise and it was not oiling correctly until it was above idle.


    Seems like @funinthesun had that same noise. I can't remember exactly. But they had to change the valve Springs back to stock I believe.


    Like you have said, it may just be some natural slop somewhere but that sounds exactly like the one I heard. And it quiets down just like it did when you touch the gas.

  • Yup, that's the same noise. Not sure what caused it since I never got the correct answer. Went back to the stock valve springs and retainers, and the noise when away. We would have followed up on it, but that motor when to the big drag strip in the sky before we had a chance to find out why. If I had to do it all again, I would have just gone to the better rods and pistons, and left the compression and valve train alone.

    Nobody gets outta here ALIVE

  • Just listened to the video.... Not piston slap for sure. Sounds more like something with the timing chain. I would say pull the valve cover off and try to look down the front to see if the chain is still on the passengers side guide. There is a chance it is only halfway on the guide.


    Its not the valve springs or pistons. I have the same compression, bigger springs, big cams and mine is as quiet as a stock engine. Although it does idle at 1100 rpms which could change things up.

  • I hope @iNewton sees the replies in time. If someone knows him and can call and let him know that there may be something wrong and to check the forum it would be great. Just let us know you got him. I don't want anyone to spend money and it blow up because they couldn't get ahold of him. If that chain comes off it will definitely leave a mark. :(