So I've been having a wierd bogging issue , pretty much exactly like BKL described ...it would still pull hard , but really hesitated under cruising conditions (2500 to 3000 rpm). Took it to a friend's shop , we smoked it, fixed any leaks that we found , replaced The Purge canister because it seemed like it was sticking, still didn't fix the issue. He said without digital wrench he didn't feel comfortable just throwing parts at it. We tested the map sensor and everything checked out, but when I started it, the check engine light came on , code 106 which is an air pressure malfunction...so I thought it must be the map sensor...put a new one in this morning , took it for a drive, didna couple hard pulls, pretty much ran the same, but on my last pull, the engine made a wierd sound and then white smoke ...pulled it into the house and it was sounding like a go kart ...gonna have the compression tested on Tuesday...but at this point , am I better off looking for a used motor or repairing this motor? I'm done with the turbo (and at this point, the sling)...just want to get it running so I can sell it or trade it in....sorry for the long post. I have a hahn stage 2x by the way.
Think I blew my engine
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If you can find someone that wants to put a built motor in a sling, then it could be a win win for you and the buyer...
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You may have a bad seal and bearing in the turbo. That would account for the white smoke and poor running.
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If you can find someone that wants to put a built motor in a sling, then it could be a win win for you and the buyer...
Yea that'll be like finding a needle in a haystack lol
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You may have a bad seal and bearing in the turbo. That would account for the white smoke and poor running.
Its been running bad for a while...white smoke just happened today.
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So I've been having a wierd bogging issue , pretty much exactly like BKL described ...it would still pull hard , but really hesitated under cruising conditions (2500 to 3000 rpm). Took it to a friend's shop , we smoked it, fixed any leaks that we found , replaced The Purge canister because it seemed like it was sticking, still didn't fix the issue. He said without digital wrench he didn't feel comfortable just throwing parts at it. We tested the map sensor and everything checked out, but when I started it, the check engine light came on , code 106 which is an air pressure malfunction...so I thought it must be the map sensor...put a new one in this morning , took it for a drive, didna couple hard pulls, pretty much ran the same, but on my last pull, the engine made a wierd sound and then white smoke ...pulled it into the house and it was sounding like a go kart ...gonna have the compression tested on Tuesday...but at this point , am I better off looking for a used motor or repairing this motor? I'm done with the turbo (and at this point, the sling)...just want to get it running so I can sell it or trade it in....sorry for the long post. I have a hahn stage 2x by the way.
First off, sorry to hear of your issues. If you have a Hahn 2X turbo system, then the map sensor you have was a 2 bar map sensor. Did you replace it with a 3 bar sensor? Also Hahn uses a modified end to the sensor so make sure you have your new one sealing properly.
I would pull the dipstick or oil filler cap to see if you have clean oil or a "milkshake" to verify coolant into the crankcase. Also check the condition of the spark plugs when you do the compression test. While it wouldn't cause the running issue, but make sure the crankcase filter isn't dirty. The crankcase needs to breath to keep the excess crankcase pressures to suck oil into the combustion chambers to create the smoke you're talking about. You can also remove the change pipe from the turbo to the intercooler and see if you have any oil inside that would indicate either a turbo issue or the crankcase filter restriction.
Sure hope you're not looking at a failure of the engine, but if so I'm sure someone here may have their original engine that they didn't use as a core when they went to a DDM built bullet.
Good luck and keep us informed
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Display MoreFirst off, sorry to hear of your issues. If you have a Hahn 2X turbo system, then the map sensor you have was a 2 bar map sensor. Did you replace it with a 3 bar sensor? Also Hahn uses a modified end to the sensor so make sure you have your new one sealing properly.
I would pull the dipstick or oil filler cap to see if you have clean oil or a "milkshake" to verify coolant into the crankcase. Also check the condition of the spark plugs when you do the compression test. While it wouldn't cause the running issue, but make sure the crankcase filter isn't dirty. The crankcase needs to breath to keep the excess crankcase pressures to suck oil into the combustion chambers to create the smoke you're talking about. You can also remove the change pipe from the turbo to the intercooler and see if you have any oil inside that would indicate either a turbo issue or the crankcase filter restriction.
Sure hope you're not looking at a failure of the engine, but if so I'm sure someone here may have their original engine that they didn't use as a core when they went to a DDM built bullet.
Good luck and keep us informed
Yea I used a 2 bar map sensor...got it on Amazon....ac Delco , and the part number matched the old one. I pulled the spark plugs , one has oil, the one closest to the front of the sling. Haven't checked the oil yet....I'll check the charge pipes as well... hopefully it's just the rings... appreciate everyone's input
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Check the two map sensors and you'll see the replacement one has a different end than the one from Hahn. Hahn modifies his with an aluminum bushing. Not sure if the stock one is going to seal tightly into the grommet he uses
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Check the two map sensors and you'll see the replacement one has a different end than the one from Hahn. Hahn modifies his with an aluminum bushing. Not sure if the stock one is going to seal tightly into the grommet he uses
Yea I swapped out the bushing ...1 of the o rings was reusable...the other one was deteriorated pretty badly....won't ever know if that was the problem since my dumbass didn't give the ecm a chance to relearn any parameters...
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Sorry to hear about the engine, defintiely get a compression and leak down test on it and let us know if you have any questions about what you find. Oil on one spark plug is usually not a good thing to see though. Was the spark plug gap still correct or did the electrode get closed up to the ground strap on that cylinder?
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Definitely curious about what you find caused the issue. Were you running a boost and or afr gauge?
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Also, the white smoke typically means coolant is getting into the cylinder(s), make sure to check your coolant level, if it is low or the tank is empty, the most common cause we see is a crack in the cylinder wall, which allows coolant to enter the cylinder. A bore scope will also give you some more information on what is going on if you have one of those.
Hope that helps,
Dave
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Definitely curious about what you find caused the issue. Were you running a boost and or afr gauge?
Yea I have the aem failsafe...it was bouncing all over the place at idle and when cruising ...when boosting it would be in the low 12s, high 11s, but at idle and cruising , it would shoot all the way up to 18 and then drop back to 14
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Also, the white smoke typically means coolant is getting into the cylinder(s), make sure to check your coolant level, if it is low or the tank is empty, the most common cause we see is a crack in the cylinder wall, which allows coolant to enter the cylinder. A bore scope will also give you some more information on what is going on if you have one of those.
Hope that helps,
Dave
Yea, it's gap is closed on that spark plugs...didn't think to check the coolant level, I'll check it in a bit and update you guys... appreciate the help
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Also, the white smoke typically means coolant is getting into the cylinder(s), make sure to check your coolant level, if it is low or the tank is empty, the most common cause we see is a crack in the cylinder wall, which allows coolant to enter the cylinder. A bore scope will also give you some more information on what is going on if you have one of those.
Hope that helps,
Dave
Coolant level looks good
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Yea, it's gap is closed on that spark plugs...didn't think to check the coolant level, I'll check it in a bit and update you guys... appreciate the help
Do you have a picture of the spark plug from cylinder #1, the one closest to the front of the engine you said had oil on it?
The air/fuel ratios under boost sound about right, while not in boost the air/fuel will move around quite a bit, it should go very lean when letting off the gas and be around 14.7 +/-1 while idling and light cruise.
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Do you have a picture of the spark plug from cylinder #1, the one closest to the front of the engine you said had oil on it?
The air/fuel ratios under boost sound about right, while not in boost the air/fuel will move around quite a bit, it should go very lean when letting off the gas and be around 14.7 +/-1 while idling and light cruise.
Yea what u described is how it ran when it was running good...after the bogging issue, it was very erratic...at idle and while cruising, it really struggled to stay at 14...
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Oh who ever heard of blowing the #1 cylinder - that is unheard of... Sorry that is just an inside joke between me an Dave!
the smoke could be from oil not draining back into the engine we have seen that before on that set up before.
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Yea what u described is how it ran when it was running good...after the bogging issue, it was very erratic...at idle and while cruising, it really struggled to stay at 14...
That cylinder most likely has a piece of the piston that has come off, typically because of heat in the cylinder causing the upper compression ring to touch and pop a piece of the piston off. If you have a bore scope, look in the cylinder especially around where the valve reliefs are machined into the pistons. When the piece comes off it typically bounces around a little bit inside the cylinder and causes damage, then gets kicked out the exhaust and probably went through the turbine on the turbo and out the exhaust. That all happens really quickly. A lot of times when that happens it will crack the cylinder wall and like Kyle D if that happened, that block is a really big paper weight at that point. Swap in another stock engine and either get the tune fixed for the Hahn kit, or if you are planning to sell the Slingshot, move on. If you need help getting the Hahn kit to run right, let us know, we have a fix that makes that kit run well Funinthesun has one we worked on.
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Sounds like the perfect time for one of your motors Dave 🤪
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