Hahn Turbo – Installation, support and general comments

  • cobra66man
    That is what I thought too. In the packet of stuff he gave me were two long usb cables. I figured one was for the portfueler and the other for the AEM failsafe gauge. I asked him if I needed to remove the radio to hook up the usb cable and he said no that he would call me to explain. That was on June 30th. Still waiting. I will just pull the radio out and see what is behind there.
    Thanks for responding.

  • The USB cable for the WBF. I have mine coiled up in the engine compartment so I can get to it easily. If you look at the two USB supplied, one is a standard USB for the FIC. The other should be a USB extension cord (USB male on one side and female on the other side) so you can run it longer distances.

    :00000436:
    Success is a lousy teacher. It seduces smart people into thinking they can't lose. - Bill Gates

  • I apologize for bringing up the subject of Hanh Racecraft. I know everyone is tired of that name but I need some advice.
    As you know, Bill did the install of the kit plus the portfueler and AEM failsafe gauge. I thought it would be cool to download the gauge logs and just see what is going on. I have no intention of messing with the portfueler but thought having the usb cable connected would be handy if for some reason down the road I would need a different shop to work on it.
    I have been trying to get him to contact me since June 30th with no luck.
    I found the usb for the gauge tucked behind the radio and routed it to the engine bay. I keep getting a logger not detected error message when connected to my laptop. So not even sure if either one is even enabled for data logging.
    Anyway, I guess my question is, do I really need to data log anyway and should I just forget about it? I am so pissed that a company that has been in business for 30 years would treat customers this poorly. I spent nearly $6000.00 and waited almost 3 months for this.

  • I apologize for bringing up the subject of Hanh Racecraft. I know everyone is tired of that name but I need some advice.
    As you know, Bill did the install of the kit plus the portfueler and AEM failsafe gauge. I thought it would be cool to download the gauge logs and just see what is going on. I have no intention of messing with the portfueler but thought having the usb cable connected would be handy if for some reason down the road I would need a different shop to work on it.
    I have been trying to get him to contact me since June 30th with no luck.
    I found the usb for the gauge tucked behind the radio and routed it to the engine bay. I keep getting a logger not detected error message when connected to my laptop. So not even sure if either one is even enabled for data logging.
    Anyway, I guess my question is, do I really need to data log anyway and should I just forget about it? I am so pissed that a company that has been in business for 30 years would treat customers this poorly. I spent nearly $6000.00 and waited almost 3 months for this.

    I wish i could help as i have bought all the same stuff as you buts its not installed at the moment. I think @SaltyClownNY or @Casey_SS might be able to help?

  • Yo, @sharps4065, sorry to hear you are having issues. PM me if you need to call me. Couple of things. One, which logs are you trying to download? There is the FIC logs and then there are the WBF logs. The FIC not sure you will get anything from. The USB for that plugs into the side of it and you may not have had the cable installed for it. The WBF has a USB as part of it. It comes with an extension cable for it as well.


    Two things to note. My USB cable for the FIC was bad from the vendor. It refused to connect and kept saying it was off line. I stole the USB cable from another device and it connected immediately. Still have to tell it to connect, but was easy. The WBF was easy as well and recognized immediately. You needed 3 different software from AEM though.


    I have NO clue how tomorrow is going to go, but I'll see what I can do if you need help. No bigy. Just PM and I'll provide my phone and you can txt me for timing.

    :00000436:
    Success is a lousy teacher. It seduces smart people into thinking they can't lose. - Bill Gates

  • SaltyClownNY
    I really appreciate the offer. I am not all that interested in downloading data from the FIC. Just wanted it available in case it was needed. What I really wanted was to download the Failsafe gauge data to just play around with it. I am retired and usually have all day free. So please at your convenience.
    I am a little forum challenged so don't know how to pm. Hope this is ok.

  • I apologize for bringing up the subject of Hanh Racecraft. I know everyone is tired of that name but I need some advice.
    As you know, Bill did the install of the kit plus the portfueler and AEM failsafe gauge. I thought it would be cool to download the gauge logs and just see what is going on. I have no intention of messing with the portfueler but thought having the usb cable connected would be handy if for some reason down the road I would need a different shop to work on it.
    I have been trying to get him to contact me since June 30th with no luck.
    I found the usb for the gauge tucked behind the radio and routed it to the engine bay. I keep getting a logger not detected error message when connected to my laptop. So not even sure if either one is even enabled for data logging.
    Anyway, I guess my question is, do I really need to data log anyway and should I just forget about it? I am so pissed that a company that has been in business for 30 years would treat customers this poorly. I spent nearly $6000.00 and waited almost 3 months for this.

    @sharps4065 I would not apologize at all!


    Read at your own risk



    The WBFS has a USB connection, with the free software from AEM you can setup the gauge to display in different colors depending upon conditions. You an also hook up an alarm of sorts if the the AFR gets to lean (High number), or rich (Low number) This could be blowing a horn, flashing a light, you could even hook up a wire to shock you ass! Currently there is no good method that I"m aware of to cut boost.


    The other thing you can to is do download the WBFS logs, again using AEM free software. After you download the log you can analyze it. Or post for someone here to take a look at.


    There is a log that is in the AEM FIC/6 (PortFueler), the log as far as I know cannot be viewed. I tried. They do make software specifically for analyzing the log file from the FIC, but it's very outdated and a pain in the ass. I don't believe they sell many FIC's anymore, if you look over their forum regarding the FIC you'll see what I mean. I talked to them about the FIC and they've not really done anything with it in years. The FIC log and be reviewed in a spreadsheet format with Excel after you import it.


    If I can be of any assistance to you or anyone else, I'll be happy to help. But please don't apologize about a business that does not respect you and the $6,000 dollars you spent with him, to nor even get back to you to answer a simple question.

    John
    2017 SL LE Midnight Cherry
    :COILOVERSS::TURBOSS::MOTOROILSS::FILTERSS::COLDAIRSS::DONKEYSS:

  • Casey_SS I was able to download the data files from the failsafe gauge thanks to SaltyClownNY. I just need to figure out how to use the AEM data software. I am not to interested in the FIC data.
    I appreciate the offer to help.
    I fell hook,line and sinker for Bill's b/s on the portfueler. I should have done my homework. With his lack of customer service, any future problems with his portfueler could be troublesome to find someone to work on it. I have to admit it runs damn good now so just cross that bridge when I come to it.
    Again, thanks for the offer to help.

  • .


    ........


    ....... angel-squared


    .

    :REDSS: The ghost of SLingshot past ......

  • Casey_SS I was able to download the data files from the failsafe gauge thanks to SaltyClownNY. I just need to figure out how to use the AEM data software. I am not to interested in the FIC data.
    I appreciate the offer to help.
    I fell hook,line and sinker for Bill's b/s on the portfueler. I should have done my homework. With his lack of customer service, any future problems with his portfueler could be troublesome to find someone to work on it. I have to admit it runs damn good now so just cross that bridge when I come to it.
    Again, thanks for the offer to help.

    I have a template I can post for you to make it easier to review the data.


    I may possibly next year just bite the bullet and go with a Haltech and eliminate the FIC. I should have done more research into the FIC. It does run very good at this point but tuning might be a problem in the future.


    Bill was a hell of a salesman, in constant contact prior to laying down the $$$$


    In some ways I wish I followed the KISS technique to keep it simple. Having so many points of possible failure kind of scares me:

    • FIC failure
    • Power failure to FIC
    • Vacuum line to FIC, which is "T" with WBFS get's a hole or comes loose the FIC will not know to add fuel for boost
    • More of Bill's harness falls apart and the secondary injectors don't get a signal and goes lean

    Now the FIC intake could still be used with MELFI Bob's tune, just move the secondary injectors to primary position and move the primary to secondary to block the hole and run Bob's tune. But you still have the problem of; are the secondary injectors really flow matched, Bill says they are. I questioned him and he was not able to offer proof other then saying they were / are for his word. I spoke to Bob in Maggie Valley about moving the injectors and running his tune.


    I believe Haltech, but could be wrong will run 2 sets of injectors per cylinder, or just do as above for going Bob's tune.

    John
    2017 SL LE Midnight Cherry
    :COILOVERSS::TURBOSS::MOTOROILSS::FILTERSS::COLDAIRSS::DONKEYSS:

  • I agree 100% with you Casey_SS . Not knowing anything about boosting, I pretty much fell for Bill's sales pitch too. I was just looking to go faster not realizing that I was potentially giving up a lot of reliability. I guess I need to make sure my AAA is up to date.
    If we had a shop in the Orlando area, I would be almost tempted to start over, probably try the Haltech System. What is another couple thousand dollars.
    I am just going to enjoy it while it lasts.(If we ever get any decent weather here in Florida.)

  • If you guys didn't already realize from previous research/posts, Bill is an exceptional writer and maybe even a more impressive speaker. See an example below...


    http://www.dragbike.com/hahn-r…eaches-another-milestone/


    He is far from a dummy by anyone's standards. It is easy to understand why people would have been talked into something and regretted it later.


    On a different note, make sure you really research and understand the Haltech system. A lot of people talk about it and make it sound like it is much better and more capable than the stock ECM, which really isn't the case. You lose a lot of features when you switch and you need to pay someone to tune it correctly. Unless you are built motor with a custom boosted setup / high boost, it probably makes very little sense to go that route.

    Owner of Slingshot #263 that has some stock parts left on it. :D

  • Bill is an extremely intelligent person.

    John
    2017 SL LE Midnight Cherry
    :COILOVERSS::TURBOSS::MOTOROILSS::FILTERSS::COLDAIRSS::DONKEYSS:

  • Hey, what do you loose by going to Haltech? I was told that it was only the cruise control...

    :00000436:
    Success is a lousy teacher. It seduces smart people into thinking they can't lose. - Bill Gates

  • Cruise control for sure. Not sure where they are at on making sure the stability control and traction control work as intended. At one point it wasn't working, but I think they squared that all away.


    Here is a big question... What do you really gain from the Haltech? ;)

    Owner of Slingshot #263 that has some stock parts left on it. :D

  • Cruise control for sure. Not sure where they are at on making sure the stability control and traction control work as intended. At one point it wasn't working, but I think they squared that all away.


    Here is a big question... What do you really gain from the Haltech? ;)

    The ability to tweak your tune yourself. I understand that a lot of us don't need or want to touch the tune but there is a percentage of us out here that are comfortable making some tuning adjustments and don't like being at the mercy of 1 single guy in the whole world that can and will tune our bikes. I would gladly give the price of the Haltech to have the ability to tune my own ecm. Where are we if Bob gets hit by a train tomorrow. I'd just like to know that I have the ability to take my bike to the dyno on any given day and make adjustments. If they don't prove to be what I want then all I'd have to do is reflash it with the old program but as the situation stands if I want to make an adjustment I have to contact Bob, either directly or indirectly and ask if he is will to do the flash. Then remove the ecm and mail it to him and a few days or a week later get it back and install it and test it. If it ends up not being what I want then I can start the process all over again. It's not about the money spent it's about being able to do things for yourself in your own time frame without being at the mercy of someone else.


    Just to add to the above I would not want to have to start from scratch with an oem ecm and develop a tune. That would take way too much time and be way to dangerous. I have done that on dyno with the Kawasaki ecm with the guidance of a professional tuner. To attempt to do it any other way would have been disastrous. Tweaking a tune on the other hand is something a lot of us can/could do if we had the capability. Personally I'd want to do some data logging too!


    Just as soon as Haltech gets with the program and figures out how to keep the cruise control and the nanny's working then I will purchase one immediately but until then I will remain grateful that our friend Bob no only took the time to learn how to flash our ecm's but does it at a reasonable cost and in a timely manner. I just hope Bob watches out for those trains! :thumbup:


    Tim "Ghost" Ganey
    Winfield, Alabama
    205spam412spam2868

  • Just as soon as Haltech gets with the program and figures out how to keep the cruise control and the nanny's working then I will purchase one immediately but until then I will remain grateful that our friend Bob no only took the time to learn how to flash our ecm's but does it at a reasonable cost and in a timely manner. I just hope Bob watches out for those trains!

    As far as I know the only thing we don't have with the Haltech is cruise control.
    The way it was explained to me is that the Nannies always start by default. Even though we have a indicator light on that says differently dash they are working.
    On the bright side - I think we now have accurate fuel mileage which we did not have with the stock ECU after we changed injectors. Switching over to the Haltech did solve a lot of tuning issues we were having with my set up. I have driven pretty hard and as far as I cam tell there is no difference in the Nanny controls.

  • Since I removed my hood to install extended range hood hinges, I decided to install my Hahn CoolRam
    Airbox designed for my Hahn turbo. I previously had the Hahn CAI which uses the same box with the opening for the air tube on the driver side instead of the turbo's passenger side. While installing the new airbox, I realized the support brackets had not been made properly because the holes to connect the brackets to the airbox were not drilled properly. I drilled new holes so the airbox would mount lower with the front end of the airbox resting on the bracket behind the center headlights. When I went to test close the hood with the new hinges, I went to gently push down on the same locations I have always used to make sure the latches were securely closed and I was EXTREMELY unhappy when I saw I now have 2 star-shaped cracks in my hood paint from the edges of the airbox pushing up against the hood. :(X( Since I had my Slingshot painted yellow a couple years ago, the repair is not going to be easy or cheap and I am very displeased. :( I will be going out to try and trim some of the upper front corners off the airbox for additional clearance. Hahn supplies some heavy rubber molding that fits over the edges of the airbox and seals against the hood, but I hadn't installed that since I wanted to check clearances. My earlier Hahn CAI used the same rubber molding and it pushed up against the hood making it harder to latch, so I had used some foam molding designed to seal window AC units in place, but I hadn't yet installed the foam molding.


    UPDATE - After looking at my installation some more, it looks like I may have screwed up in that I secured the rear of the airbox first. Had I mounted the brackets to the airbox and then tried the install, I probably would have realized that the front edge of the airbox needs to be below and not resting on the edge of the frame behind the center headlights. That would have placed the CoolRam airbox low enough to not contact the hood! Looks like the cracks are indeed my fault for failing to think thru what I was doing and not taking the time to find the instructions I have for my turbo install. Of course, it being my fault just makes my day suck even more! At least I have an excuse to try repainting my Slingshot at some point (although I definitely lack @Painter's skills)!
    I now think the improper location of the airbox was also why my hood didn't seem to closing and latching properly. I had thought the hood had somehow gotten repositioned during the hood hinge install, but now it seems the problem was me having installed the airbox too high and basically causing the hood to get propped up! X(


    UPDATE # 2- Starting a new thread to post what I end up doing to get the hood closing properly.

    Edited 4 times, last by BKL ().