when I up shift into 3rd the gears grind....shift slowly or down shifting it does not grind...any ideas? 2016 with 14000 miles and has not been abused at all.
Transmission 3rd gear grinding gears
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When someone has a description like you gave it lends itself to think the synchronizer is messed up. However let's think positive thoughts. What about your clutch. Does it have a firm feel all the way when you push it in? I was thinking maybe it wasn't disengaging all the way and maybe 3rd may be more sensitive to that happening.
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Have you had the trans oil changed? If your running Royal Purple that's your problem.
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Don't be kicking the Royal Purple!
Some of us have it in ours.
But I would drain anything you may have changed to and just have a fresh fill of ACDELCO brand or Polaris brand transmission oil in it.
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clutch is same as always, doesn't start to disengage until depressed about 1 1/2 inches and feels firmish all the way down. Gear oil changed 6600 miles ago using oil from advanced auto with specs that polaris suggest. Not royal purple. Back in the day of manual transmissions the brass sync ring was the problem....just hopeful trans would not have to come out as motorcycle mechanics aren't experienced with this trans. Well s%/t.
You're right there, since the transmission can NOT be removed from the slingshot by itself. get ready for this - you have to pull the engine and transmission out as an assembly to service the clutch or remove the transmission. Cool, eh? NOT!
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A couple of physical checks you can run... to rule out some other factors..
As @rabtech said, change out fluid, but check fill level to insure full. Peel back your shift boot and underlying tranny shift rubber cover and check the shift lever plate four bolts are tight. Check transmission to engine mount bolts for any loose bolts.
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I always hated when I felt that "chunky" shift in my cars. I knew it was only going to get worse from then on. I had a BMW 540i 6speed and it was immaculate. One time I left a red light and nailed it hard and shifted from 1st to 2nd and then to 3rd and I immediately knew that I had messed up. I just didn't get the gear shift all the way into 3rd and when I let the clutch out it never shifted the same again. I wanted to subconsciously believe it just needed a fluid change but I really knew I was screwed. I sold it shifting hard into 3rd. I actually started shifting from 2nd to 4th just so I didn't have to let the RPM die down to get it into 3rd.
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...and now a word from Debbie Downer...
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...and now a word from Debbie Downer...
Yep. Sometimes the news just isn't what we want to hear. -
I always hated when I felt that "chunky" shift in my cars. I knew it was only going to get worse from then on. I had a BMW 540i 6speed and it was immaculate. One time I left a red light and nailed it hard and shifted from 1st to 2nd and then to 3rd and I immediately knew that I had messed up. I just didn't get the gear shift all the way into 3rd and when I let the clutch out it never shifted the same again. I wanted to subconsciously believe it just needed a fluid change but I really knew I was screwed. I sold it shifting hard into 3rd. I actually started shifting from 2nd to 4th just so I didn't have to let the RPM die down to get it into 3rd.
have that in my 6 speed JK Wrangler but it's a known issue. In its case it's a bad first gear syncro that also helps to hold it in first gear when under load. Needs to be rebuilt but for now I just keep my hand on the shifter during starts to keep it in place.
I think I did a similar thing with the sling that you did with your BMW. Doesnt happen all the time , only on a fast hard pull shift into 2nd. If the Syncro is lined up wrong I can get the dreaded grind. Ain't gonna get better so I'll I can do is be aware. Don't know if I could get that covered?
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@gpjames as for the Syncro ring discussed think of it like the alignment tool needed to insure each shift into the next gear happens smoothly and effortlessly. It's just like it sounds. A small ring ahead of each main speed gear that allows the two gears to mesh up as you shift (synchronizes them). If the Syncro ring is slightly bent or damaged the shift will not happen smoothly and there could also be some gear grinding. Unfortunately if it is a Syncro they can only be fixed by opening the transmission case. A simple part that takes a lot to fix.
Edit: in your case if it happens every time than it should be a clear warranty issue.
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ok guys help me out....I'm a little mechanical, don't get to hasty about things in my old age and I like to understand the whys of the what I'm doing. Enlighten me on changing the gear oil and if the bolts were not tight wouldn't I hear or feel it. Stick with me thru my ignorance please. I'm gonna do all this but just wanna understand.
All these other folks could be right and the transmission may need tear down. I was providing information from the manual on single gear scrubbing.
As for the why for... A loose shift plate can cause the shift fork to bobble or not go full travel... Loose transmission to engine mount bolts can cause misalignment of shaft and/or improper operation of clutch... and lubrication is what it is... insufficient, improper, or low levels can cause immediate or long term problems.As for whether or not you would feel it...
Story time. Had a truck driver come in one night complaining of scrubbing two gears, since it was a low/high range manual, that made it a one position shift. Asked him if we needed to take a look at it and he said no, had been a long day and maybe he was just tired. Next day, same driver out for deliveries when we got a radio call. He was downshifting and was unable to get any gear from neutral. So he coasted to a spot to park. Long story short, five of six bolts from transmission to engine were gone. He never felt a thing...A mechanic is what he is. If you don't take the time to check to your ability, how do you know if he is treating you right.
