Battery Bus Bar

IIRC, I saw a picture either here or on the old site where someone had made a bus bar by taking a bar of metal and drilling it to clamp onto the positive battery terminal and then drilled and tapped multiple connection points to handle the main battery connection as well as several individual connections. That picture was posted for its humorous value, but I think the idea made sense.
Lots of bus bar pics here - battery bus bar - Google Search. I recommend using a thick piece of aluminum or copper bar, preferably at least 1/4" thick and 3/4-1" wide (length determined by how many connections you want and how close together you want to make them).
There are videos on making your own bus bars on YouTube -

Since you already have the main accessory wiring running back to the battery, I'd just bolt the bus bar to the back of the driver compartment above the battery. If you're concerned about weather, you could extend the wiring over to the passenger storage area and mount everything there. Just use some rubber or plastic spacers to raise the bus bar off the body surface (for cooling air flow around the bus bar).
If you had intermittent loads, you could probably use a smaller wire size to connect the battery to the bus bar, but the amplifiers will definitely present a steady load, so add up the total amperage load of all of your circuits you plan on attaching to the bus bar (add at least 10-20% more as a safety factor) and find the appropriate wire size to run from the battery to the bus bar using the attached PDF. For extra safety, use an inline fuse to protect the wire connecting the battery to the bus bar.
Good Luck.

I have the same issue and I’m doing this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d…ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I’m not running every single word back to the battery I ran one wire the same size as the battery cable to the front.

To this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d…ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
To this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d…ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d…ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Feeding this

https://www.slingmods.com/arbo…-slingshot?search=Fuse%20

Then Feeding my other fuse box

Using this for ground wires
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d…ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They make a red hot wire buss like this.

First I’m removing my old exhaust system so I can use the space behind the glove box to mount everything. That way it won’t melt. All existing and Any new items will be wired up front. No more front to back wire runs.

I just ordered from Amazon a 10 circuit fuseable 30 amp per circuit and water proof with blown fuse indicator for $20 I do not know how to put the picture on here but it is the ( OLS Water proof Blade Fuse Box IP 56) This is what you need to add circuits to the SS. The one being sold for the SS is only 10 Amp per circuit and the price is way up. How about it @Tripod ,can you fix this

Quote from FunCycle

I just ordered from Amazon a 10 circuit fuseable 30 amp per circuit and water proof with blown fuse indicator for $20 I do not know how to put the picture on here but it is the ( OLS Water proof Blade Fuse Box IP 56) This is what you need to add circuits to the SS. The one being sold for the SS is only 10 Amp per circuit and the price is way up. How about it @Tripod ,can you fix this

Link here:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d…_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8

Quote from Bigdog

I have the same issue and I’m doing this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d…ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I’m not running every single word back to the battery I ran one wire the same size as the battery cable to the front.

To this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d…ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
To this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d…ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d…ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Feeding this

https://www.slingmods.com/arbo…-slingshot?search=Fuse%20

Then Feeding my other fuse box

Using this for ground wires
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d…ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They make a red hot wire buss like this.

First I’m removing my old exhaust system so I can use the space behind the glove box to mount everything. That way it won’t melt. All existing and Any new items will be wired up front. No more front to back wire runs.

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Couldn't tell from the order you listed the components, but I'd place the inline fuse back near the battery. That way, you avoid a long unfused section from the battery to the front.

Quote from Tripod

Link here:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d…_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8

I just received this, it is nor exactly what I was looking for. You have to jump the terminals together to provide the power for each fuse. It does not have a single bus for the power. It will require cutting a hole in a panel or making a small box to cover the back terminals to mount. But still would be good for adding elect. circuits to the SlingShot

This is what I want to upgrade to with my new wiring...all these electronic mods are killing me... alternator and battery upgrade...

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=sQC5Dzicu0c

Here is an even better one. Blue Sea Systems ST Blade ATO/ATC Fuse Blocks available from 4 to 12 fuses. The 4 for $24.62 would be perfect to mount at the battery. These are on Amazon