Just bought a new Tire, Went with Michelin this round, see how long it last. I drive a lot of highway miles under 100 mph, These Sumutros <----SP only good for 10,000 miles. but they only cost 150.00 The Michelin was 450.00 OUCH.
52,000 miles I am on my fourth rear tire.
Almost 40,000 miles on 4th tire including the stock one that came on it. I am thinking high speed is causing it to wear faster.
Display MoreLookslike it’s my turn now.
The BrakeFailure Light just started coming on when driving and cruise control won’twork (no error codes seen on the dash). Brake reservoir is full, so that’snot the issue. Light goes away after restarting. Sounds like the classic symptoms of the brakesensor(s) going bad.
Coming up on my 10K mile service, and also only have about40 days left on my factory 2 year warranty period. Guess its betterthat it started acting up now vs after the warranty has expired.
I was considering asking how much the dealer would charge tojust replace the brake fluid if I did all the other required 10K service items(oil change and various inspections. Still wondering how to"lubricate as directed" the control cables, but that’s another story).
NowI’m going request them to replace the brake pressure switches (both) and seals while it’sstill under warranty, and also ask for the fluid to be replaced at the sametime.
SideNote: At ~ 6.5K miles when I had the other warranty issues fixed (swing armreplace, fuel line replace, steering bolt fix, brake bleeding, ECU flash update)The dealer had told me per my VIN, I did Notneed the brake Stat-O-Seal replacement (T-16-02). After they did the brake bleed using the newprocedure, I had hard brakes (Yes! Nodouble pumping needed
). However, overthe last few thousand miles, I’ve noticed the brakes getting continuouslysofter, to the point they again need double pump for hard stops. Seems like more evidence the Stat-O-Sealreplacement work needs to be done!
I also had mine taken care of during the swing arm recall then a few weeks ago during a hard brake into a left turn the brake failure light came on. When I shut it off and restarted the light was off. I took it to my dealer who without question replaced the seal again and sensors as well and did all the brake bleeding etc. I told him I was glad it is still under warranty and he told me it didn't matter that Polaris recognizes the problem and continues to service it in warranty or not.
52,000 miles I am on my fourth rear tire.
4th? You must not push your sling very hard.
4th? You must not push your sling very hard.
NO! I do not, just good tires. 21,000 on the Kenda - 10,000 on the BFG A/S - 18,000 on the General G-Max AS-03 Right now BFG Comp 2 now of which it might make 10,000 from the looks of it. I just do not do much spinning of the rear tire unless it is drifting around the turns. 
NO! I do not, just good tires.
Why do they say the stock tire sucks but you have gotten the most mileage out of the stock?
Sent from my iPad using Polaris Slingshot Forum mobile app
Why do they say the stock tire sucks but you have gotten the most mileage out of the stock?
Sent from my iPad using Polaris Slingshot Forum mobile app
I hardly got 8,000 on the stock rear.
Why do they say the stock tire sucks but you have gotten the most mileage out of the stock?
Sent from my iPad using Polaris Slingshot Forum mobile app
Stock tire is great as far as wear is concerned but this means it is a very hard compound which means it sucks for traction. There’s always a trade off...
Stock tire is great as far as wear is concerned but this means it is a very hard compound which means it sucks for traction. There’s always a trade off...
That explains why it spun in 1st 2nd and 3rd and scratched in 4th. Damn hard tires. 
BigDog, What year Bike?
Mine is a 2016 SL.
I will be talking to the Polaris Service dept today, will see how cooperative they will be regarding my request for the two Brake sensors to be replaced.
