Philip's Belgian Sling

Aw that would piss me off too, sorry @philip_mustang forgot to say , and if they do start to tighten up , stop walk away and let them cool, heat is the enemy on such a small bolt and it takes very little tightening friction to heat them up, believe me I know too ! lol. the next step can be even more maddening. When drilling them out be sure use a much smaller drill bit I,ve had the best luck going down at least 50% in diameter, then tapping in the smallest knock out tool will usually twist them out . the trick is to use a sharp centre punch to start the drill exactly in the centre of the broken bolt. You do not want the bit to wander to the side of the bolt while drilling , especially if your drilling a softer casting like the roll over hoops, the centrifical forces will immediately push the bit into the softer material and then your really gonna be pissed off . Good luck, it seems impossible to get them drilled out the first couple of times, oh yah, and be sure to use a good quality jobbers bit ,with such a small diameter its only too easy to break off the bit in the bolt too , the jobbers bits picked up at your local machine shop suppliers are so much sharper (and stay sharp) you can usually get them in using only a hand drill but of course if you can get the part off and place it in a drill press vise, the chance of breaking the bolt or wandering will be greatly reduced.
Sincerely hope this helps, can only say ''been there, done that'' way too many times !

Got to learn to proof read my posts before I hit the damn submit button! Forgot to make another point , when I said ''heat is the enemy'' I mean the friction heat generated trying to turn them in as they tighten up, if you can immediately stop as soon as they,re not turning easily, and walk away till they cool a few minutes, then they will usually back out. At which time your only remedy is to run a tap through the hole cleaning up the threads, or it will just do the same thing next time you try to turn it in. Those smaller 6 and 8 mm bolt fine threaded bolts are so easily cross threaded, and they appear to be going in but just a little tight, and this is where the trouble begins. I,m now at the point where I keep a tap in my drill and as soon as I cant turn the bolt in 90% of the way by hand before tightening ,I re tap the hole and/or double check to be sure I,m not sticking the wrong size or threaded bolt in . Done that way too many times too lol If you do have to tap the odd hole just bump the drill in forward then reverse, another bump forward then reverse, and repeat. You will almost inevitably find its broke off in a spot where you cant get a proper tap T handle in place and bumping the tap in with a drill will become second nature and it takes less than 20 seconds, and cleans the hole out allowing you to spin those smaller bolts in by hand at least 90% of the way.

Again ,sincerely hope this helps ! Nothing is more frustrating than breaking another damn bolt off !

Quote from philip_mustang

Seems I have something with bolts breaking.

Tried to install the hub adapter and while attemping to take of the oem steering wheel a bolt broke inside the steering wheel

Any ideas here how to get it off now??

@philip_mustang

Being lazy here... could direct you to other posts regarding steering wheel removal... but that would mean searching them out.

Try this....

Put the large steering nut back on the steering spindle, thread it down a couple of rotations, leaving plenty of space between the nut and the steering wheel. The reason for this is so you don't knock yourself out when the steering wheel comes off. Grip the steering wheel with both hands, one at the 9:00 and one at the 3:00 o'clock positions. Now pull hard alternating pulls between the clock positions. Steering wheel will come off and then you can deal with the broken bolt...

Thanks @philip_mustang! That belt guard seems different because of the added semicircle covering the back... Interesting!

Sorry @philip_mustang about all the trouble your having it can be frustrating , can,t it, I too just installed Slingshot only's new wheel and just did it in the parking lot while in Florida with no puller, using an old trick I've used on many steering wheel removals. @airoutlaw is correct it will come off by hand, albeit difficultly, but the trick we use is too turn the large column nut out till the face of it is flush with the end of the shaft that way you can drive the head of the shaft without damaging the threads. using a good size club hammer while pulling from side to side as airoutlaw suggests will jar them loose . Driving on the end of the shaft with a good size club hammer while pulling gives the same effect as an impact gun and helps break the splines loose.

Yellow! Looking really good sir!

Gold! Not just to go against @MiM either. Looking great @philip_mustang. You have wasted no time since getting your hands on it.

I was in the same boat Phil. I gave my quick release away. It felt like the steering wheel was in my chest with it on.

Think about what you'd like Philip... If you do want quick release, then get the Forever Sharp hub (shorter than the Assault one)... There are other short hub options, but the FS one is $60 on Amazon.

I was going to go that route, but I couldn't get the Assault hub off... Think previous owner put a hex on it! There's a thread about this drama for which I am now forever teased about...

Quote from MiM

Think about what you'd like Philip... If you do want quick release, then get the Forever Sharp hub (shorter than the Assault one)... There are other short hub options, but the FS one is $60 on Amazon.

I was going to go that route, but I couldn't get the Assault hub off... Think previous owner put a hex on it! There's a thread about this drama for which I am now forever teased about...

I got a quick release hub, from China. The quality of it is astounding, (I didn't know if it would be good or not).
Yes it extends the position of the wheel but it looks like my one is shorter. I will try and take a few pictures and post them, for @philip_mustang with some dimensions.

One thing I have noticed is what engineers refer to as a little "slap" in the wheel. I remember some before the change and I'm not sure if it is now worse. (However still not much slap, so it's OK for me).

Quote from philip_mustang

After purchasing the SS in Januari, having it completly repainted and waiting for it to be delivered after the recall was done due to the "stop sell" the BIG DAY arrived!

I originally bought this:

But to match the other stuff in the garage it had to change color.
Had to match to this

and

So yesterday I borrowed a trailer to go and get it

At the dealer we loaded it on the trailer. It was close but worked out fine

Already had shipped some custom PRP covers to the shop to match the paint.

Then it was parked in the garage

And united with the other toy

Now I'll have to wait till all the paperwork is done so I can get it registred and receive my plates.

So I can't drive it but that gives me time to install the first mods

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I'm so jealous. I want that garage!
It looks like it doubles as a greenhouse and a wine cellar!
Oh and the toys are awesome too!

Sent from my iPhone using Polaris Slingshot Forum mobile app

Quote from Bill Martin

Reminds me of the Super Bee of the 70's

SHARP lookin color - well done Sir

I owned one of these, way back when. It was the first time I ever went into a power slide. Scared the crap out of me! Wish I still owned it.

Polaris Slingshot Turn Signal Levers

@philip_mustang
I have taken some pictures of my steering wheel setup, today. I will try and post them later today, or perhaps tomorrow.

It looks to be shorter than yours but the pictures will tell a lot more than words can, so hold on for the pictures.

I checked out the 'slap' in the steering wheel and found that it has been, just a little, loose from the time I fitted it. This was caused by the socket, that I used to tighten the nut, having an outside diameter, just a fraction bigger than the hole in the adapter. (More when the pictures come). I inserted an additional washer and this solved the problem.

So: More info to follow soon, but first check that the 16mm nylock nut is tightly secured in place.