Passanger seat slider

    Quote from TCB

    Feedback after install

    Oh, there will be. Feedback before install is that the packaging leaves a lot to be desired. Good packaging around the frame, but all the hardware was loose in the box. I literally poured a bunch of bolts and washers out into my hand.


    No parts list included, no directions included. No written directions on the website, and other than the video, you're working on your own. Looks like they gave us extra hardware, but we won't know until we're done.


    Quote from KayTwo

    Oh, there will be. Feedback before install is that the packaging leaves a lot to be desired. Good packaging around the frame, but all the hardware was loose in the box. I literally poured a bunch of bolts and washers out into my hand.
    No parts list included, no directions included. No written directions on the website, and other than the video, you're working on your own. Looks like they gave us extra hardware, but we won't know until we're done.



    Are you finished yet?

    Welp. We're at a semi-hard stop. The posts on the bottom of the frame just barely line up with the holes on the seat bottom.


    To be clear, we have a Gen 2 seat (similar to SLRs), and we had no issues changing the Gen 1 seats over on the stock frame.


    The bigger issue, and what has us at a stop, is that the bolts that hold the rails on the bottom of the frame run into the bottom of the seat cushion plastic housing, as if the Gen 2 bottom is about half and inch wider on either side than the bottom of the Gen 1.


    Pictures below show the bolt/nut contacting the plastic, and then the light gouges in the plastic.


    I think we can get around it by drilling shallow holes in the plastic seat bottom to allow the bolts to fit into....but for $300, we shouldn't have to do that.


    @slingmods, @SlingMods Brandon, @SlingMods_Josh, you have any thoughts or ideas on the matter?




    Progress update: It's pretty clear to me that if you have the Gen 1 OEM seats, or the PRPs, you'll be fine. @V-SHOT put his slider on his PRP with none of these issues we're having.


    If you have the Gen 2 OEM seats (and I assume, the SLRs), you're going to have to make some mods in order to get the seat bottoms to fit against the slider bracket.


    In the back, I drilled a 1/2" hole on either side to give the bolt a place to fit into.





    In the front, there was a similar issue, to a lesser degree, with one of the two bolts not having enough clearance. I used a dremel to fix that.




    Once I got the clearances taken care of, the seat fit on. Last major hurdle: the provided screws aren't long enough. If you have PRP seats, they have different bolts, and there are no issues. However, if you have OEM seats, the 1 1/4" screws are just a touch too short to get threadlock. I didn't have any 1 1/2" screws here, so I make them from 3" screws with a set of boltcutters.



    After all of that, the seat bottom fit onto the slider base, and install continued. Final details to follow.

    @KayTwo and @sideseatdriver keep at it! You are so right. For close to $300.00, you shouldn't have to modify anything!!!! As I read the advertisement again, I didn't see anything related to fitment for the SLR seats. I didn't think there was that much of a difference. But your modification should work just fine!!! :thumbup:


    I finished my install a little bit ago. Like you said, with the PRP Gen II, there were no issues at all. Mrs. V-SHOT loves the new addition!! And THAT is what's most important.



    Yours looks way less crooked than ours does.

    Ok, here's the rest of the story, but I'll start from the beginning. As mentioned earlier, we have the Gen 2 OEM seats, similar to the 2017 SLRs.


    Initial measurements: 22" to front footplate
    Bottom to seat back 5"
    Bottom to seat front highest point 9"


    To disassemble:
    - 16mm for seat belt bolt
    - 15mm for bolts underneath front of seat and left rear bolt
    - 16mm for right rear bolt, plus a 19mm wrench for nut.
    (~10 min to get seat out)


    - 15mm to disassemble seat halves
    (~5 min to take apart)


    - 8mm to remove seat bottom from frame
    (~2 min)


    Upon reassembly, aside from all our difficulties, you'll need an 11mm for the screws (not sure about the bolts for the PRP seats)


    Slider frame is substantially heavier than stock.






    15 min to unpack and prep and rewatch initial part of video.


    Re-use the stock bolts to reattach the two seat halves.


    Then, after all of that (and we had already gone through the drilling/dremel steps), it was time to put it back into the cockpit.


    The slider frame didn't line up with the holes in the vehicle frame. @V-SHOT had to keep his bolts finger-loose and rock the frame around to get the fourth bolt, but I ended up needing to use the dremel to grind out and enlarge the side of the bolt hole in the sludrr frane by between 1/32" and 1/16" before that rocking method would work. Again, for a $300 mod, you'd think the holes would line up.


    The new seat frame does sit up about 3/4" higher. The slider works great, the recline is awesome, and @sideseatdriver is a lot more comfortable. One thing we noticed, if you bring the seat all the way forward and then recline all the way, it is possible to make contact with your painted hoops underneath the roll bars. Careful not to damage those.


    Bottom line:
    - Pros: Final seat positon gives easier access to storage, more comfortable, easier future installation of harnesses or anything else requiring removal of seat.
    - Cons: Too much modification required for a "finished" product (needed longer screws for seat bottom, slider bracket holes didn't fit to vehicle frame), doesn't work with Gen 2 OEM seats without modification (drill/dremel).
    - Total time: an hour or less, depending on issues you may hit
    - 4 stars on ease of install for Gen 1 / PRP seats, 2.5 to 3 stars for ease with Gen 2 s