If wanting your ECU back ASAP, you might wan to consider overnighting it to and from OBD Disgnostics. Be sure to include return shipping along with your ECU. I mailed mine on a Friday and got it back on the second Tuesday after shipping (12 days). Wasn't a problem for me as I had other needs keeping me from getting back to the turbo install. I hope to drop my pan tomorrow and then get on with the installation.
Just bought bill's used Hahn turbo... What else do I need to buy?
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Also, post or message me a pic of the MAP sensor that came with the kit, and I can verify that. Do you have the short adaptor harness as well?
The map sensor that was on Bill's was the one you had to cut and rewire. He needs the new prewired one to make it easier.
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all you have to do is reverse two wires on the pigtail. Not sure what that one from amazon is going to help you do. Here is what you need.
Also do you have that thin oring that goes under the intake hat and connects to the throttle body?
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If wanting your ECU back ASAP, you might wan to consider overnighting it to and from OBD Disgnostics. Be sure to include return shipping along with your ECU. I mailed mine on a Friday and got it back on the second Tuesday after shipping (12 days). Wasn't a problem for me as I had other needs keeping me from getting back to the turbo install. I hope to drop my pan tomorrow and then get on with the installation.
I couldn't wait for mine. I overnighted it to Bob and included an overnight return label back to me. Only gone 2 days, but not cheap. -
@Street Doc I'm with you on the overnight shipping. Nothing worse than having a new toy at christmas and no batteries to plan with it.
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DAMN!! My bride says the same thing
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You ain't right
@Bill Martin -
Display Moreall you have to do is reverse two wires on the pigtail. Not sure what that one from amazon is going to help you do. Here is what you need.
Also do you have that thin oring that goes under the intake hat and connects to the throttle body?
If you're talking about the metal oring, it was crushed during shipping
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So I ordered the pig tail from Amazon, my friend gave me the part number... I'm gonna use his ecu for now, ship mine next week to Bob... The oil return line was kinked, so gonna have one made tomorrow, the metal on ring that goes inside the plenum (I think that's what it's called) of the intake was crushed, so my friend is gonna give me his... Exhaust doesn't have the hanger bolt... Other than that, I think we're good. @Bill from Hahn RaceCraft, do u sell that metal o ring by itself? And is the exhaust hanger bolt something I can pick up from home depot or ace hardware?
We can provide the adaptor harness (pig tail) in ready-to-install form, no re-pinning needed. That's what we use in our TurboSystems. I stress this not only to inform you correctly @Garrett Taguchi, but also because I don't want anyone watching this thread to mis-interpret the re-pinning detail that's been discussed as something they'd need to do to the harness we provide.
As to any and all of the other parts you need, yes...we can provide it all. The exhaust hanger bolt is rather a specialty item, so I doubt you'd find it at a typical consumer source. We are careful to use the factory intended exhaust mounting point boss on these engines (as opposed to some other arrangements we've seen that share a mounting tab with the actual bellhousing bolts, which we find to be an engineering no-no), so the hardware is a tad specialized. The bolt also requires two large aluminum washers that we machine; they are called out on the parts list and instructions I provided you via email.
All that said, if you'd like to order any of the parts you need from us, feel free. For accuracy's sake, you can email/message us the part numbers from the list we provided, along with quantities...or if you prefer, we can call you to help set up your order. Let me know what works best for you!
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DAMN!! My bride says the same thing
Apparently, you've gotten her used to the small things in life. What a keeper!
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Apparently, you've gotten her used to the small things in life. What a keeper!
She doesn't wanna give me a complex .... she loves me
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She doesn't wanna give me a complex .... she loves me
That she does!
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I couldn't wait for mine. I overnighted it to Bob and included an overnight return label back to me. Only gone 2 days, but not cheap.
Expensive, YES!
@Street Doc I'm with you on the overnight shipping. Nothing worse than having a new toy at christmas and no batteries to plan with it.
As slow as I'm working on the turbo install, snail mail worked perfectly well for me. I mailed my ECU two weeks ago today and got it back last Tuesday. Last week we were expecting a tropical storm with potentially lots of rain so I was in n o hurry and this week it's been hotter than Hades! I work a few minutes in my open carport and then come back inside to cool down.
I'm now trying to figure out how to get the oil pan high enough to clear the frame member as I remove it. A guy on TDS recommending using a 2-1/4" 2x4 as a spacer, presumably under the passenger motor mount and frame, but when I got to around 1-3/4" or so, the coolant tank was hitting the dash cover and the lower coolant tank hose was looking crushed. The small cooling lines at the right front of the motor were also getting pretty stretched, so I removed a bolt to free up the hose and cut a few cable ties holding the hoses together. I've got the 2x4 piece on its side holding the motor up and I think it might be high enough at 1.5", but more clearance would be nice. I'm thinking about removing the dash cover screws to allow a little more vertical movement.
I'd appreciate any helpful feedback. -
Expensive, YES!
As slow as I'm working on the turbo install, snail mail worked perfectly well for me. I mailed my ECU two weeks ago today and got it back last Tuesday. Last week we were expecting a tropical storm with potentially lots of rain so I was in n o hurry and this week it's been hotter than Hades! I work a few minutes in my open carport and then come back inside to cool down.I'm now trying to figure out how to get the oil pan high enough to clear the frame member as I remove it. A guy on TDS recommending using a 2-1/4" 2x4 as a spacer, presumably under the passenger motor mount and frame, but when I got to around 1-3/4" or so, the coolant tank was hitting the dash cover and the lower coolant tank hose was looking crushed. The small cooling lines at the right front of the motor were also getting pretty stretched, so I removed a bolt to free up the hose and cut a few cable ties holding the hoses together. I've got the 2x4 piece on its side holding the motor up and I think it might be high enough at 1.5", but more clearance would be nice. I'm thinking about removing the dash cover screws to allow a little more vertical movement.
I'd appreciate any helpful feedback.Have you removed the lower motor mount nuts on both driver and passenger side?
Somewhat like the 2x4 you mention, we've used short pieces of 1.5" tubing (many sizes will work), about 1.5" long, slotted to fit over the studs, as "shims" under the motor mounts to keep the motor in the higher position once it's been lifted.
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Have you removed the lower motor mount nuts on both driver and passenger side?
Somewhat like the 2x4 you mention, we've used short pieces of 1.5" tubing (many sizes will work), about 1.5" long, slotted to fit over the studs, as "shims" under the motor mounts to keep the motor in the higher position once it's been lifted.I've got all of the bolts off now (pan-to-block and pan-to trans), but I can't get he oil pan to loosen up. Using a 1" oak dowel and hammer against a rear pry point/lip, but the dowl keeps breaking. Gonna try reinforcing it with some hose clamps and maybe spray the gasket edge with some CRC Gasket Remover.
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Double check for bolts on oil pan can't remember how many but it should separate if your prying it
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Putting two hose clamps on the end of the dowel that was hitting against the oil pan did the trick. Or else I ripped the pan off despite any bolts! I counted 15 pan-to-block bolts (13mm heads) and 4 pan-to transmission bolts (18mm, IIRC). I did hear a sharp crack as the sealant started separating. Will go out and check everything in a few minutes after I've cooled down (it's still over 90F here and I go out for a few minutes and then come back in to cool down). Takes me a while to get things done, but eventually I muddle through.
Update - No damage to pan or engine. The noise must have just been the sealant breaking apart. Got the baffle and oil pickup line transferred to the pre-modded pan I got from Hahn. Plan cleaning the old gasket material from the engine tomorrow.
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@Garrett Taguchi you need to get ahold of @Bill from Hahn RaceCraft and let him explain what 2X is referring to . 2X is referring to running a 2bar MAP sensor. You cant switch around like you are referring to. It is a bt more than I can type here to cover all the details. If @Bill from Hahn RaceCraft doesn't see this and reach out you need to give him a quick call. I don't want to see you mess your engine up by installing something that is not accounted for in Bobs tune.
