If you think it's fuel related (bad relay or pump not just out of fuel) take the cap off the fuel rail. Depress the schrader valve (being careful not to get fuel sprayed all over the place). If there is no fuel being released, then you're on the right track. If the fuel pump and relay are both working, you will have residual fuel pressure in the line up to that point.
The OBD2 scanner will not work on the Slingshot.....the dealer uses the Digital Wrench scanner and program....DDMworks sells a special scanner with the software to be able to tap into the Slingshot computer and to also be able to clear codes as well.....well worth the money if you do your own work on the bike.
Had a good clip going when the engine died, and would not jump start.
Pulled over, when I would hit the starter it would sound like it was trying to ignite combustion, just not getting enough fuel. Picked up a OBD2 and have the adapter on order, which will hopefully give me a general idea where to look.
Hoping it's something simple like the fuel pump relay. Will post updates.
If you got a regular OBD2 reader, most likely it will not connect to the Slingshot. The 2015-2019 Slingshots use a different protocol from cars, J1939, which is only found on large trucks and marine applications typically. If you end up needing one, we have one that is guaranteed to connect - https://www.ddmworks.com/Polar…l-by-DDMWorks_p_2992.html
I not sure running it dry is a good idea. Some pumps can be damaged that way plus the amp reading maybe off due to no load on the pump.
Picked up a shop manual and read up on the fuel system. it said to check the amp rating where the fuel pump fuse it at. It is suppose to read between 5 and 6 amps, it was 13. So LLLOOONNNNGGG story short, a new fuel pump is ordered...
I wanted to order it at a local dealer, they wanted $640. DDM did not carry it so ended up ordering on Amazon for $550.
I do have a question though. Once it comes in can I just hook it up to the electrical connection and repeat the amp test before inserting it in the tank? I've read that it can't be returned if it has come in contact with fuel.
OUCH. The reason the price is so high, is that Polaris doesn't sell the fuel pump by itself. You will be getting the entire tank unit which has the fuel pump, harness, float assembly and fuel sending unit all connected so you just remove the old one and install the new one. But don't toss out the old unit since the fuel sending units do fail quite often. Plus you can get a "universal" fuel pump from Airtex or Delco that will replace the oem one and you'll have a complete spare assembly when it's done. A new fuel pump that way should run somewhere between $60 and $100
Display MoreLesson I learned: DO NOT BUY A LITHIUM ION BATTERY
So my lithium ion battery won't take a charge. Manufacturer told me to remove the battery and initiate force mode on the charger that when the charge gets low enough it goes into a protective mode.
While I was able to remove the negative terminal, the positive won't budge. Would it be safe to just attach the charger to the terminal that won't loosen, or am I risking more damage? Otherwise I will need to remove the storage compartment on the drivers side to have better access to the battery.
2nd life lesson: buy the extended warranty.
Why do you not just hook up at the alternator. You do not have to hook up at the battery. Also according to what kind of charger you are using you hook another battery up to get above the minimum battery voltage for the charger to work.
My 2015 bought in Nov. 2014, still has the original battery. I believe there are others in the same situation Shatneyman
With this kind of success, I will buy another just like it.
Why do you not just hook up at the alternator. You do not have to hook up at the battery. Also according to what kind of charger you are using you hook another battery up to get above the minimum battery voltage for the charger to work.
My problem is that the manufacturer has instructed the battery be removed from the vehicle before the charger is put in "force mode".
For normal charging I just use the jump ports I installed.
I don't know if that "force mode" would damage the electrical system if I just hook up as is.
maybe in Force Mode there is a chance of catching fire. To many of these lithium ion batteries catching on fire and burning up the vehicle and the garage.
maybe in Force Mode there is a chance of catching fire. To many of these lithium ion batteries catching on fire and burning up the vehicle and the garage.
This makes sense.
