Brake failure light on cluster
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As far as I’ve been told…….haven’t seen this on my sling yet only a rental so asked questions about it. It will be your two sensors on your master cylinder. I believe Frank the Tank just had to do this also. I know a lot will chime in with a procedure that I haven’t had to do yet.
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Mine was coming on when I bought it. I found out later that the dealer had ordered the 2 pressure switches and let me know when they came in. They changed them out when I took it for an oil change.
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Sorry if I am joining in a conversation in which options have already been discussed. This happened to me two years ago just prior to heading out to Maggie Valley. Wanting to get this corrected prior to Maggie I ordered this kit along with speed bleeders. The speed bleeders arrived in time, however the break pressure kit did not. I replaced the old fluid with a bleed and it worked for me, to this day all is fine. Theory, water vapor collected in the break fluid. My system heated up the water boiled and set of the switch? I believe this has been discussed also. I also ride my Harley with a large group. Some have had this issue and it did have to do with the ABS system and air getting trapped in the module which requires a digital wrench to do a proper bleed and as I believe it was as FunCycle ? said. I have heard it can be done with a hard break application to activate the ABS and push the old fluid through the module and then rebleed? Or of course it could be these switches. Guess it depend on the situation. For me, I suppose it was a simple flush and bleed with the speed bleeders. Sometimes, you get lucky.
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Sorry if I am joining in a conversation in which options have already been discussed. This happened to me two years ago just prior to heading out to Maggie Valley. Wanting to get this corrected prior to Maggie I ordered this kit along with speed bleeders. The speed bleeders arrived in time, however the break pressure kit did not. I replaced the old fluid with a bleed and it worked for me, to this day all is fine. Theory, water vapor collected in the break fluid. My system heated up the water boiled and set of the switch? I believe this has been discussed also. I also ride my Harley with a large group. Some have had this issue and it did have to do with the ABS system and air getting trapped in the module which requires a digital wrench to do a proper bleed and as I believe it was as FunCycle ? said. I have heard it can be done with a hard break application to activate the ABS and push the old fluid through the module and then rebleed? Or of course it could be these switches. Guess it depend on the situation. For me, I suppose it was a simple flush and bleed with the speed bleeders. Sometimes, you get lucky.
Yes, I think you are talking about me suggesting to back up and hit the brakes. The brakes would kind of chatter and then do a gravity bleed on the brakes. I still do a gravity bleed every time I change at 5,000 miles. It helps to get rid of the air and change the brake fluid
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Mine does too and after some research I also think that has to do with a magnetic brake switch which I will be upgrading to a manual brake switch. At the end of the day it’s just sensors and doesn’t effect too much too my knowledge and could be wrong
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Mine does too and after some research I also think that has to do with a magnetic brake switch which I will be upgrading to a manual brake switch. At the end of the day it’s just sensors and doesn’t effect too much too my knowledge and could be wrong
The magnetic brake switch will NOT cause a light on dash but will leave your brake lights on. Bad sensors in master cylinder will cause a light on dash. Both will disable cruise control.
Hope this helps
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Just a suggestion. BEFORE you install a new switch from Polaris, use a continuity tester to see if a new switch (or even a known GOOD switch) has a "normally closed or normally open" design. You could then either research yourself online for new switches that have that thread and is designed the same (normally open or closed) circuitry. I'm sure any of the big manufacturers (Delco, Standard ignition Echlin etc would have an off the shelf switch that will work in the future that is designed this way and at a more reasonable price.
Replacing both switches makes sense, but you probably only have one of them that's bad, so why toss out a know good one when you can just test them once you know the design
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The magnetic brake switch will NOT cause a light on dash but will leave your brake lights on. Bad sensors in master cylinder will cause a light on dash. Both will disable cruise control.
Hope this helps
So I was hoping a lot of you knowledgeable folks would chime in cause I know my brake lights stick. And I have the traction control light come on a lot I was hoping the mechanical fixed this issue cause how it is written on sling mods……DAM
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So I was hoping a lot of you knowledgeable folks would chime in cause I know my brake lights stick. And I have the traction control light come on a lot I was hoping the mechanical fixed this issue cause how it is written on sling mods……DAM
To the best of my knowledge traction control relies on wheel speed sensors
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The magnetic brake switch will NOT cause a light on dash but will leave your brake lights on. Bad sensors in master cylinder will cause a light on dash. Both will disable cruise control.
Hope this helps
The brake magnetic switch will also have a light and the cruise control will not work.
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So I was hoping a lot of you knowledgeable folks would chime in cause I know my brake lights stick. And I have the traction control light come on a lot I was hoping the mechanical fixed this issue cause how it is written on sling mods……DAM
I had trouble with the SlingMod switch also on Sling I but never got around to playing with the setting. I made a bracket and bought a standard push button mechanical brake switch from Auto Zone for around $5 at the time. All you need is a drill motor and a file to make a bracket, it might take you 30 minutes to make. I never had another problem.
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The brake magnetic switch will also have a light and the cruise control will not work.
When the magnetic switch failed on mine it didn't light anything except the brake lights. And yes it disables cruise control
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When the magnetic switch failed on mine it didn't light anything except the brake lights. And yes it disables cruise control
Brake Failure light, top center and the brake lights stay on along with the cruise control not working
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I love us ALL
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Well i did notice the fluid to be a little dark.i will try a gravity bleed again. Before this happened I have noticed the abs kicks in every once in a while but I have hawk ceramics brakes on.
Get yourself 3 each 2 foot long clear tubing to fit over the brake bleeders. Slide one piece of the hose onto the bleeder and crack the bleeder. Do the same thing to the other bleeders. With the tubing other end up in the air. By this time you are back where you started, close the bleeder and remove the tubing. If I want to completely change the fluid I remove most of the brake fluid from the master cylinder and refill with new brake fluid and then do the gravity bleed
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Well I have done gravity bleed the brakes also. And the light still can back on. I did notice that the rear brake reservoir which is the front one on master cylinder did not push as much fluid as the front. About 1/2 as much on Everytime I cracked the bleeder when bleeding them.. is that normal? If not could be a clogged system...MC or brake line.
Not likely to be plugged. The bleeding of the brakes will not turn the light off. More than likely it is the brake pedal switch.
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So mine is starting to act up, but if l pump the brakes two or three time before l starting the slingshot the light will stays off .lf l don't pump the brakes it will come on after l use the brakes a few time
