My Slingshot just died

Quote from chavey2

SON OF A BEACH!

It happened again. Going to work yesterday (30 miles on freeway), it did a quick sputter. RPMs dropped, but it recaught (as I was doing 60+mph). Did the same thing twice on the way home but kept going. Stopped for gas, started up, drove 1 mile down the street and it just died. I was only lucky enough to get it into a center median to get out of the way of traffic.

Did all the stuff I did before - pulled the ECM cables, pulled out the relays/breakers/fuses - nothing. I noticed I had every light on except the start button. Gave up after 30 mins and called an uber (only 7 miles from home). Got the motorhome (truck is in shop for repairs - that's a whole 'nuther story) and a couple basic tools. Decided to just drive back without pulling out trailer just to see if I could get it started.

Tried starting, thinking it might have cooled. Nuthin'.

Pulled the ECM cables again. Nuthin'.

Pulled all the relays out, mixed them up, put them back in different spots. Nuthin'.

Pulled each breaker and put them back in one by one. Nuthin'.

Pulled each fuse to check it. Nuthin'.

Pulled the ECM and the Ignition 10A breakers (the ones with the red dots) and just flip spots. Started right up! Steering wouldn't work. Stopped engine and restarted right up - everything fine! BTW - No code either!

WHAT THE F!!

Drove the SS home - no problem. Got another Uber to drive me back to pick up the motorhome.

Do these 10A breakers go bad? Can you buy replacements at Autozone?

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if they went bad and you swapped them then the problem would move to where the bad one was installed. Could be something intermittent with one of them. OR could be a bad connection where they plug in, or where the wire connects to the terminal under the fuse block. Definitely try the cheapest solution which is likely 2 new breakers first.

Anybody know what those circuit breakers are called? I checked Polaris and they want $20-45 EACH for them. Autozone and Google were not my friend this time

I had the "sputter" happen twice yesterday. Didn't shut down completely, but gives you that heart attack before catching itself again. Chasing electrical gremlins is a b..ch!

I found these but aren't sure they are the exact same thing:

Eaton- Busman fuse.

just punch in the part # and polaris in amazon. same fuse for other polaris vehicles. Some on amazon some not.

BUT those ones you pictures looks the same.

Yep, That looks EXACTLY like them! Now to figure out what is causing the circuit breaker to sputter/cut out while driving....

Yep, that is definitely the correct breaker. But why would i have power with the key out? I noticed when I pulled the ECM one (on top), when I put it back in, I got a little spark. I'm wondering if I have a short somewhere which is powering that all the time? Anyone got thoughts of where to start looking?

Geeeezzzz whose fingers are those? No matter how I try I still can’t get all the dirt, grease and oil out from underneath my nails.😎🤦‍♂️ But I do love it that way!!

Quote from chavey2

Yep, that is definitely the correct breaker. But why would i have power with the key out? I noticed when I pulled the ECM one (on top), when I put it back in, I got a little spark. I'm wondering if I have a short somewhere which is powering that all the time? Anyone got thoughts of where to start looking?

ECM is connected to power all the time by that fuse

Thanks. Didn't realize that. Gonna have to look to see if I've got a short somewhere. Tested breaker, but it works - at least intermittently.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Polaris Slingshot Forum mobile app

Quote from chavey2

IThanks. Didn't realize that. Gonna have to look to see if I've got a short somewhere. Tested breaker, but it works - at least intermittently.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Polaris Slingshot Forum mobile app

also an intermittent ground is a good possibility. A short would blow a fuse. Bad ground or bad connection wouldn’t.

Man!

I idolize you guys who can look at an electrical schematic and diagnose a problem. It’s always been a ghost in the machine to me. If I can’t fix it with a wrench, duct, tape, super glue or WD-40 someone else is gonna have to. Oh yeah, and a hammer!

The closest I got to success was going to a mechanical brake switch, and I’m actually proud of that☺️

Quote from SoCal

Man!

I idolize you guys who can look at an electrical schematic and diagnose a problem. It’s always been a ghost in the machine to me. If I can’t fix it with a wrench, duct, tape, super glue or WD-40 someone else is gonna have to. Oh yeah, and a hammer!

The closest I got to success was going to a mechanical brake switch, and I’m actually proud of that☺️

Its looks daunting, and often can be, but can also be straight forward. Sometimes it's more a matter of following the lines to see what is connected first. From Chavey2 question about small spark, following the lines just shows that it's connected to constant power, and it goes through a constant power splice, so not the issue, as you are connecting and disconnecting the ECU under a small load. Troubleshooting bad connections is definitely a matter of process of elimination and can be a PITA and time consuming, and sometimes just good luck. Helps that I have my own electrical contracting business so deal with troubleshooting wiring regularly. Different voltage, and different system, but procedure for troubleshooting is pretty much the same.

Quote from SoCal

Man!

I idolize you guys who can look at an electrical schematic and diagnose a problem. It’s always been a ghost in the machine to me. If I can’t fix it with a wrench, duct, tape, super glue or WD-40 someone else is gonna have to. Oh yeah, and a hammer!

The closest I got to success was going to a mechanical brake switch, and I’m actually proud of that☺️

When Dave at DDM starts talking to me about wiring, ECM, etc. — I stop him and say…