Light at the End of the Tunnel!

It's been awhile since I updated this, but it's for good reason. We are into the part of the winter project that is just slow and we both hate wiring things! That said I really think if we work on this tomorrow for a few hours, it'll be back in my garage. Easiest way is to post the pics that were taken since the last article and catch you all up!


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DDM master brake cylinder brace got mounted, LED bulb swap out and wired, and mount made for rear exhaust to keep things tight. I'm not using the dual tips and instead have the drag tip on the ZZP rear exhaust coming out just past the battery box area. Vid posted in previous article is still the latest I have of it running - tomorrow will get some driving hopefully! -


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Heated seats were next, fuse box went in storage area behind the driver seat and added a relay to ensure this panel only has power when ignition on etc... This way if wife forgets to turn her seat off, it won't matter when we get back out to the sling etc... Also put my cheap Amazon underglow on here as well - that box always had a very small power draw to maintain RF signal to turn on via remote etc... I can now easily pull that wire if the sling is going to be sitting for an extended period with no power. Each seat has a butt/back warmer and then hi/low/off on the switch - curious to see how effective these warmers are under the vinyl seat covers!


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I'm cheap, so making the stock front speaker pods work I swapped out the speakers for 6.5" kicker marine speaker w/led hoop. The LED means I have a 4 wire stran to run with the speaker wire on these so figure I'd want a set of plugs on each speaker. The SSV works rear deck hump pods - didn't have a way for water to get out once in, so added a few small pin holes so if water did get in there could drain etc... Also got the horn replaced with a fabin two horn that I found on this forum as it looks better than that cheap plastic airhorn I had before.. Wired in switch for headlight bypass so I can run LED's w/out having headlights on etc...

Video of the smoke test to make sure it would work like it did in my head -


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Since nothing smoked last time - today was mounting it all. Got all the wires ran and tucked in a way that I'm happy with. Will get some black corrugate plastic for the small sections in the cab, mostly just to keep the wiring clean/protected as the seat hides most. Ended up having to move the amp a little more towards passanger side and cut off that front mounting tab as the seat just caught the back corner. Easy fix and the driver seat is back in w/out making contact. Got the sub mounted in front of glovebox and I'll be honest I'm not a fan of that sub box I got. Ended up pulling out the black/red speaker wire connector on side and leaving that whole pretty much open. Figure this sub has no port/air movement anyway and by not using that speaker port area - I could fit the wires in the sub box to where they weren't pulling off that connection.


Tomorrow - Passenger side panel / front speakers just need the 3 screws each / windshield / hood with DDM extension. I already checked out that hood extension, seems easy enough. That's it though, then throw the tires on the front and take this thing for a drive! Supposed to be 50's in the afternoon so would love to get it to that point and then home to my own garage!

Comments 7

  • Very impressive!!!👍. I don’t suppose you can help me out? In comparison to what you did it should be “is that all the help you needed with?” I’m hooking up 2 behind the head kicker led speakers only not using a amp. I’m looking at instructions and don’t really understand them. If I run left speaker wire and a right speaker wire, looking at the diagram it shows all color wires going into the pigtail with red and black wires them to the battery. So how do the left and right speaker wires that run from head unit tie in? Thanks.

    • Just thinking to myself , maybe there are 4 wires for color one 3 ground and 1 positive and 2 wires to connect speakers? I don’t have the speakers yet so I don’t know what wires come out of the back of speakers. Just trying to plan ahead. Can’t find any videos of a install other than with a amp. Am I getting warm? And do you wire the lights in parallel or series?

    • For the lights, you'll have +/- per speaker from amp to speaker, then a 4 wire that'll run to each speaker from your kicker LED controller. I had to buy this separate as the speakers had LED's but controller for them wasn't included with. Will put link below to the spool of 4 pin wire I got, but basically I ran the 4 wire for each speaker to the controller and had all wire 4 pin LED wires from the speakers tied into that controller. I don't play with the color much but can :) - let me know if you have other questions!


      4 pin wire - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08BZ9B4FC

    • kind of got it figured out. I think? You said amp I don’t have an amp just a aftermarket double din head unit. I’m running stock speakers in front and bought the kicker speakers with the remote for the pods behind your head. I ran 2 wire for the speakers and I guess I will have to run another 2 wires 1 for ground and was just gonna use the remote output wire blue with white stripe wire for positive from the head unit . This was all a after thought seeing how I had to take half the car apart I figured I would add the speakers then decided to get the led ones. I know you get the point looking at your pictures. So the only question I think I have now would be are the color wires long enough to go from rear speaker to rear speaker? Does it seem like I got it? Thanks for your help.

    • You may want to start a main forum thread and get input from others as well. Here's my thoughts though: If you add two more speakers to the stock system with no amp, your probably not going to like it. Head unit doesn't have a lot of power (maybe 20's and newer where pre-wired for headrest pods are different?) to push the speakers they come with let alone more.


      On LED wires - you'll need to extend from each speaker to the controller itself. All speaker red wires to controller red, all speaker blue wires to controller blue, etc... That's how I did it, not sure if you can run from speaker to speaker - if you try it let me know!


      I'm also no longer using the RC head unit. 4 speakers + sub still running off same amp I put in but added Bluetooth receiver as that ride command head unit signal is just weird and acted funny with things like the automatic volume adjuster on/off. Actually worked better with it on, was weird and intermittent issues so went with this receiver and done deal.

    • thanks for the feedback and I appreciate the time you took to explain. If it works out which I hope, I hate having to do things twice, I will let you know if it doesn’t then I can use the old Proverbial “ I told you so”. Thanks again.

  • Nice...