Ross Racing pistons and 2.2L Eagle rods

  • Thanks to all of you for stressing out for me lol. I am touched :)


    On a more serious side, I did notice the knocking, and after finding some metal particles on the oil I decided to not take aby chances and tear it down again. (Yes, I did lol)


    The results are that it really is the pistons causing the noise. Now, I do have zzp #82 valve springs, but after seeing the pistons, I will be calling the place who sold them to me to get answers... This is BS:



    Rod bearings are perfect, crank looks new, sleaves are new too, I cannot find any place where their seams to have wear of grinding except on the pistons. So that leads me to conlude that the pistons have too much clearance and its causing them to wear prematurly (this pic is after 20 miles of running not past 30mph, never went over 2500rpm.)

    Vi Engineered Turbo (V-Mount)
    Forged LE9
    DDM Works Fuel Rail
    RRR Oil Catchcan
    UPLOK + UPGUARD
    Assault Hub / Steering wheel
    DDM Works short shifter
    PRP Shifter Boot
    Cipher Race Seats and 4 point harness
    XO Luxury Verona 20x12 Toyo R888 315/35r20, 19x9.5 Toyo R888 265/35R19
    and more...

  • That is not good at all! Never like seeing things like this. I can tell your pistons were a bit on the loose side but that really doesnt explain metal in the oil. They didnt lose enough metal to contaminate the oil. I know you said your valve springs were super close, do you see any rubbing signs? The metal came from something else and i bet that was where the noise was from.

  • Man that does suck. I hope they take care of you. When I watched the video the first thing that ran thru my head was "i have heard about this knock before" and I knew I had to get ahold of you. I just didn't know what it was caused by. I hate to see anyone have a engine issue. Especially if I may have had some idea that it was not right.


    I hope you find the place that caused the metal in the pan. I bet you will find it. I have watched your progress and you seem to be meticulous in your work so I am sure you will find it.


    Keep us in the loop please. You may just save someone else from enduring this problem....

  • @Bugzilla I will be taking the head appart tonight. Quick up close inspection doesn't show any signs of rubbing from the springs, I took off the valves that has the closest spring clearance and nothing touched.


    There is no crankshaft play at all either (I didn't remove the crank but you never know).


    I will take the entire engine out and take it appart completly.


    Back to square 1...

    Vi Engineered Turbo (V-Mount)
    Forged LE9
    DDM Works Fuel Rail
    RRR Oil Catchcan
    UPLOK + UPGUARD
    Assault Hub / Steering wheel
    DDM Works short shifter
    PRP Shifter Boot
    Cipher Race Seats and 4 point harness
    XO Luxury Verona 20x12 Toyo R888 315/35r20, 19x9.5 Toyo R888 265/35R19
    and more...

  • Well, nothing much to report for now.


    The engine has been taken out of the SS, and completly dissasembled. I brought it to a performance machine shop, and they think that the slap noise was due to the piston skirt grabbing slightly at the bottom of the sleeve because the sleeve was too sharp. It wouln't affect an oem piston, but forged piston when cold with the higher clearance and longer skirt makes it happen.


    So the sleeve bottoms have been rounded out. The cranks rods and pistons are getting balanced, and the deck of the block is getting leveled, bore 4 was a bit longer than bore 1, so they will be getting the deck level and straight. Same with the head. The bores are going to get honed equal also, had 2 bores a bit smaller that the other 2, so that will get taken care of. Crank will get polished journals too.


    So end result is that there is no damage anywhere, everything measures in spec, piston clearance is in spec, once reassembled it should work perfect. Just 1 more week to get the machining work and balance done and its reassembly time.


    Pics for your daily engine porn fix:


    Vi Engineered Turbo (V-Mount)
    Forged LE9
    DDM Works Fuel Rail
    RRR Oil Catchcan
    UPLOK + UPGUARD
    Assault Hub / Steering wheel
    DDM Works short shifter
    PRP Shifter Boot
    Cipher Race Seats and 4 point harness
    XO Luxury Verona 20x12 Toyo R888 315/35r20, 19x9.5 Toyo R888 265/35R19
    and more...

  • Mine is done.



    Its installed in the SS and still getting broken in. I have ran it low rpm highway at 50mph for around 45 min, changed oil and filter, and now have about 100 miles on it with some blips on boost here and there, but still no WOT for now.


    Seems like its running ok, maybe on the lean side thought, not sure yet. The fact I have a polished head makes it a bit different from the cookie cutter tune, and I might have to swap the oem ECU to get a Haltec to really get the max of this engine now.


    I am heading to a race track on friday. We will see if it survives the day....


    If it does, I will call this a success.
    If it doesn't, I am not rebuilding my own engine again, gonna source it out.

    Vi Engineered Turbo (V-Mount)
    Forged LE9
    DDM Works Fuel Rail
    RRR Oil Catchcan
    UPLOK + UPGUARD
    Assault Hub / Steering wheel
    DDM Works short shifter
    PRP Shifter Boot
    Cipher Race Seats and 4 point harness
    XO Luxury Verona 20x12 Toyo R888 315/35r20, 19x9.5 Toyo R888 265/35R19
    and more...

  • Really nice job sir.
    I give you tons of credit -
    I haven't built an engine in 30 years - you know way back when you had points, condensers carburetors and only one cam.


    I have been watching and I am sure you will have a successful day at the track. Your attention to detail is impeccable.


    Have a great - safe track day
    Bring her home in one piece

    The more people I meet

    The more I love my Dog!

  • @iNewton so how did the track day run go?

    Pretty well. The SS is now very much faster than a T-rex in a straight line.
    But, I've seen that I've hit the max with stock fuel pump and had to drop PSI to around 12-13 or I would get lean in top 4th gear.


    Hence now I have replaced the entire fuel setup, and learning how the Haltech Elite works... :)

    Vi Engineered Turbo (V-Mount)
    Forged LE9
    DDM Works Fuel Rail
    RRR Oil Catchcan
    UPLOK + UPGUARD
    Assault Hub / Steering wheel
    DDM Works short shifter
    PRP Shifter Boot
    Cipher Race Seats and 4 point harness
    XO Luxury Verona 20x12 Toyo R888 315/35r20, 19x9.5 Toyo R888 265/35R19
    and more...