Bill,
I did the measurements as above. My front height is 6.7" and rear is 7" from the points you mentioned. The amount of showing thread on both shocks match what you recommended. So if the tire is bowed in at the top, what am I missing?
New Hahn/QA1 Bolt-In Spherical Coilovers!
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Paired with an upgraded ddm swaybar and the slingshot handles 50 percent better then stock. The sway bar adds the last needed update to the suspension. You notice the need after you upgrade shocks.
Not for a slow Sunday ride. Might have to crank the shocks down.
But if you drive it like you stole it... It's an easy recommended way to go.
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I am measuring to right below the top, per the pictures Bill put up
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That photo can be a little deceiving. He's actually measuring to the bottom of the tube. That SS is lowered to about 4.75". If you zoom in the numbers are easier to read.
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I just pulled some measurements off mine. You're pretty close to stock height using the upper part of the tube. You could probably go up .5" to bring the top of the wheels out a bit, but it won't make a lot of difference. The negative camber can give better traction in corners, and if your tires don't wear funny it's not a bad thing.
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I just pulled some measurements off mine. You're pretty close to stock height using the upper part of the tube. You could probably go up .5" to bring the top of the wheels out a bit, but it won't make a lot of difference. The negative camber can give better traction in corners, and if your tires don't wear funny it's not a bad thing.
Thanks for checking for me!!! Do you think its worth it to jack it up?
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That's up to you. Some folks like the lower ride. I like mine higher because the front spoiler drags going in and out of the parking lot of my favorite watering hole. It's hard look cool when everyone hears that nasty scraping noise.
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That's up to you. Some folks like the lower ride. I like mine higher because the front spoiler drags going in and out of the parking lot of my favorite watering hole. It's hard look cool when everyone hears that nasty scraping noise.
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Exactly!
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I am really bummed! I have these beautiful QA1 Shocks that were delivered yesterday and I can't install them. Had hernia surgery several weeks back and just had eye surgery for a detached retina. I'm healing well so it shouldn't be long.... waaaaahhh.... Okay. I'm finished whining. At least I have the parts to look at, even if it's with one eye!
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Looking good! Well, not really but you know... -
I am really bummed! I have these beautiful QA1 Shocks that were delivered yesterday and I can't install them. Had hernia surgery several weeks back and just had eye surgery for a detached retina. I'm healing well so it shouldn't be long.... waaaaahhh.... Okay. I'm finished whining. At least I have the parts to look at, even if it's with one eye!
Sorry Bro! Can you drive the Slingshot in your current condition? If so, drive over to Las Cruces & I'll install them for you...
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Sorry Bro! Can you drive the Slingshot in your current condition? If so, drive over to Las Cruces & I'll install them for you...
There you go Tripod to the rescue!
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Really appreciate the offer @'Tripod. Thank you very much as I know you're sincere. I should be good to go in less than a week so I'll wait. I want to have something to complain about and installing them should fit the bill.
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I just pulled some measurements off mine. You're pretty close to stock height using the upper part of the tube. You could probably go up .5" to bring the top of the wheels out a bit, but it won't make a lot of difference. The negative camber can give better traction in corners, and if your tires don't wear funny it's not a bad thing.
True. Lowering the machine has two primary effects on alignment: more negative camber, and also a slight increase in toe-in. Both changes (in moderation, such as from such slight lowering of 1/4" to 3/4") are moves in the right direction for an enhanced handling alignment "tune-up". As such, no further aligning would be needed unless one wishes to return to the conservative, stock suspension alignment settings...which for some, may be exactly what they wish to do for the reasons of aesthetics and/or tire wear, for these more aggressive enhanced handling settings can result in additional wear on sedately driven machines.
On the other hand, those who corner very hard and do so very regularly will find the stock camber and toe setting to be too conservative, causing excessive wear the outside edge of the tire. A bit more negative camber and toe-in not only helps such aggressive users' machines handle better, it also counteracts this tire wear aspect to a degree, and as such can actually enhance tire life on such aggressively driven machines.
So...re-align if you lower it (within the above-stated range) but still drive sedately. Don't bother if you lower it and drive it hard!
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@Bill from Hahn RaceCraft. Did a 250 mile ride Peak to Peak in CO and rode the Trail Ridge Raod. Your coil overs are freaking AWESOME. Had and awesome ride to 12,100 feet today.
