New items and cleaned parts. Assembly starts at post #98

I would say for sure you would need A large amp to power all those speakers. The issue with this many speakers is you start dropping impedance. And when you do you start heating up the amplifier. You will for sure need someone to help you with this if you want the best sound and keep it safe for the amp. The head unit may have some power on its outputs but if those speakers are the ones I think they are then you will be very disappointed without some serious power pushing them.

Just find a good stereo shop that will help you locally and I bet they will do all the calculations for you and get you an amp that will work.

I had three amps running 4 sets of speakers. I just retired all those and went to a JL 700/5 5 channel amp. It is 2 ohm stable and will allow mw to bridge some of the channels for more power and still stay in the safe range.

I mount all my amps under my seats. I use a 1/2 spacer to bring them up off the floorboard and if it rains the water would run under it and on out the drain holes. You have lots of room under the seats and if you mount it under the drivers seat you can slide the seat forward and make any crossover adjustments and you can grab your power from the battery to run the larger amp. And you can ground the amp using the seat bolt. It is about the best place for an amp.

There is a lot to figuring the load and impedance of speakers. And when you start bridging amps and setting crossover points and other things it gets a bit complicated.

I would seriously find a good local shop that would charge you for a hour of labor and give you the info on what amp is needed and how they would recommend you wire everything. Some shops will give you a wiring breakdown and what all the loads and impedance are.

All my installs are on the forum. Let me dig up some pics for ya.

I just use 9/16 nuts and then sit the amp on them and run the screws through them.

I use a pre-made car battery ground cable for the ground and it has the nice loop to run the seat bolt thru and the other end I cut and strip for the amp.

The power wire is a 4 gauge that i run thru the back wall to the battery and make sure you have a 40amp fuse on it by the battery. I solder and crimp the terminals on the power wire on the battery side and strip the amp side.

I have 8 RCA cables (2) 4 wire sets ran to the amps under the sling from the head unit.

I make all my speaker wires with heavy trailer plug wire. I use the big heavy wire. It can be bought with up to 7 or 8 wires in heavy black rubber covering. And it is pure copper. And it is damn near indestructible. You can run one to each pod and that way you can wires 2 speakers back to the amp with each cable and then you can decide how you want to wire the speakers back at the amp. The wire I used to connect the front speaker pods only had (4) 14 guage copper wires in it. That was plenty to get the job done...

I also run two battery and a isolator to charge back and forth between the two batteries. SO my install is going to be a bit different than most. I also had multiple amps and I am switching to a single multiple channel larger amp. It will be here tomorrow. So if y'all want me to take pictures i can and post them here. It may help some of you with the way I make my connections.

That should give you an idea of the way its laid out. I have made some changes over the years. But you should give you some ideas on how you would want to mount some of your stuff. ...

I am switching to a single amp. It has more power than the others combined. It will just simplify some of my wiring and also put a single amp under the drivers seat where I can make the adjustments when needed.

yep. It is quite a job to install all this stuff..

About to go out to my garage and get started putting all the cleaned up plastic panels back on. I have changed all the LED lights out with the new LEDs with the black circuit strips. And each panel that has a LED strip stuck to it has its own individual water resistant screw together disconnect. So no more cutting wires to remove panels. (Because everyone knows I have a tendency to strip the slingshot down on occasion)

I am also removing the back storage doors and just sealing the front with 1/2" plywood covers that will be covered in the same vinyl material the seats are. I am using a very thin layer of foam under it to give it a rounded softer look. I have the whole back plate off so attaching them will (or should) be easy.. I guess the fact that I haven't used either of my storage bins in over a year suggests that this won't be an issue.. And I don't ever check on the second battery. It's a sealed battery that you can't service. And I am positive I will have the back plate removed (plate behind the seat that doors hook to) at least 2 times a year cleaning everything. So I can keep a check on the spare battery at those times.

I just felt like I needed to explain my logic for removing the doors. They seal up when I run the screws into the 4 locations I have drilled thru them. But I still have so much pressure with the 12" JL SUBS they will cause the door to rattle when your really hammering out bass.

And I'm about to install the new JL 700/5 amp. I will pull the JL 300/1 that was driving my subs out. And now I will run the subs on the single mono channel on the 700/5. Then I will bridge the other 4 channels on the 700/5 down to 2 channels and run the front sets of speakers in the pods wired at 2ohm into ithose two channels. Then I will bridge the M400/4 down to 2 channels and use it to drive my 2 Memphis speakers in the new headrest pods.

Basically I have removed the seperate 300/1 sub amp and replaced it with a 700/5 5 channel amp that will be running in a 3 channel configuration. And now the M400/4 will be a 4 channel amp running as a 2 channel amp. Giving me 5 total channels of many many many hundreds of clean watts.