Since I'm broke down, I thought I would grease.my rear axle bearing, my question is do I have to remove the bearing so I can separate the needles from the cage or can I do it with bearing installed? I know the grease zerk is the proper fix but I don't wanna do anything that can hinder my warranty. So for now I'd like to do it the manual way until I'm out of warranty.
Rear needle bearing service
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You can pack the needles without removing the bearing. The inner race is separate. I don't know of anyone getting the bearing out without trashing it.
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So I'm assuming you can remove the seal on the bearing pull the cage clean the race and reinstall with in putter race in the arm correct?
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Also what loctight on the rear axle nuts? Tried getting hold of funcycle but he hasn't responded yet.
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So I'm assuming you can remove the seal on the bearing pull the cage clean the race and reinstall with in putter race in the arm correct?
Nah. It won't come apart like that. About all you can do is reach in with your fingers. The seal is part of the outer race. @Tripod posted a good graphic of the bearing on the other forum What can we take apart today ??? | Page 9 | Polaris Slingshot Forum
I'm off to watch my new granddaughter being born! I'll be out of pocket for the rest of the day day.
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That pic was actually from @Orangeman & I just shared it...
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The seal can come out of the bearing I've seen that done.
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Since I'm broke down, I thought I would grease.my rear axle bearing, my question is do I have to remove the bearing so I can separate the needles from the cage or can I do it with bearing installed? I know the grease zerk is the proper fix but I don't wanna do anything that can hinder my warranty. So for now I'd like to do it the manual way until I'm out of warranty.
No, you do not remove either bearing
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Also what loctight on the rear axle nuts? Tried getting hold of funcycle but he hasn't responded yet.
loctite 680 green is the one they are currently using on the double nuts, per their bulletin. (replaces the yellow stuff used on the single nut)
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Thank you!
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lactate 680 green is the one they are currently using on the double nuts, per their bulletin. (replaces the yellow stuff used on the single nut)
Who's providing the lactate?!?! (Although I generally avoid it when it's green... )
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Also what loctight on the rear axle nuts? Tried getting hold of funcycle but he hasn't responded yet.
I have not used any loctite on the 3 that I have tore down. Have not had one come loos yet.
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I look at loctite kinda like a condom, it's better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it
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I look at loctite kinda like a condom, it's better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it
I think that with the single nut it was really necessary but with the double nut it isn't IMHO
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Also what loctight on the rear axle nuts? Tried getting hold of funcycle but he hasn't responded yet.
I am just catching up with this thread. After you take the nut/nuts off and remove the pulley, you can pull the axle out. The pulley side is a two piece unit. The race and the needle bearing which does separate to clean and grease. The other side (not the pulley side) will not separate but can be greased by hand from the inner race that is a 2 piece with a gap in between, key word here is slowly. There is no fast way to this. There is a way to do with a grease gun, but I have never made the pieces to do it. Some people believe in the Lucas Red Tacky I like the green which has a higher Temperature rating. I am glad I saw this thread again because I have not greased mine since the swing arm recall and I should do this before the riding season gets here. This does not take long to do, less than an hour and the second time will be a lot less time. If you have the torque wrench and the socket this is fairly easy to do. Good luck
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can someone make a video of this process..