Thanks but doesn't show the passive crossover
Oem speaker wiring diagram?
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Thanks but doesn't show the passive crossover
Factory crossover. Picture courtesy @kenny_h from TDS, Nov. 2015:
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The woofer is NOT straight through. The tweeter has its own crossover on it. The woofer has a high pass cutout in the crossover and so does the other speaker. So your answer is that there is NO full range passthrough.
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Ok so if i want to run a 6.5 in place of the 5.25 it will only get the lower frequency
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Thanks Rabtech. Excellent information
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Ok so if i want to run a 6.5 in place of the 5.25 it will only get the lower frequency
Yes that is correct. You would have to bypass the crossover to get full range. -
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Those speakers should have come with a crossover. Use it. And bridge your 4 channel amp down to 2 channels and feed the Memphis crossover. Unhook the factory tweeter but leave it in to fill the hole.
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I just looked at that picture. Are you using the factory crossover and the memphis! Get ahold of the factory crossover and rip it out.
Now use the crossovers that came with the speakers. And drive them with the amp. You should be at 2 ohm when you drive both speakers.
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What amp are you using.
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If you are using the Alpine 4 channel then bridge it. And hook up both crossovers to the single right or left out. And you would be fine. (You don't have to run them red to black and black to red. ) Ignore that last sentence if it confuses you. It's basically saying you would be running them in series. And you don't have to.
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When you start messing with class D amps and big subs it really is critical to get the resistance correct. Don't get me wrong. It's better if you keep the resistance at the amps best output area. Most are 4 ohms and when bridged you can get to 2ohm. And then you have some serious amps that can get down to 1ohm.
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That all I got for tonight.
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Damn... I just got Rabtech'd...
Well...
No amp, just a standard head unit... Probably 50x4... Currently only using 2 channels. But yeah, when I get a chance, I'll open them up, take another picture and see what you think. The Memphis crossover is also being used... Not sure exactly how, these were already wired when given to me... Gently used
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You are going to need an amp. Even if it's a small one. That factory head unit is going to die if you try push these speakers to any degree. I'm surprised you haven't killed it already. Go to Walmart and grab you a small Kicker brand amp. That would be acceptable and cheap. And it will let you drive the amp with the high level output of the stock stereo... You have my favorite speakers. They have the best and crispest sound. You won't believe your freaking ears if you put some power behind them. They will come to life for sure.
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And mount the amp under the driver's seat toward the back. That way you can slide the seat forward and make any future adjustment. Also pop you a hole in the wall behind the seat to run you a short power wire to the battery to power it. And take a seat bolt out and hook the ground wire from the amp to to it... Don't ground to battery. Never understood why till I did that. And I picked up noise. So just ground to seat bolt...
The amp just needs to be fed the left and right speaker wires from the head unit. Don't worry about the line level RCA jacks. You won't be needing them. Then all you freaking need to do is run a wire back to each pod... Then just twist the amps level adjustment a bit to match the head unit. (you want to be able to use the volume control to its fullest. So if you have the amp turned up you would only be able to use 1 to maybe 5 instead of 1 to 40. So adjust the level down till you can crank the volume of the stereo up...
And one other thing. Most new amps have a sensing circuit that can sense when the stereo is on and turn themselves on and off. So you want to make sure your amp u pick can do that. That way you don't have to wire a 12v trigger wire..
If your just playing with the 4 Memphis speakers you showed me. Then don't worry about 4 channel amps. A regular 2 channel will work fine. Just carry a wire from the left and right output of the amp and wire it to each crossover. This will bring you resistance down from 4 ohm but like I mentioned before it will be fine in this situation. And if your amp is a 4 channel amp just bridge the amp down to two channels and the 2ohm load would be optimal. Either way it will work. Try to just buy a 2 channel amp and things will be easier for you...
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Trust me if you do this your Memphis M series speakers will scream. They just need a bit of a kick in the ass to set them in motion.
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And here is an example of a cheaper 2 channel amp. You would be using it at 2ohm if you wired the speaker's like I mentioned above. (And the factory head unit isn't even close to 10 watts of real power) You would have up to a true 60 watt with this amp wired that way at 2ohm....
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_…15145&awdv=m&awug=9012630
I haven't personally used this amp but I feel comfortable telling you it would make those Memphis speakers perform like you want.....
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And if you want me to mail you some good power wire and ground wire just message me. I have plenty with fused ends. No sense in buying a amp install kit when I have plenty of wire and fused ends laying here. And I have some good speaker wire you can have. You will need 4 speaker wires. 2 wires to the amp from the speaker pod feeds . And then a wire back to each pod from the amp to drive them. So let me know. I'll grab a shirt and some wire and mail it to you. You just need to buy an amp.