if your looking at this post and wondering what the he!! is wrong then let me explain.... As its referred to here.... The dark side has my original post. And I have pulled some of the content over here. Some rainy day I will have time to fix all the pictures and put them in order... So far I just haven't had time... I think most people that look at this thread can see the pictures and get the info they need....
I JUST WANTED TO MAKE SURE I HAD A FEW PLACEHOLDERS TO GET MY THREE THREADS REPLACED I WILL GET THEM CLEANED UP HERE SOON.
Here are pictures of the preparation. Ill post them as I go. I will go back and put some notes on each picture later.
1. Starting off I removed the hood buy removing the two bolts on each side. I also jacked the front up and placed jack stands under it and removed the wheels.
2. I removed the (3) 10mm Bolts holding the air cleaner box and loosened the flat head on the throttle body. Also unplugged the hose front the top of the valve cover and disconnect the air temp sensor. You can remove the assembly now. Make sure you put a cover over the throttle body.
3. Another view of it removed.
4. Now its time to remove the wheel splash panels. You might as well get a T30 and a T25 and get ready to use them a bunch. Most are T-30 screws. I actually removed to many screws. You only need to remove the 4 front bolts. The other 4 just remove the darker black part from the main piece. Also there is a pop rivet behind the panel that needs to be removed. And there is one bolt on top where the dash connects.
5. This is just another view of the whole panel. Notice I removed the windshield and the mirror, It just makes everything safer. And you won't bump your head on the mirror when sitting on the floor. And as a bonus it makes it easier to lay tools on the dash....
6. And a view with it removed.
7. Here is the part that baffled me for a while. I removed the seat because it was easier for me to figure it out. There is several screws that hold the panel on that are in the floorboard. There is also one in the back area of the seat that is hid. You will have to pull the panel outward to get to it. You will think your going to break it to revel the last back screw.
[8. This is just a close up of what you will be seeing once the panel is off. Just a heavy muffler.
9. Here are the three bolts that hold the muffler to the manifold. I didn't remove and spring at the is point. I just backed the three out and the muffler just eased downward. Once all three were out it was easy to remove the springs and set the muffler out.
10. Once the muffler is out of the way you can easily see where the hole is that needs a rock guard installed. I have mine ready to bolt on.
11. This is just a detailed shot after the muffler is removed.
12. Here you will see the 13mm nuts to be removed so that the exhaust manifold can be removed. Make sure you unplug the O2 sensor also.
13. A view without the exhaust manifold. Looking a lot cleaner under the hood....
14. Another shot of the area with all the exhaust components removed.
15. The front clip need to be removed for easier access. There is (2) 13mm bolts and (2) 8mm bolts that have to be backed out. Have someone there to slide the front bumper off.
16. Remove the black air scoop. It is a challenge to remove these simple plastic pop rivets. You can get to the back side of all of them so just pop the center back thru the face of them. Much easier than trying to pull them out with a flat head screwdriver. I think there is (6) you have to remove.
17. Not sure about stage 1. However on stage 2 it was recommended to change the plugs out. You will need to unplug all four coils and remove the 10mm bolt on each one. I put each coil back in where they come out originally. I don't figure it matters but that is just what I do.
18. Here is another stage 2 item that has to be changed. You will need to remove the (2) 10mm bolts that hold the fuel rail in. Unplug the plug above it and pull the rail and injectors gently out of the intake.
19. You can now gently flip over the rail to expose the injectors and the clips that hold them to the rail. You can also unplug the wiring connector to each on.
20, Just wanted remind to keep the engine ports covered up till something is bolted back to them.
21. This pan was a bigger to remove. I had to take the nuts off the transmission mount and the engine mounts. I jacked the engine up just enough to get the pan to slide out. I know some people would have put grease on the drill bit and trusted that no shavings fell into the pan. But I just can't sleep knowing there was a shaving down in the pan
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