swapping out for 2006 LE5

From what I know, the 2 bar tune expects to have the 8 psi spring in there

You are right man. Alpha leaves the other springs out because they don't want someone messing it up and blowing a motor. They may have extras laying around. Id email them or call the shop. Or you can buy them online.

I have changed my springs a couple of times. It's not too bad, after you've done it once. I recommend buying 2 long bolts that assist you in getting the cap secured. Look at the ones you pull out and buy 2 around 1 inch longer. You'll understand why these longer bolts are so helpful when you go to put the cap back on.

I've talked to Bob quite a bit about running at the high end of 2 bar and the possibility of having to go to a 3bar setup. He says you can actually run above 2bar boost (14.7 psi) and the tuning would still be ok without switching to 3bar. You could probably run two bar and go up around 16 psi if you think the motor will hold.

Would the tune need to be changed from what you're running now if you run 15lbs of boost? Maybe. It really depends on how your AFRs look as you start climbing the boost ladder. It's possible the tune would work just fine. It's also possible some fuel would need to be added at boost levels over 12lbs.

I'd run the red and natural first. That's what "should" be installed right now if you're running the header and most recent Alpha tune. Then go green and see how everything looks; should be fine with 06-07 and good head studs. Then there is green and natural. Couple of other steps. The last step would most likely be green and yellow.

Rough / quick guide on boost numbers to expect from what my machine does...

Red - Precision says 6psi max; actual with header is around 8 to 8.5psi.

Red and Natural - Precision says 7.5psi; actual is 9.5 to 10psi.

Green - Precision says 9psi; actual is 11 to 11.5 psi.

Seeing a trend here...? So we can just take a blind guess on where the max psi would be on 2bar tuning.

The green, yellow, natural combo should put you right between 15-16psi.

Just keep in mind, this is how my machine acts with a short tip on the Alpha side exhaust. Also keep in mind the boost levels get around 1psi higher than what you typically see when flying in 4th gear. At over 6000rpms, I'll see 11lbs of boost on some laps - 9.5 to 10psi is what I see normally.

Hopefully this info is helpful. I like the direction you are going and hope to see good results.

Thanks Trav
That was pretty informative - especially for someone like me who has just ventured into my first turbo machine. So far everything has been flawless 6+K but we are going to the next step with a built motor and higher boost.
Any and all info just helps me understand were I am going.

The tune will scale proportionately as it sees more boost. You can get above the 14.7 PSI of boost. You should be able to get 17 psi out of the MAP sensor.
Your going to run out of fuel pressure when you start pushing above 10PSI. However it's not hard to get around that.

That fuel issue can be fixed for $104.00. But now you will have another issue...the clutch isn't going to hold above 10PSI in either of the top 2 gears. So get your wallet ready to spend some $ on a heavy clutch setup. @MACAWS you have everything you need ordered to complete the path to an easy 12.5 PSI of boost ...

Quote from rabtech

@MACAWS you have everything you need ordered to complete the path to an easy 12.5 PSI of boost ...

I am following your lead to the letter.
Still need the spring info so I can get them ordered everything else is in the works.
Looking forward to pushing the GO pedal and watching the rubber fly in my rear view.

Now shouldn't you be resting up?

I just had to stop standing on my foot. I strapped an ice pack to the bottom of it and it's not hurting right now. Im watching the New Pyramid game show....

The clutch slip issue and fuel starvation may not affect everyone that venture into the next level of boost (anything above 9 psi). The reason is because in lower gears your not putting an excessive load on the engine and your not loading up the transmission and making it pull hard.

So if your not into pushing the SS hard in 4th and 5th you may get away with the stock fuel pump and clutch. But it won't work if you like to lay into the gas pedal at 80 and watch it pull the needle past 120....

A few of us on the west coast are running 10 -14 psi of boost and are not having any clutch issues. These are hard miles with myself running several tracks days. If you are going to pull the motor and shoot for a number over 350hp at the rear wheel, it wouldn't hurt the just replace the clutch. For experimental purposes (this is if you are going to build your stock SS motor and put it in this winter) it would be awesome to see you push the stock clutch and find the breaking point before doing the DDM upgrade.

I also haven't heard of anyone having fuel delivering issues at the boost level listed above on the side of the country. Most people have realized not to push their vehicle hard under 2 bars of shown fuel on the gauges to make sure not to have a sloshing issue. I have ran my vehicle hard on the track on the way down to 1 bar and haven't seen any issues. I wouldn't do it on purpose though if it is easy avoidable.

What you are explaining above is most likely a fuel enrichment / tuning issue. We have made some adjustment to the Alpha 2bar tune lately to help with some fuel bog issues that some people are having. When it "bogs out", look at you AFR number and tell us what your are seeing. If you are seeing low 10s or numbers in the 9s, you probably need to research to make sure you are on the most current Bob tune for this setup.

It's really important that you get a AFR and boost gauge installed. These numbers are critical in diagnosing issues and overall performance of the machine. AEM Failsafe is a really good choice.

It is very possible that your issue is related to the port and polish. Probably not on the intake manifold, but others have had weird performance issues with the throttle body port and polish. I'd make a new thread and see if people can chime in that had / have a similar issue.

Sounds like you're on the most current and correct tune.

Left the key on to long and power steering turned off I think.

That code is explained below...
This code is just a timeout feature for EPAS after sitting for over 5 minutes jamming to music (etc.) in accessory position, or at least with key on and engine not running also. Code will clear itself after a couple of restarts.

Make sure you keep the stock O2 sensor where it is. It is still working with the ECM in closed looped sections on the tune. You will need to add another bung for a wideband sensor 6-12 inches after the turbo in the exhaust.

I personally like the AEM Failsafe gauge. It shows both boost and AFR reading on one gauge and also records logs. Logging will be really important to you, if you are going to swap motors and raise boost. It is vital info in making sure the tune is correct and that boost psi is in line to what you expect with wastegate spring changes.
AEM Failsafe

I have been watching water temp and oil pressure
I am taking oil pressure from just below the head.
Most of the time I run under 185 degrees, but when you are hard on it and the temp goes up over 195 you can see a significant drop in oil pressure.
As a precaution I am adding the DDM oil cooler set up. It will add 2 quarts of oils plus help drop operating temps and maintain pressure.

Check with Dave at DDM
They are installing one when they swap out my motor

@jluna317

Oil cooler is not a must if you are just running on the street. There is no way you are going to be wot long enough to cook the oil.

If you track it, its a must.

For the AEM failsafe, you will need to get the bung welded in at a muffler shop. Its not hard to do, and should not cost more than around 50$ at the most.

If you have no space for the o2 sensor, leave it unplugged off the vehicule. These sensors are very sensitive to damage from impacts, and are also heated, so just leaving it plugged in out of the exhaust is a very bad idea.