Wiring speakers and use of a Bluetooth amp

I was originally going to use a Lanzar Round Marine radio with video display and a Clarion XC2410 amp. I was too lazy to ever get started running the dedicated battery connection to power the XC2410 amp when I came across the Boss Audio MC900B Bluetooth amp that has a 15A fuse, meaning I could hook it directly to the Slingshot's radio wiring which can handle up to 25A. I ordered the radio harness from Slingmods and and the MC900B from Amazon and finally got started.
The attached PDF shows what I did to route my speaker wires and how i ran the wires into the Infotainment cubby area. In an earlier project, I posted what I did to insulate the cubby area to keep engine heat out and protect the electronics I was thinking about installing, so I didn't want to start making holes in the cubby area that might allow heat back in. The PDF file also provides some tips on using presentation software such as MS Power Point or the free Open Office software's Impress Presentation to design a printable template for use in cutting a radio mounting plate.
Hope this helps someone.
A final tip - It's important to keep your wire polarity straight. Reversing a speaker wire's connection can cause muddled sound. The Copper colored lead in speaker wire is customarily the Negative wire and the clear wire is usually the positive wire.
RadioWiring.pdf

Quote from Neosolidus

even if the stock harness is made to handle 25a and your amp only uses 15a it is highly recommended to use a dedicated power line.

Stock wiring uses low gauge wiring not intended for long term sustained loads like an amplifier would require.

If you use stock wiring to power your amp you are very likely to melt the wires and unleash a type of electrical gremlin that you don't really want.

An amp kit is too cheap of a peace of mind not to use it.

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I understand where you're coming from, but I've also learned that a 15A fuse means the device should use significantly less than that. Based on the wiring used to supply power to the factory radio in the Slingshot, that wiring, IMO, is large enough to handle a 15-20A draw. Assuming a properly sized fuse will typically be operated at about 70% of its rated capacity, a 10A fuse would normally be used on a circuit that draws around 7A, so a 15A fuse should only be handling around 10-11A under normal conditions and should be well within the amperage limits of a circuit fused for 25A. As long as the current remains does't exceed about 70% of the fuse's rating, the associated wiring should be fine. I know Polaris has some very tight bean-counters (look at the original headlight circuit placing over 20A current draw not including the 1A or so required for the headlights' shutter operation and then using a 20A relay "protected" by a 30A circuit breaker - that worked out well, didn't it?), but just looking at the wiring for the radio power, the wire clearly looks capable of handling a device fused for 15-20A, and hopefully the rated 25A.
If I were to move to an amp that draws significantly close to the circuit rating, I would definitely feel the need to run a direct-battery circuit for power. Hopefully, I won't end up in an "I told you so" situation.

Quote from MiM

I've got a similar amp from Planet Audio... There are like 3 or 4 versions of this amp from what I saw on Amazon...

Left my cubby storage and this controller fit perfectly between the top panels in the center dash!

I like what you did with the BT controller. I may try doing the same if I keep the amp. Once I install my turbo, though, I want to install my Boost gauge, controller and Digital voltmeter and maybe a small cubby space in the current cubby area.

Quote from Ruptured Duck

nice write up sir. Thank you.Let us know what you think of the amp over time.

Since it is designed to be a 4 channel Bluetooth amp, I have mixed feelings about it as installed. It is grossly over-rated in terms of claimed power and it simply doesn't have enough power to drive the speakers at a loud enough level to hear music at Interstate speeds or anything much over 40-45 mph. Sine there is no way to balance the four speaker outputs, the front speakers can't be heard at any volume unless you get out and stick your head next to them , so why even use them?
If it can be bridged to run in 2 channel mode at a higher power output, then the behind-the-head speaker location of the SSV Works speaker pods will be loud enough to hear and I will be happy with the unit.
The Bluetooth works fine and reconnects to my phone each time I start the engine and turn on the ignition switch. As I said earlier, I also like the ease of installation since the factory power harness can be used.
If I can't run the amp in bridge mode, then I will be looking for an amp with more power and a stand-alone BT controller if the amp doesn't include BT.

Quote from MiM

@BKL, it may depend on your speakers; I'm running 3.5 inch and 6.5 inch Memphis Audio speakers and they are loud! They are in the front stock pods... I hear them well, even on the highway at 90mph+ (I have an f4+ windshield).

The front speakers may be part of the problem. I added some cheap Boss Audio 5.25" 3-way speakers in place of the factory 5.25" and just disconnected the wiring on the remaining 2 factory speakers. In the Hoop Pods behind my head, I have Rockford Fosgate 6.5" 3-way speakers several other folks on here have. The RFs are 91 dB sensitivity and the BAs are almost the same at 90 dB. After I soldered each speaker connection, I did a simple continuity test by connecting the speaker cables to a 9V battery and got a simple noise showing the circuit conducted electricity, but when I hooked up the stereo, the front speakers just didn't sound as loud as I had expected. I just may need to do a little troubleshooting.

Since I felt the Boss Audio BT amp lacked enough power to hear my speaker setup (2 Boss Audio 4" 4-way speakers in Select Increments Versa Pods mounted above my dash and 2 RF 6.5" 3-way speakers mounted in SSVWorks Hoop Pods) at Interstate speeds, I went ahead and installed the Lanzar Marine round AM/FM/BT radio w/a 3" color display. I mounted it in a 1/8" aluminum plate I had cut with a water-jet. I also mounted a Clarion 2410 4-channel amp, but haven't yet wired it up.
Unfortunately, the Lanzar unit had several issues I didn't like. While it seemed to have a little more power than the BA BT amp, it still lacked enough volume at Insterstate speeds. It's a PITA to switch it into Display mode, so I never set that feature up. Occasionally, the MP3 playback feature seems to go into double-speed playback and requires turning off and restarting the unit to get regular playback working again. To top everything off, the unit requires a remote to activate many features such as Random MP3 playback, Loudness, Balance/fade, etc. The remote itself is not illuminated, so it's a PITA to use at night.
Due to the various problems I had with the Lanzar unit, I bought a Planet Audio PGR35B Gauge MECH-LESS Multimedia Player (no CD or DVD), Receiver, with Audio Streaming. It supports MP3 playback from a USB stick and has a little more power output than the Lanzar unit as well as RCA outputs for an amp. Unfortunately, it uses a 3" hole instead of the 3.5" hole the Lanzar needed, so I created a new panel using 1/4" Black PVC foam board. The PA radio does NOT have a remote I would probably lose and allows everything to be set using nested menus and the radio panel. It also seems to have a more sensitive radio receiver and picks up more stations than the Lanzr did. I placed a marine radio antenna inside the radio cubby. I also cut the panel to hold a small digital Voltmeter, my Innovate SCG-1 Boost/AFR gauge/controller (still waiting to install the turbo until my rear axle gets fixed) and a small storage space made from a short piece of 2" PVC pipe capped off with a cut-off piece of the foam PVC board. I still plan on wiring the Clarion amp soon. Here's a pic of the new setup -

Quote from VV11B40

What oem speaker wires did you take into? I'm also Installing the boss head unit.

I had to run my own speaker wires since my 2015 Base Slingshot didn't have any speaker wiring.

I used some 16ga connectors with leads from Amazon (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A6LTK44/). These allow me to easily disconnect any speaker if needed.