New Boss Audio Double-Din MARINE Radio MRCP9865A

    Wish I came back to the forum before I went surfing the web for an amp. For that price and a fellow members opinion I would have went with it. I ended up buying the KICKER KMA360.4 4x90w 4-Ch Weather-Resistant Full-Range Amp; RoHS Compliant. I like your price better ☹️ but I don’t believe I made a bad choice just expensive and could have spent the money saved elsewhere. On the ferrules for the end of the wires going into the amp should I buy the long ones or shorter ones? On Amazon they call them type a and type b. I’m assuming by the pictures the type means length correct me if I’m wrong.

    Did you hook the leds to front pods or rear hump. I ask because I have the same speakers in the humps which I just recently purchased and they have sealed wires for the speaker wires coming out the bottom, but you would have to drill another hole for the led wires in each hump pod which I really didn’t want to do being there are truly sealed at this point So I just tucked those wires in the hump and if and when I replace the front speaker pods I can always swap the leds to the front and buy the kickers without leds for the rear. Unless you have a solution?

    I actually hooked the LEDs straight into the speaker wire while it's running the speaker. I choose only to do the blue wire because I only wanted blue LEDs, but the speaker voltage is enough to power the LEDs (at least when it's turned up some).


    I dunno about the ferrules type a vs b. I just went with straight blade style connectors.


    And that's a good amp too. Kicker amp to Kicker speakers should be good.

    Thanks I didn’t know that the voltage from the speaker wire was enough… I think I will do that myself till I switch over the front pods. I knew someone here would come up with an idea, their seems to be a lot of creative people on this forum. So the blue wire you wired let’s say to the stripe speaker wire being + and the black wire to the solid speaker wire being ground? Just want to be clear before I go fu$@@&g with the wires. Thanks for the idea. I have them, mind as well use um for now. Thanks again.

    Quote from Fullthrottle#1

    Ok I got it chavey2 didn’t think so at first, your right you really gotta crank it up to get it to light up!

    Or what I call "normal volume". :D


    And yep, since I wanted just blue light (since my SS is white and blue), just the blue and black wires. You can make different colors by making different connections, but no color changing.

    Quote from chavey2

    Or what I call "normal volume". :D


    And yep, since I wanted just blue light (since my SS is white and blue), just the blue and black wires. You can make different colors by making different connections, but no color changing.

    The kicker controller for those LED's was pretty cheap, think $25 - more wiring though and if not changing color your method is definitely a cleaner install!!! Love it man!


    Amp wise, I'm pretty happy with this Soundstream 5 channel. Have the same kicker speakers running to the 4 channels - front/rear and then sub channel for my 10" JL sub and it sounds pretty good now that I got ride command out of the picture and using the bluetooth receiver for amp signal. I got another one of these for my boat and they were right at $200, prices seem to be a bit higher looking them up now - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B9KHHI2

    I read lots of info about where people put there amps and I have seen lots of YouTube videos where people put them under the glove box or ripped the whole back side off where the fin and camera are located where they put several amps, that looked like to much work , but a nice location. And also people put them under the passenger seat as well as driver seat. Now let’s get to the point. This new kicker kma360.4 may not fit where I wired for and planned on putting it, under the front driver seat. Just got through with a piece of cardboard and tape measure. Without taking the seat out yet and a wild guess is that it may fit barely either length wise or across if it is mounted all the way to the front just before the hump in the floor. Mounting it across would leave me no access to the controls and mounting it front to back won’t allow for spacers for airflow under the unit. Also the seat tapers towards the back and I may not have clearance where the speaker wires are located. Dilemma 101. Maybe I should have bought a small little Clarion. Any creative suggestions? I sure would love to keep it under the driver seat. Maybe someone here will make my day and tell me it will fit and give me some direction on how to install it there. Thanks for your wisdom and any brutal honesty. This is my first stereo with an amp that I have ever installed. I have installed many stereos with equalizers when they were “in”back in the 70’s , 80’s and 90’s. This is a whole new ball game for me.Through cut up arms to bashed fingers to every bone in my body aching I’m still having fun doing it and learning a lot from everyone’s post and pictures. This forum and the people on it are the reason I am starting to enjoy adding after market accessories. Listening to people like me with problems of there own and from beginners to experts jumping in to lend a hand. I can’t thank you enough. The more I educate myself with questions the more I can also join you and pay it forward!

    Quote from Fullthrottle#1

    3GunSteve, are you saying that you have the same amp that I bought, and when you say cubby are you referring to the cubby area under the seat or the storage cubby?

    Different amp - I am referring to under driver seat though in that recess area or where it bowls out etc...


    This pic was while I was still using line converter and ride command signal... bluetooth now and put the front kickers into real pods...

    Quote from Fullthrottle#1

    your amp looks like it may be a little shallower than the kicker. Nicely done! Very neat job. What are the 2 red heavier gauge wires coming from the front for?

    That red one from front plugs in between the RC unit and the RC amp and then had h/low signals split off for front/rear/sub - taking one signal and splitting it so many times and all that soldering was just asking for issues and I got them. Ended up trying to add a line converter and while it got better, still sucked. Marine bluetooth receiver is my ticket and now I just leave RC on data/system info for sling. That black one to front is some cable loom plastic for that front speaker pod.


    Got it . I’ll keep plugging at it, eventually I will get there. The pictures helped a great deal. Sometimes when trying to describe something things sometimes get misinterpreted. Thank you guys for both your time and knowledge.🤝