GM performance information and manual

Quote from gpcustoms

Correction. Somethings wrong with the link. I will try and see about making a down load available, Sorry

Is this it?!

https://docs.google.com/file/d…N0hrQ2M/edit?pref=2&pli=1

Word of warning about this guide:

1) it makes replacing the rods look like a piece of cake. It's not. You will need special tools to do this properly, you will curse a lot, very probably cut yourself a couple of times (Warning, head sides are razor sharp), make a mess in the process of bleeding the coolant from the engine... You will spend a lot of time cleaning. And cursing. And cleaning more.

2) they don't mention the cleaning part for the block's deck and the head's deck, but it needs to be done. If you think of using anything abrasive to clean gasket material off of there, well, don't. really, just don't. carb cleaner, eye and lungs protection (big vented area unless you like Cancer) a cloth and patience. Lots of Patience... (You see the patern lol)

3) the bolt torque for the Cam gears are wrong for the LE9. on the LE9 it's a torque to yield so you need a angle dial.

4) Bore size for our 2.4 is 88mm not 86mm...

5) Eagle rods strongly recommend not just torqueing the bolts for the rods, but calculating bolt stretch. This requires an expensive bolt stretch dial (ARP has one, around 200$).

6) The chain tensioner is different on our Le9. to unload it for reinstallation, it requires taking out a C Clip, removing the tensioner from the casing, using a vice to hold the base in place, push down on it and turn it clockwise (very difficult, its very stiff). at some point it will "clic" in place. reinstall compressed tensioner in housing, re-install C Clip.

7) When I suggested to Wiseco using the same OEM rings I had on my 3000 miles engine on their newly made forged piston like the guide tells you to, the guy on the line almost choked to death and told me NO. You don't. No. Rings are different, OEM rings are shit and they are not gapped correctly for boost.
This means: you need to gap the new rings to the bore of each cylinder, which means you need a ring grinder (cheap = 100$, good - 350$) and good feeler gauge (14$). Oh, and yeah, TIME. lots of it.
I have been assured that if the engine has low mileage, its not the end of the world to not hone the sleeve for the new rings. He told me it would probably burn a bit more oil in the 1st 1K miles, and would settle afterwards. I have 4K miles on mine, and I can still see the cross pattern on the cylinder walls, so it makes sense that there is still some bite in the sleeve to grind the rings into position and perfect seal.

Special tools needed for this job they don't talk about:
- Precise torque wrench (go with a AC DELCO digital dial) 1/2 inch = 100$
*this is a must if you dont have a digital dial, you are just guessing and this will not work with this job.
- ARP bolt stretch dial = 200$
- ARP Tapered piston guide 88mm (this is the best way to drop the pistons back in the block with no damage to the rings) = 50$
- Rod Vice = 200$ OR if you have a decent vice, you can use wood blocks to hold the rods in place.
*You don't want to damage the finish of the rods and you need a vice because it's impossible to use the bolt stretch tool when the rods are in the engine. You will hold the rods down in a vice, torque them to reach the stretch listed, then using the digital torque dial, you will be able to know exactly what torque each bolt needs to be stretched correctly. Once installed, you will reproduce the torque for each bolt so you know your bolt stretch is in spec. I did mention a lot of patience right ?
- Proform ring grinder = 100$
- If you do replace the rods and head studs for ARP, you will need 11mm and 13mm 12 point sockets, because everyone know 12 point bolts look RACE... (11mm - rods, 13mm - head studs). = 20$
- Feeler gauge that goes to 0.002 inch = 15$
- Angle indicator = 20$
- Shitload of towels. I am serious. Draining the coolant from the engine on our SS make a ridiculous MESS because the drain plug is UNDER the water pump, which sits right OVER a cross member, so there is no clean way to catch the flood, it will hit the frame and splash everywhere. I mean EVERYWHERE. More cursing here. Unless you decide to pull the engine out, then you are ok. but technically you can do this job with the block in the SS.

In addition, you will need some stuff from your GM dealer:
- OEM head gasket
- OEM Rod Bearings
- New head bolts or ARP head studs (recommended)
- Technically you should replace the valve cover seal but maybe not on low milage engine
- Sealant
- Camshaft bolts. These are torque to yield, they cannot be reused.

Wow, @iNewton! I though I was pretty good until I read your post, above. I'm adept at the cussing part, and I have lots of towels. I do believe I'll leave the rest to a professional!