Attention Turbo Users. You might want to check this.

Hope your having fun with your boosted sling!

Quote from Tripod

There are 10 bolts around the cylinders - those are 22 lb-ft; the 4 bolts at front of engine are 26 lb-ft. I'll come back with a pic for torque sequence...

Don't forget after you do the 22 lb-ft, you need to turn the bolt another 155°. Missing that step will cause all sorts of issues! Stock junk GM bolts only. I do the ARP studs to 75 lb-ft (in steps) even though ARP recommends more.

Just installed head studs on another sling this morning. The center OEM studs were not loose but they were easier to break loose than the rest.

Can somebody clarify: Do I understand correctly when you are replacing the head studs you are doing so without removing the head and without replacing the head gasket? Want to make sure I got that right.

Thanks.

You are correct. But in order to do it the right way, you have to pull one bolt at a time. Do not pull all the head bolts and then put the studs in. Pull a bolt, put in a stud, and TQ in place. Then move on to the next one. Do it in the correct sequence as posted earlier by @Tripod.

Quote from Bugzilla

Don't forget after you do the 22 lb-ft, you need to turn the bolt another 155°. Missing that step will cause all sorts of issues! Stock junk GM bolts only. I do the ARP studs to 75 lb-ft (in steps) even though ARP recommends more.

Did I read that correctly? I am thinking about replacing mine with ARP studs as well. Instead of the 22ft lb and another 155 degree turn you torqued yours to 75ft lbs instead???

Here is a quickie I made up for one of our customers.

When doing the head studs one at a time you go straight to 80 ft lbs.

If you have removed the head completely and replaced the head gasket you follow the sequence and torque them up to 80 ft lbs in 3 equal steps.

80 divided by 3 = 26.6 ( 27 ) torque the 10 studs in sequence

26.6 x 2 = 53.3 ( 53 ) torque the 10 studs in sequence

Last step = 80 ft lbs. torque the 10 studs in sequence

Valve Cover bolts torqued to 10 NM be careful not to over tighten.

Not sure I get why you can torque the same size bolts almost 4 times tighter than manufacturer recommendation? Would it make sense to torque the stock bolts a bit more than recommended?

Quote from Flybuddy

Not sure I get why you can torque the same size bolts almost 4 times tighter than manufacturer recommendation? Would it make sense to torque the stock bolts a bit more than recommended?

If i read this right it appears its pretty close to mfg spec. I think the 155 degrees final pull is putting it close to 80lbs that DDM is referring to..

Quote from Flybuddy

Not sure I get why you can torque the same size bolts almost 4 times tighter than manufacturer recommendation? Would it make sense to torque the stock bolts a bit more than recommended?

Quote from rabtech

If i read this right it appears its pretty close to mfg spec. I think the 155 degrees final pull is putting it close to 80lbs that DDM is referring to..

Yes @rabtech I am not the man to talk to about Math but essentially when you are tightening the bolts another 155 degrees on top of the original 22 ft lbs quoted above you are torquing them down to a higher value.
Hope that helps @Flybuddy

When @Dave@DDMWorks returns to his desk he can calculate the figures if needed.

The Main thing here is Following the directions that each manufacturer is kind enough to provide.
Do as they say and everything will work well.

Thx guys...seems like an oddball way to torque (bring your protractor?) and a better chance at having uneven torque values. Jeff, did you get any more superchargers in?

Quote from Flybuddy

Thx guys...seems like an oddball way to torque (bring your protractor?) and a better chance at having uneven torque values. Jeff, did you get any more superchargers in?

This comes in handy with those bolts -

More supercharger cores are shipping next week to us!

I just installed ARP headstuds today as well and I found several that were loose compared to the others. great quality control... not!