Posts by Goats_Hogs

Attention Vendors. Please email robert@rabtech.com any instruction manuals you may have for your products. They will be added to the FILEBASE tab for members to access.

    I had planned on putting the oil sensor in place with a T adapter I bought, however, I had got it off ebay and it's not NPT as it stated, sigh. Only place open tomorrow that will have one is Summit Racing in Arlington, nice little 2 hour drive to get there, but don't have time to wait on shipping before I leave for MV.


    The threaded hole in the block (and head) are 12 x 1.75 MM. I had a NPT "Y" I was going to use. I'm in process of doing the same thing. I've got an adapter to go into the block, then the sensor for the gauge. I'm going off the back of the head for the Oil light, there's enough pressure there to make it happy even though it reads less than at the block.

    Yep sitting on the porch looking at the view having a glass of wine. So fun that you caught up to us and you knew who I was. My rear facing camera broke on the Parkway so that’s gone. Still have the forward facing one. That Parkway was pretty fun But I caught myself hugging the center line a couple of times. That’s a no no. Have fun tonight... ;)

    Sorry about the camera, but those things happen. If you have found yourself hugging the center line on the parkway, be really careful if you hit the Tail of the Dragon or Moonshine 28 (US 129 and US 28). Those are VERY hard to stay in your own lane and pushing it, parkway is child's play compared to those. I've been riding those roads for nearly 35 years, they are challenging but also the most fun! Have fun, stay safe, and live to tell the tale for many years! Enjoy!

    It looks like Port D and Port B according to the labels on those wires.


    Everyone agree??

    Rab is correct. I said the wrong thing below! It is B and D!

    I have my radio out now while working on an unrelated mod for mine. The blue plug goes into the port above the blue/green dot. The other plug (think it was orange?) goes into the port above the yellowish dot.

    Mateo I put mine together last night, took it for a test drive, and didn't look at the backup camera at all. I did this morning, but I had it plugged into C instead of D, for the camera.

    The driver and passenger of an autocycle must wear helmets UNLESS the autocycle is completely surrounded. [TCA 55-9-302 (b)(2)]


    This is more than a little vague. How and who understands the meaning?

    Exactly what I thought. Top? Yeah, that goes without saying. So... doors.... with windows? I'll just wear the lid if topless, and if the MeanSling is on I'll take my chances. I road home from Maggie thru TN with the MeanSling top, and never got bothered.

    We rode to key west this past weekend. There were a ton of murals down through the keys I wasn't expecting. I really wanted to stop and get a picture with one of the massive Guy Harvey murals but I was in a rental anyways and wouldn't have counted it. Oh well... mine should be put back together this weekend so I should be able to jump in the next competition.


    Some really great photos so far but today is the final day before voting goes up. Please make sure to tag the one you want as your entry if you have multiple.

    Wicked, I for one have no issues with waiting long enough to get your Sling back if it should be completed soon. My vote is.... extend it to June 1, get your photo, and then have the contest. This is all just for fun anyway! Anyone agree?

    Glad you got it sorted out and that it went away with some drive time. As for the radio, assuming you still have the stock one, the orange connector goes into port B and the blue one into port D. Also if you look at the color coded connectors, there SHOULD be a sticker on the wire that tells you what port it goes into on the back of the radio face plate. The 15s had it. Not sure on the other years. I've never had issues with my gauges so unfortunately I'm not going to be any help on that. The funny thing is if your radio is connected to your phone via bluetooth, the music will still play with the face plate completely removed.

    Thanks for your time Kyle, it is appreciated! I will check the plugs today after work. I think I either have a bad sending unit, or a bad temperature gauge. I ran a separate wire to double check wiring, and it didn't change. The oil pressure gauge is waiting on the Auto Meter 2278 adapter fitting you mentioned above. And, while the voltmeter is working fine, the light burnt out in the housing this morning!

    Hey, it's all good! I'll get it fixed and working shortly. Shortly.... see what I did there? :00008356::00008040:

    To get rid of the CEL you can just disconnect the battery for 10-15min and that will clear the code. I just did the same thing last week. I had my intake manifold off and forgot to plug in the TB when I was finished. Mine was a little pissed off until I cleared the code.


    The block fitting is 12mm x 1.75. Your oil pressure sensor is likely 1/8" NPT. You could use Auto Meter 2278 to convert over the block. You can stick the engine oil pressure sensor in the back of the head. I THINK it's about 10psi lower pressure there but it is enough to keep the idiot light happy.

    Code cleared this morning when I stopped for gas on my way to work! Thanks for the info though!

    Brent


    Try cycling the ignition 3 times - Off On, Off On, Off On, Off and do it very quickly. Let set for 20 - 30 minutes and see if check engine light clears.

    Thanks Tom. Not sure why, but this morning it went off. It was on when I left for work, but since it was running fine and the weather is going to be nice, I drove it in anyway. I stopped for fuel on the way, and when I cycled the ignition, the check engine light stayed off. I do seem to have a gremlin in the mix though. The gauges are giving me issues, and this morning my backup camera wouldn't come on. All I get is a blue screen in reverse. I had the radio out, might not have got the plug in pushed in all the way. Radio works though!

    (Who am I kidding? None of the first generation radios work, but it does bluetooth to my iPod and plays that fine!) :00008356:

    Goats_Hogs I know you don't like going to the dealer but I had a problem with a

    rattling muffler and they replaced it under warranty. Don't remember if you got the extended warranty or not

    I did not get the extended warranty. The only thing my SS has been in the shop for are recalls or things Polaris didn't do correctly at assembly. I have had zero issues that would be warranty work up until now. You are right, I'm not one to like to go to the dealer, I'd rather do it myself. From the dealerships I've been to, more likely it will be done right if I do it! CCM is good though, I do like them. But they are a couple hours away, so unless I think something will take more than 4 hours of my time to fix, it likely won't go there much either!

    To get rid of the CEL you can just disconnect the battery for 10-15min and that will clear the code. I just did the same thing last week. I had my intake manifold off and forgot to plug in the TB when I was finished. Mine was a little pissed off until I cleared the code.


    The block fitting is 12mm x 1.75. Your oil pressure sensor is likely 1/8" NPT. You could use Auto Meter 2278 to convert over the block. You can stick the engine oil pressure sensor in the back of the head. I THINK it's about 10psi lower pressure there but it is enough to keep the idiot light happy.

    OK, I did this twice today (over 30 minutes each time) and the code comes right back. FYI, I drove it 10 miles, acted just as usual in all ways. Last night was a late day for me, not sure.... I may have or not unplugged the throttle body while the ignition was hot. Any chance I messed up the throttle body sensor if I did? I'll be happy to buy a new one if that would fix the problem. Sling runs fine, but that engine light comes on every time I boot it. Any help greatly appreciated!!

    But the link to NAPA you gave looks like it's the #5 piece. If there is a leaded (or other, used to be lead) part that fits between the CAT (delete or not) and the muffler, that would be the problem I'm having. Sorry, don't mean to be a pain, just don't need the one at the header/CAT (delete or not).

    Thank you for the follow up! My pads are still good (38K) so next time I may opt for DDMworks drilled rotors and Hawk pads instead!

    That may be my problem! I didn't notice it when I put in the CAT delete, and it looks like the flange is damaged going into the muffler. May have lost part of that gasket, and that would have the parts hitting metal to metal making the sound like it's breaking up inside. I may not need a muffler, may just need the gasket! I'll pick one up on the way home and pop the springs off to see!


    Does this go between the CAT and the muffler I assume?


    EDIT: Never mind. I see this is for the header to the CAT or CAT delete pipe. I use the aluminium coated gasket there. May not need it (although I have a spare on the bench) since I can just pull the springs.