Posts by CHIEFP

    Happy Monday all,


    My sling's 1st owner's only mod was a speaker system. He had a shop install DD Audio speakers (2 6.5s and separate tweets) & amps, using 2 behind the seat SSVworks sub enclosures $ 10" subs. It has decent power...but I don't like the sound quality. I've never heard of DD Audio. I found their web site and was surprised that this stuff isn't marine grade. I thought that was a must? I live it Vegas and it won't get wet, but still.


    Does anyone else use DD Audio? Curious how they would compare to JL Audio or a more popular brand. I know with separate speakers, it's important to get the cross overs right...but I'd have no clue how to do that. lol. Using the equalizer app when streaming from my phone, it sounds OK, but I'm looking for more than that and was considering additional speaker pods.


    Previous owner had the gain turned all the way down and essentially wasn't even using the subs. He said the shop talked him into going with what he did and he thought it was too much. I found the DD Audio site, the shop used the bottom end options, but he spent $3,400 ($1,200 in labor!)

    Can you advise what you did? I think those who say it is tight have 17 or later. I see no way of my positive cable reaching on the other side. I noticed a lite the nite power video where the front of the battery was facing driver seat. Trying to create a thread so people can see all the options. I'm not a metal worker I dont plan on building a tray.


    https://www.facebook.com/litet…/videos/2780745278635834/

    Sorry for delay, I'm not on here every day. I bought the battery tray as well. I'm not at home to go look at it, but I removed taped/bundled wires from the positive line, got the battery onto the new plate and it barely reached. You can't reach it to tighten well either. They provide a wingnut that you can't really get your fingers on well. Got it as tight as I could. If your positive cable is half an inch shorter that mine, it won't reach.

    Looking for some help with installing this battery. With the post being reversed on the optima battery from what my 2019 GT came with. The positive cable doesn't reach far enough to connect. Any suggestions? I bought this battery and tray from slingmods and they were unfamiliar with any issues. I found that hard to believe.

    It's hard to believe because it's BS. I called and told them, and posted a review on their site as well. Least they could do is acknowledge you might have to do some modding/tight space work to get it in there. I got it in without changing the cables...but it was a PITA. Had to undo the other stuff connected to the positive cable and hook them up individually. And wingnuts?! WTF?! Can't reach up there to get it as tight as I'd like.

    WOW. I was trying to get it to swing down like the fronts. No wonder no one else had this problem, HAHA I'm an idiot. THANKS.


    So my son just told me while I was on the computer he loosed the brake line thinking the would give more slack (stupid apparently runs in the family lol). He realized it was the brake fluid line but said it did lose a couple drops of fluid before he realized it and tightened it back up. Hoping this won't mean have to bleed them??

    Searched, but apparently I'm the only one too stupid to figure this out. Doing my brakes and I'm trying to get the rears done. I can't get the caliper down. I unhooked the emergency brake cable from the coil spring, after I realized I needed to release the spring tension to get the cable end free...but I'm stuck there. I don't see how to get the main cable loose from the bracket??!! I've pulled the cable grommets loose, but I need a lot more travel to clear the pads.


    :cursing:

    Need some advice on the install. Didn't see anywhere this happened to someone else...so of course it would be me...


    I was installing the small white plastic bushing on the end of the new shifter. Greased it up and couldn't quite snap it in place so I gave it a little pop with a rubber mallet. It snapped right on, but 3 of the little black push pins went flying. There are 3 left in it. Anyone know if that's going to create any problems? Assume they just keep the bushing on and it seems to still be on there good. Where would I even get a new one? Thanks all.

    Agreed, i have the same, love it. It's one of those must installs, that you didn't know you needed, until you have it, or drove a friends who has it.


    Dave@DDMWorks did the updated instructions go out on new products about doing the twirl dance to make sure all is smooth before installing? We should name that the twirl maneuver until you name it something better :)


    If not, can you post them, I don't see this updated on your site yet.

    Whats this "Twirl" you speak of? Ordering mine today

    I have a wing (carbon fiber) that I got on EBAY for $265 a long time ago that I mounted to the frame with L Brackets under the rear deck. That is the cheapest way to go and very sturdy.

    Looks good, but I'm not putting holes in the deck. I like the roll hoop option.

    I just installed a madstad 11". Love the adjustability. I like to look over the screen but wanted enough air deflection to let me wear a hat that doesn't get ripped off at town speeds. Works perfectly.

    Yep, read several threads, several positive, but enough that I wouldn't have risked $700 on one. But for $50, I don't think it qualifies as a "nightmare." It looks like an easy install (minus the wiring Q). If it works, great. if it doesn't or if as others said, I don't like the sound, that's OK too. Just put the stocker back on.


    These things sure do squeak, rattle and roll...but I have a $3,600 sound system. Come to think of it, I don't hear the exhaust anyway :thumbsup:

    here's the 4 terminal box. The right 2 terminals go to the actuator and left 2 are the cut lighter plug. No markings on anything.