I'm a total dumb ass. I did not realize this was a vendor thread. I never should have posted what works for me here. Please accept my apologies and continue making awesome mods
All good Shatneyman 
Posts by Kyle D
-
-
Thanks Kyle.
(Was I the first to sign up? - I thought the price was VERY reasonable.)Yes you were the first to sign up! Who's going to be number 2?
-
Kyle, that looks great and is generous of you on the group buy.
Those of us with a top can’t use this. If you get enough of us asking, consider a thinner plate with an arm going up with the mount, that would be sandwiched in the top mounts already there. At least, for those of us who have tops that mount to the top of the roll bars.
Thanks!
There's already been some discussion I had with another member here and here at the shop about doing side plates that would either be blank or have a camera mount, or some sort of other mount on them. This was our first rendition of this piece that we are testing the waters with. If sales do well and there is some interest in another mount or just blank plates we will definitely make it.
-
For those of you that are handy with tools. Go to Lowe's or Home Depot and get you a piece of 1/4 inch flat Alum. Cut you two pieces 3/4 x 2 1/2 inch to use on the top outside hole on the roll hoop (Think Sandwich here) to mount whatever type of mount that you may like that uses a bolt and bolt thru the two plates. There is no use to be high tech just paint the color that you choose. This can also be done to any hole that is left in your roll bar that is not already used to mount something. All that you would need is a drill motor, some type of saw and maybe a file to clean everything up. It might take you 20 minutes to make each pair. Come on people us you head and your hands to make something.
FunCycle so basically you're saying that you're willing to spend $20-$30k on a slingshot but would rather go to home depot, buy a bunch of pieces to hodge podge together and waste the better part of a day completing the project from start to finish to make something that still will not look as nice as this billet mount? To each their own I guess.
-
looks cool, but what's the price? I use this on my roll bars and it's been there for about 4 years now. Only $5.00, good with my Go Pro or 360 fly
These are priced at $59.99. Our top-notch products aren't for everyone and I get that. I had done the same thing you did, and after a couple cameras fell off we decided to develop something solid to skirt that issue, give us some brand recognition, and just plain look cool and are functional. The other issue I personally had with mounts like that is that once, the camera mount locks into the base, there is a little wobble from the clearance that needs to be there for the mount to be able to slide in. That can make for a video that is not as clear and still as it could be. With the ZZP mount, that wobble is eliminated and it is solid.
You have something that works for you, has been successful for you, and are happy with that which is great, but it doesn't mean it's not worth it to those of us who appreciate the quality of a part like this that is different, well built, and stands out from your run of the mill universal mounts.
With that said, if 10ppl want to get together and do a group buy, I'll knock off 20% bringing them down to $48/e + shipping. We'll call shipping to anywhere in the lower 48 states $8 bringing the total to $56 delivered to your doorstep. This is a better discount than our vendors get. If you are interested in this, and will be ready to purchase once I have 10ppl signed up, please go to http://www.zzperformance.com and create an account which is free to do. Then, shoot me an email to Kyle@zzperformance.com with the subject Action Camera Mount Group Buy, include your first and last name you created the account with, and I will keep a list and as soon as I have 10 people, I will send each of you an email with a link to an invoice to pay for the mount. As always, if you have any questions please let me know.
-
Actually I would love it if someone made front and back plates like this that fit in the top and both the upper and lower side slots in the roll hoops that were just blank plates that could be drilled and tapped by the end user to make mounting points for whatever things we might want to mount to the roll hoops.
That might be in the works........I was actually talking to someone about this this morning.........but it may be a limited run sort of deal. It's a real specialty item that may not be cost effective to make. BUT, if there were 10ppl that wanted to do it, we could most likely make them. I'll post a poll and see what kind of responses we get. Also looking into doing a side mount version of the camera holder for those of you running tops.
-
Looks great Kyle D !!! And I am a fan of group buys.
Thank you!!! I'm always down to do a group buy on any of our products. I know a lot of us use action cameras and with the mod flu being so deadly, it makes funding limited for more mods but with this being a very affordable and functional mod, I thought it would be easier to get a group on board. Maybe ericastar76 wants one for her Virb Ultra 30?
-
Looking for the safest way to mount your action camera to your Slingshot for optimum footage? Look no further! ZZP’s Slingshot action camera mount attaches directly to the stock roll bars with the front and back plate nestling into the divots in the bar itself giving an OEM appearance. Simply tighten the plates down with the provided bolts, mount your camera, and you’re good to go! Made from anodized billet aluminum, etched with ZZP, it's sure to be the next great addition to your Slingshot!
Works with Go Pro, Garmin, and other action cameras with the same mount. As always, feel free to email me directly at Kyle@zzperformance.com with any questions. Could be a cool group buy opportunity.
-
-
Kyle D This is money! I'm currently running a set of Madstad hood hinges and when fully opened the nose of the hood hits my aluminum front splitter. With your integrated stop I can fix this problem. Order incoming.
We made it this way because of my carbon front lip hanging off the front. It initially hit mine so we put the stops in there so you can adjust how much you need. Thanks for the order!!!
-
Want to replace your ugly stock hood hinges with a set of beautiful CNCd billet aluminum replacements? This is for you. This kit allows you to open your Slingshot hood 18* further than stock, and has an adjustable stop to adjust where the hood opens meaning you can allow it to stop prior to the 18*. Our kit is superior to other kits on the market in the fact that we redesigned both the top and bottom brackets to keep the angle geometry near stock thus not requiring a hood assist shock to open your hood. It will open just like it did from the factory. The kit is currently available in titanium matte but will soon also be available in gloss black and raw un-coated which has a polished look to it. You can see it on our site here https://zzperformance.com/coll…hot-billet-hood-hinge-kit As always, if you have any questions you can PM me or email me directly at kyle@zzperformance.com
-
The new exhaust really does add more power in the low end when it broke. Makes me wonder if that could have contributed to the problem so I am not taking chances.
With how these 2.4s make power in NA trim, it's physically impossible that your exhaust had anything to do with causing a power related failure to your angle drive. You just plain got a defective part and I hope Polaris stands behind it and warranties it in full with zero out of pocket for you. But reverting everything back to stock is definitely a great idea. Looking forward to seeing the end result on this.
-
I have one of our cat delete pipes that was used in the R&D for the NA build I did recently. It has about 5 dyno pulls on it. $150 shipped to anywhere in the lower 48 states. Normally sells for $175 plus shipping. Email me at Kyle@zzperformance.com if you are interested.
This is our race offroad downpipe that we developed for the Polaris Slingshot. This will connect the factory manifold to the factory muffler. This is for racing applications only because it doesn't have a catalytic converter. It is fully constructed of 304 stainless steel and has a machined ring to reuse the factory style gasket.
-
Thankfully our rights to carry a loaded long gun in or on you vehicle or person in my home state have never been infringed. Hand guns are a different story. They think you need to pay a fee to exercise your 2nd amendment rights. Soon they will start selling permits for "free speech"!
We have open carry here in MI but RARELY do you ever see anyone open carrying. I think I spent about $250 on my CPL between the class, state fee, and finger prints. I personally never open carry. I think it's a terrible idea but to each their own.
-
I have a extremely lightly used NA Stage 1 package ready for a new home. It has 5 dyno pulls on it. We used the kit for R&D and then removed it. You will need to send out your PCM for tuning. Turn around time is usually 1 business day. This kit typically sells for $1,140.00. I am letting this go for $1000 + shipping. This is a fantastic deal considering it was already the lowest priced package on the market. You're saving nearly $350 comparing it to the next comparable product out there. Shoot me an email at kyle@zzperformance.com with your shipping address and I can get you an invoice. You can pay with credit card or paypal.
-
Display MoreJust my 2 cents, check one of my prior posts:
This tire will keep the rear end planted better than most anything. Note, that this is the ET-Street-R, not the ET-Street-SS... No same-same. If you want grip, you need a pliable tire. Running this tire on a Forgestar Deep Dish 12x18 +45mm wheel. This tire was originally designed for the Dodge Hellcat/Demon -- and on the drag strip, the sidewalls get a nice wrinkle (see pic).
I am also running a Micky Thompson ET Street R in a 305/45/18. I love them. But I also go through 2-3 each year. They are also one rain drop away from a near death experience on a slingshot. The stickiest tire I have found and love but terrible in any kind of wet weather.
-
Welcome to the group cp101 My opinion would be to get a set of coil overs for a suspension upgrade and some sticky tires. If new wheels are in the budget get a 11-12" wide rear wheel and run the same size up front (or wider) and as wide as you wanna go in the rear. The widest I've seen on here is a 345 which will require a 12" wide wheel on the rear. WHAT tire you run will also play a factor. If you decide to run a really sticky high performance street tire like a Toyo R888R there are lots of sizes available. If you're looking for something really sticky like a Micky Thompson drag radial like I run, the widest the ET Street R comes in is 305. If you get a wider wheel for the rear, I would suggest running something in a 335 as that is a common Corvette tire size so there will be lots of options for tires. If you're sticking with the stock wheels for now, the widest tire you can safely put on the SL's factory 9" wide rear wheel is a 275. That's my 2 cents and I'm sure there will be lots of varying opinions. I think the common thought will be suspension. It makes a huge difference on the SS. If you're interested is squeezing more power out of your SS, I also offer a turbo kit for it. Feel free to PM me with any questions.
-
Kyle D would you clarify something for me? I've followed your N/A power thread and there was some dialogue about not necessarily needing a tune for 91 octane. I get 92 out here in the NW, am N/A with CAI, header and cat-delete exhaust. I've been planning on a tune for improved performance and drivability - smoother/broader powerband, reduced rev-hang and possibly mileage improvement, not for increased HP. Will I benefit from your tune or will I be disappointed?
I would say you're going to see similar gains to 93 on both 91 and 92 octane. We're only talking 1-2 points of octane really . With that said, the question is someone running 91 or 92 octane going to see an improvement in overall drive-ability? Absolutely. The power numbers should also be pretty close to 93. I think the tune on 91 or 92 is going to be an improvement over the stock tune definitely. While the raw power gains were not huge from tuning, from what I felt, it definitely woke the Slingshot up and it felt better over the entire power band, the mid range felt a lot stronger, and the SS was a lot more responsive overall. I hate to speak for you but after driving a bone stock SLR and going to a similar package as you with a tune, I do not think you would be disappointed.
-
#2 CAI — bought the stock unit that now comes on the ’19 SLRs. Power gains, if any, are very modest but I love the improved feel of the midrange RPMs — say, 3-4.5K — and that nice little growly note like my giant tabby purring on my lap. The only other engine mod I would do now, besides cosmetic, is Bob’s MEFI tune.
I definitely agree with 2W2X1, throw a K&N filter on there. We just did testing with the SLR intake on our dyno and put it up against the stock air box from my 2015 SL and our ZZP cold air intake. The SLR intake flowed the least amount of air and produced the least amount of power mostly due to the generic air filter they use on there. A K&N filter would likely help a bit. As for tuning, I will have tuning ready for sale next week if you can hold out. Cost is $350 vs $500 for mefi bobs tune. Just food for thought. If you have any questions, feel free to PM me if you'd like.
-
Happy Birthday Mitch! Have a great solo ride!
