Posts by FunCycle

    I just spent all day Thursday (12 hours) throwing cut up wood on a fire. At noon on Friday it was just a pile of ash. Cut up firewood, you can not give the shit away around here. So by burning it I did not have to handle but one time. Talk about a back ache, I am still paying for that one.

    Over on the dark side, there was a link to a company that sold all kinds of pigtails/sockets that were used on the slingshot. I'm sure these parts are GM delco or Delphi parts. I'm looking for 2 of the connectors that will plug into the factory fog light harness. It almost looks like a GM coolant temp sensor connector, but I haven't been able to find one at Auto Zone, O'reilly's, or Advance Auto.



    Any idea of who has these for sale without having to buy boxes of 25 at a time?

    I could not find them either, so I just ordered the fog light kit. I am still looking for the male and female plugs.

    If the big will not work, that little one with just the 2 screws probably will not work either. Next best idea would be get a piece of 1/2 inch plate cut to size with a 1/2 inch hole in the center where you could use a a 1/2 inch bolt and a nut, and also drill the plate so that you can use all six screws to spread the pressure evenly around the hub. This will also let you put a little more pressure on the hub without stripping threads out or breaking the screws. Failing that cut/grind carefully to get the hub off. GOOD LUCK

    Damn, I guess my 100rd drum on my AR would just cause them to have an instant aneurysm, LOLAnd to just finish them off i would pull out my 40rd mag for the AK and the 33rd for the glock, :00008172::00008356:

    Back yard range here, I do not do any indoor shooting. 75 round drum for the AK is only good for bench shooting, otherwise it is just to heavy for an old man to hold up. I have several 22's that have well over 100,000 rounds thru them. Hell we put over 100,000 rounds thru the S&W AR15-22 in less than 6 months and that was when it first came out, no telling how many rounds total since then.

    He knows safety..Pretty good with a BB gun. Still young for a real gun, a bow would be good for him

    That is what they make 22's for. Had my grand son shooting AR15-22 at 6 years old, he also shot the AK.

    So, been thinking of getting a Bow for my son & 1 for myself. Figured it would be a father son past time to shoot? Pretty pricey hobby though initially. Can set up some fake deer targets in yard and there's a range about 45 min away we can shoot @ for hrs reasonably cheap. So how many guys are Bow guys? anything bow you would recommend that decent for beginners? I was gunna look @ a Hoyt for myself and buddy told me about a boy for my son that's suppose to be real nice for $400?


    Buddy and his son shoot and he says it's a good time......

    Teach him the safety lessons for shooting a gun. Then teach him proper control and shooting of the long gun and the hand gun.

    Depends on whether or not you have halogens or HIDs/LEDs.
    After Polaris redesigned th headlight circuits (the Headlight Recall fix), there are two headlight circuits, each rated for 20A. One handles the Center headlights (plus the Canadian headlights, if you have added those). The other circuit is for the outer auxiliary headlights. If you are running the halogens, your center circuit is drawing 2 x 65W or about 11A. If you also have halogen Canadian headlights with 2 x55W bulbs, that's an additional 9.2A or so which maxes out the center circuit. The outer auxiliary headlight circuit runs 2 x 55W or abolut 9.2A, meaning you could power the light bar off the outer circuit using a relay triggered by the center high beam wire and still be within specs. You could also use the Fog light circuit (10A), again triggered by a relay from the center circuit high bean wire.
    I have the Cycle Springs LED setup meaning I have 2 x 36W plus 2 x 25W on the center circuit or about 10.2A, meaning I could easily run a 6A light bar by simply connecting it to the high beam wiring and still be withing spec for that circuit.
    I rewired my outer auxiliary headlights to the Fog Light circuit (replaced the headlight connectors on the Fog Light circuit to fit the outer headlights. This should leave the outer headlight circuit free to run a light bar, for example, by simply hooking it up to the high beam circuit.
    If you have any other questions, supply me some specifics and maybe I can answer them.

    The original circuit relay/breaker will not support the center lights and the Canadian lights on high beam. Doesn't take but a few seconds and you cannot touch the relay and it will start cycling. That is why I changed to all led's so that I could run the high beams.

    Will send some prayers up in smoke for ya!

    If the hub is that tight, you may need to use more than two of those 10/32 screws on the puller. I would make the plate and use all of the screw holes in the hub, before you strip the threads out of some of them. If you do strip the threads you will have to cut or grind CAREFULLY to remove the hub. GOOD LUCK

    Plus that red button make them DOT approved.Long story short way back we had a wreck in a street rod - full race harnesses. Insurance would not cover the injuries because we did not have DOT belts. Since then I always make sure belts are DOT.

    Thanks Mitch, had not though of that one. Did not notice if the Cipher was Dot approved or not.

    Technically cam locks are for off road use. It is somewhat a safety issue if you were in an accident and someone had to get you out of the seatbelt / harness. That is why seatbelts in cars have an orange release button that says to push it press here. It is just easier to use the push button release also.

    Thanks @BlackDeath maybe I will install this set over the winter. If it gets cold enough that I can not ride.