Posts by Dave@DDMWorks

  • WindRestrictor

    We have been working with Windrestrictor for a long time, almost every Solstice and Sky that come to our shop has one of their products on it, and the folks over there are very nice to work with. We have known about their work with the Slingshot for awhile now and are very happy to see it starting to hit the market. We should have our windrestrictor here soon and will post up pictures and driving impressions once we get it. Give them a call if you have any questions, they are always a pleasure to work with.

  • The luckiest SOB today! Eaton S/C

    Most of the "S" will put around 150-155hp at the wheels and the JCW or "S" with a pulley swap will put around 170hp at the wheels, give or take a little bit depending. With headwork and some cams you can get well into the 200's at the wheels, twincharge setups will take you much higher than that also. One the track they are a fun little car and can hang with much more expensive machinery with a good driver behind the wheel.

  • The luckiest SOB today! Eaton S/C

    That looks pretty good compared to most of them. Just put a 15% pulley on our little R53 this past weekend :) Turning it into our little track day car, they are the most fun front wheel drive cars I have driven :) Glad yours didn't need a new supercharger!

  • Anyone use different spark plugs?

    Quote from Bugzilla

    On mine I used a factory GM iridium tipped plugs. They are the one out of the LNF. 41-108. Same heat range as the NGK TR7IX. Stock gap which should be .043". Do not use the ones out of the LSJ as they are too long and will hit the piston!

    Are you sure about that heat range on the LNF spark plugs? We have always been told that the stock LNF spark plugs after 2008 are a 5 heat range, NGK's site also crosses the 41-108 over as a heat range 5 - ILTR5C11, I have never seen them listed as a "7" heat range. Thanks!

  • Anyone use different spark plugs?

    Since the stock NGK non-iridium spark plugs are LTR5GP, then the 6 heat range plugs would be an LTR6GP, but that is not available from NGK, neither is a LTR7GP.


    That plug that was listed for the HAHN setups is a LZTR5A-13 and so the 6 heat range would be a LZTR6A-13, which is not available either.


    I would have to do some searching to come up with a copper plug with a 6 heat range in the same length, nothing right off though. As for the iridium causing detonation, that is not something that we have seen at all, typically it works really well since the tip is so small on the iridium it runs cooler at the tip and is less prone to detonation.

  • Anyone use different spark plugs?

    Quote from Street Doc

    So maybe a LTR7IX-11 going one step cooler?

    The stock heat range is a "5" with NGK. Different spark plug manufacturers note heat range differently, but with NGK the higher the number the cooler the plug. So a "6" is going to be 1 step cooler and a "7" is going to be 2 steps cooler.


    BTW - the "-11" at the end of the numbers on these plugs designates the gap in millimeters, -11 means a gap of 1.1mm as shipped from NGK (about .043")


    That is why we sell and install the LTR6IX-11 on all of the forced induction kits we sell, it is basically exactly the same shape as the stock plug, just one heat range cooler. The 7 heat range might start being a good idea if you start going over 350hp at the wheels, most spark plugs manufacturers recommend 1 step cooler for every 75hp or so. The downside of going too cold of a plug though is that they are more prone to fouling if you are not running them hard all of the time. For most people we find that the "6" heat range works well.

  • Anyone use different spark plugs?

    Quote from TravAZ

    For the Alpha turbo kits we are using one of the below set of plugs...


    • Iridiums that come with turbo kit - NGK: BKR7EIX11
    • Copper / Standard Option - NGK: 92038 - LFR7A


    If you are going to run anything different, pay special attention to the heat range, gap, and length of the plug. I was running some other NGK 7 heat range plugs, but realized they were much shorter than what should be in there.


    Those BKR7EIX-11 plugs are not really the same as the stock plugs, they have a different seat style and also are short on the reach.


    Here is the stock spark plug information from NGK's website for a 2006 Solstice with a 2.4L LE5 - NGK 4344 LTR5IX-11 Iridium Spark Plug



    Shell


    2 things that I want to point out on that list - Set type and Reach.


    Now if we look at the NGK site for the BKR7EIX-11 - NGK 6988 BKR7EIX-11 Iridium Spark Plug here is the description -



    Shell


    In the description from NGK it is showing that those are Gasket seats and also only 19mm of reach.


    The LTR6IX-11 plugs are a much closer fit to the stock plugs since they have the following specs - NGK 6509 LTR6IX-11 Iridium Spark Plug



    Shell


    Same seat type and also the same reach.


    The other plug you referenced - LFR7A - NGK 92038 LFR7A Spark Plug



    Shell


    That plug has a gasket seat instead of tapered seat, the reach on it is actually a little long, although the tighter gap is good for high boost applications (over about 12-13psi).


    Hope that helps,
    Dave

  • Where are we all on this device

    It is actually the EVAP purge solenoid for the gas tank. Most of the Slingshots do not have anything coming from the gas tank connected to it, however there are some that do have the vent line from the tank going to it. Under certain conditions the valve opens and allows gas fumes from the tank to enter the engine to help with evaporative emmissions from the fuel tank. On a usual E67 or E37 ECM a check engine light eventually comes on if it is not plugged in, but I am not sure of that on the MEFI controllers. If you do not have a hose plugged into the other end then you could remove it and plug the intake manifold hole without a problem (just the possible check engine light, which could be worked around also).


    Hope that helps,
    Dave

  • DDMWorks Built Engine for Rabtech

    Quote from iNewton

    makes sure you take off transmission cover plate if you have one installed. It doesn't clear the flywheel and will get stuck.


    I used another lift under the transmission to help lift the engine over the mounts without putting all the weight on the transmission input shaft.


    Once the engine is out, nothing support the end of the transmission and it will stress the mounts, so I strongly suggest supporting it before pulling the engine out.

    Yes to this, we typically use a second jack under the transmission which allows you to adjust it up and down a little bit to take the load off of it and also when installing the engine back into the Slingshot you can adjust the angle a little bit to make it easier to line everything back up.

  • DDMWorks Built Engine for Rabtech

    Quote from rabtech

    I am going to leave the turbo on and the intake manifold in place.....I don't see where either is going to be close to the frame...and they will be much easier to take off once it is out and i can spin it around and get to everything....

    You will probably want to remove the intake manifold, makes it a lot easier to unhook the power going to the starter and also unplug the oil pressure and crank sensor from the harness.


    There are 2 - M8 bolt holes in the front of the block that work well for hooking up to, there is also a couple M8 bolt holes on the passenger side above the exhaust manifold on the cylinder head you can use for lift points.


    Hope that helps,
    Dave

  • Oil cooler

    Quote from Switchblade

    @Dave@DDMWorks just ordered! This is perfect to order this in pieces as I have the hoses and oil coolers are easy to source. But I trust your products a lot with something as important as oil!

    Thanks! We appreciate it, if you need any help when putting together your own setup, just let me know, always happy to help.


    Dave

  • Found a Good deal on Craigslist for someone looking for a LE orange

    Quote from Br4hm4

    Reliability and performance with the least hassle...Definitely not Rotary then. I owned an RX8 that sat in the shop for 4 months out of the 16 months I owned it. I loved driving it when it was running. Other than that it had constant ecu issues and apex seals are pain in the ass.

    The rotary engine by itself is not inherently unreliable, just that Mazda really did a poor job of it with the Renesis in the RX8. The Rx8 is the least reliable version of the rotary I think that was ever produced, and if it is an automatic RX8, that version of the Renesis is almost guaranteed to fail. The 13B in the FD was a good engine but Mazda put a radiator and intercooler that was too small and forced it out through a really bad downpipe. We have been around rotary racing for a long time now and the earlier naturally aspirated engines with fuel injection can be super reliable, and one of those with bridge porting, beefier apex seals running out to 9000RPm would be a lot of fun :)

  • DDMWorks Built Engine for Rabtech

    Quote from rabtech

    Just unbelievable how nice the DDM crew were today. I picked up @Wrenchmn in Atlanta and he rode over with me to pick this beast up. I thought I was going to have to lay down puppy pads down in the showroom floor. He was drooling everywhere. DDM has some showroom bling!

    Glad you made it home safely, it was great to see you and @Wrenchmn again, we are very happy that we were able to help you with this part of your build and look forward to you getting the engine installed, tuned and running strong. If you have any questions along the way with the engine swap, just let us know :) Also looking forward to hearing how @Wrenchmn his new toy that he picked up yesterday ;)