Posts by Dave@DDMWorks

  • New DDMWorks Swag available!

    New DDMWorks Swag has arrived!


    DDMworks Airplane Style Key chains -


    The new airplane style key chain is embroidered with the DDMWorks logo on one side and "Enjoy your ride" on the other side. The keychain is 1.5" tall and 5" long and includes a hardened stainless steel key ring. They are only $3 here -


    http://www.ddmworks.com/DDMWor…njoy-Your-Ride_p_925.html







    We also have new stock of our DDMWorks hats with embroidered logo also, super comfortable for $25 -


    http://www.ddmworks.com/DDMWorks-Embroidered-Hat_p_927.html


  • Think I blew my engine

    Quote from WingShot

    Sounds like the perfect time for one of your motors Dave 🤪



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

    If he plans on keeping the turbo on there for sure, but sounds like he wants to sell the Slingshot and move on, in that case, put a stock engine in it and sell the turbo kit. Or if he wants to keep the Slingshot, stock engine, 8-9psi of boost and the fix we have for that kit has proven on quite a few of the Hahn kits to be smooth and reliable also, so many options :)

  • Think I blew my engine

    Quote from Garrett Taguchi

    Yea what u described is how it ran when it was running good...after the bogging issue, it was very erratic...at idle and while cruising, it really struggled to stay at 14...

    That cylinder most likely has a piece of the piston that has come off, typically because of heat in the cylinder causing the upper compression ring to touch and pop a piece of the piston off. If you have a bore scope, look in the cylinder especially around where the valve reliefs are machined into the pistons. When the piece comes off it typically bounces around a little bit inside the cylinder and causes damage, then gets kicked out the exhaust and probably went through the turbine on the turbo and out the exhaust. That all happens really quickly. A lot of times when that happens it will crack the cylinder wall and like Kyle D if that happened, that block is a really big paper weight at that point. Swap in another stock engine and either get the tune fixed for the Hahn kit, or if you are planning to sell the Slingshot, move on. If you need help getting the Hahn kit to run right, let us know, we have a fix that makes that kit run well Funinthesun has one we worked on.

  • Think I blew my engine

    Quote from Garrett Taguchi

    Yea, it's gap is closed on that spark plugs...didn't think to check the coolant level, I'll check it in a bit and update you guys... appreciate the help

    Do you have a picture of the spark plug from cylinder #1, the one closest to the front of the engine you said had oil on it?


    The air/fuel ratios under boost sound about right, while not in boost the air/fuel will move around quite a bit, it should go very lean when letting off the gas and be around 14.7 +/-1 while idling and light cruise.

  • Think I blew my engine

    Also, the white smoke typically means coolant is getting into the cylinder(s), make sure to check your coolant level, if it is low or the tank is empty, the most common cause we see is a crack in the cylinder wall, which allows coolant to enter the cylinder. A bore scope will also give you some more information on what is going on if you have one of those.


    Hope that helps,

    Dave

  • Think I blew my engine

    Sorry to hear about the engine, defintiely get a compression and leak down test on it and let us know if you have any questions about what you find. Oil on one spark plug is usually not a good thing to see though. Was the spark plug gap still correct or did the electrode get closed up to the ground strap on that cylinder?

  • New Product! Steering wheel puller by DDMWorks

    We were a little frustrated removing steering wheels here and the tools available, so we took a little time to develop and make our own steering wheel puller for the Slingshot. The puller is machined from a solid piece of thick 1/2" stainless steel. All the bolts needed for doing the removal are included in the kit, even the anti seize to help lubricate the bolt.


    The design works really well, but we didn't like the idea of a single use item and since we like to enjoy bottled beverages, we designed the puller to also work as a bottle opener and keychain after removing the steering wheel :thumbsup:


    They are $25, by them as a puller or just as a bottle opener/keychain -


    http://www.ddmworks.com/Slings…er-by-DDMWorks_p_924.html





    http://www.ddmworks.com/Slings…er-by-DDMWorks_p_924.html

  • Master cylinder brace issue

    Quote from derichio02

    Was the design of this ever updated? I have a brace installed on my 2019 for the last 500 miles. Seems I should remove and alter it as well or find a replacement. As a side note I really hate the SS mushy brakes.

    We have a new updated design that has been tested on our 2020 Slingshot also for fitment. Not sure if the brace you have is from us, if so and it is the older design, shoot me an email direct - dave@ddmworks.com or give us a call - 864-438-4949 and we will get you taken care of.

  • If you are on the fence about what turbo kit to buy read this first!

    Quote from Shane850

    Dave,


    Have you installed these type of set-ups Slings with one of your built engines? Would it be beneficial for the set-up we have been discussing?


    Shane

    Shane,


    We have installed a lot of the water/meth setups now on Slingshots with and without our engines. We could add something like that on your build, you might talk with MACAWS, he had a hahn kit and our tune and injectors and was making really good power, low 400's on just pump gas.

  • If you are on the fence about what turbo kit to buy read this first!

    15psi of boost pressure at the intake manifold is not always going to be the limit you can run on 93 octane, the knock threshold is going to be dependent on a lot of factors, boost pressure is not the sole factor. There are plenty of Ecotec's running around on higher pressures than that on 93 octane out there.


    There are a couple other factors right off that I can think of that contributes to pre-ignition also -

    - The air/fuel ratio

    - How homogenous the mixture is in the cylinder (there can be pockets of different air/fuel mixtures within the cylinder)

    - Carbon deposits on exhaust valves

    - Too far advanced timing

    - Spark plugs in the wrong heat range


    I am sure there are some others, that is just off the top of my head.


    Water/Meth is one of our favorites to run here on high boost setups. It does a couple good things compared to E85. With the water/meth spraying you keep the engine overall much cleaner. Also, if you run out of water/meth, you can still just keep driving (staying in low boost where water/meth is not needed) on 93 octane. If you are traveling you can typically find higher octane gas, but E85 is sometimes hard to find when traveling. For all out race cars E85+ can be fun, but for anyone that drives their vehicle on a daily basis, 93 octane with water/meth has been more preferred by our customers.


    Hope that helps,

    Dave

  • Space - The Final Frontier

    Quote from Edward Neal

    well, today they had a very limited launch window - launching a rocket off of a spinning ball to meetup with an object in space that is orbiting around that spinning ball at 4.76 miles per second and timing it all right so that the rocket has the fuel to put the capsule it the correct orbit so that this can all be done is complicated and requires precise timing - - add to this that in the case of these maned launches they need good weather out over the ocean all the way up over Canadian waters just in case they need to abort the launch and bring the astronauts back down.


    if it were easy this would not be the first time ever that this was being done by a private company - seriously in all of history only the U.S. Russia/USSR and China have ever put a human into space

    Hoping for good weather on Saturday a couple of us might head down that way to see the launch :thumbsup:

  • HEAVEN HAS A NEW ANGEL TONIGHT

    Wow, that is really sad to hear, really have no words, even though he started out as a customer, he really became a good friend that hung out at our tent at the events, definitely going to miss having him around with his quick wit and humor. Definitely thinking of his family, I know all of us here will have them in our thoughts and prayers. You will be missed Rob!

  • Turbo Experiences

    Awesome, thanks for the clutch order, we really appreciate it!


    The shift adapter will bolt to the top of the shifter coming out of the transmission for sure, typically I would not recommend it since you can not put a shift boot around it like the other shift adapters we have for the Slingshot, however with your setup, I don't think that will be an issue ;)


    We could do something like that shift knob, let me see what I can model up :thumbsup:

  • How Many of you installed Head Studs on a ZZP or DDM Stage 1 Turbo install?

    Quote from Turbobuick

    How Many of you installed Head Studs on a ZZP or DDM Stage 1 Turbo install?

    Early on, back in the days when Alpha was still around, Henry at Alpha made a big deal about installing head studs in all of the turbo engines that they installed their turbo kits on. Towards the end, Alpha started to have a lot of engine failures with their turbo kit caused by several factors, head studs not being one of the issues. They were destroying a lot of pistons with their kit installed, and the thought was they were lifting the cylinder head and coolant was getting into the cylinders and destroying the engine, hence the ARP headstuds were installed to help prevent this from happening. As I mentioned earlier though, that was not the issue causing the engine failures. Henry at Alpha claimed he saw loose stock head bolts and that was the reason that they made a big deal about swapping in the ARP headstuds. So a lot of those kits you will find have the ARP headstuds installed.


    That being said, I would say a significant portion of all the supercharger and turbo kits we have been selling/installing for the Slingshot since 2015 go on completely stock engines with no internal upgrades. We do not actively recommend the ARP studs to customers when selling either or supercharger or turbo kits, as there is some risk to installing the studs and for the most part the stock head bolts have proven to work at the power levels we recommend running our kits at. The engine failures we have seen out there with turbo kits are typically from heat related issues at the piston, which causes piston failure or engine knock due to tuning/mechanical issues. There is one kit that does have a tendency to destroy rods, none of these failures are not caused by a lack of ARP head studs installed in the engine.


    We have had a stock Slingshot 2.4L engine with 2 head bolts loose from the factory show up here. I couldn't believe it, but did shoot video of it just to document it, that is pretty rare though. Even with those 2 loose bolts, the engine operated fine with a Stage 1 turbo on it. We did replace all of the head bolts with ARP head studs in that case.


    So, if you want to install the ARP headstuds, it is going to be nice insurance and a good idea if you really want to make things as safe as possible, but in general we have not seen a big need for it with our supercharger or turbo kits.


    Hope that helps,

    Dave

  • Turbo Experiences

    If you are still planning on maxing out that Stage 3 with the 4 wheel, I am definitely going to recommend the track clutch on our setup.

    Quote from Ghost

    I have the "performance" clutch. It's not a problem for every day use. The wife complains about it being stiff and causing her leg to cramp up but it's never been an issue for me. Dave@DDMWorks can tell you which one I have. Got close to 20K miles on it now.

    Ghost - You do have our most aggressive clutch, as the street disc was not an option at that time. The 6 puck version you have is a little bit aggressive, but will hold the power you have no problem.

  • exhaust fumes with baker deflectors

    Quote from azran

    I appreciate the quick responses. I'm not sure I even have my cat any longer. I do know that the exhaust made a huge difference. We are in AZ, and my wife's feet melted in the summer before we got rid of the cat. And I'm a big guy (320 lbs with a paunch, but I was a 300 lb linebacker so I can't lose too much). Fully loaded with wife and gear I'm over the supposed cargo capacity. I'm not worried about that, but there was a huge difference with the header/exhaust. Off the line, and pulling hills in a higher gear than I could before (we live at a mile above sea level). I don't think I can give that up.....

    Do you have the 1320 header and 1320 rear exit exhaust?


    If so, you do not have a catalytic converter any longer for sure.


    There have been some people that have had luck with the rear deck spoiler decreasing fumes in the cabin also, not sure if you have seen those. Also, Welter used to have some small flaps that they ran under the Slingshot that created some turbulence and help eliminate fumes also you could check into.