Roger that. Tried calling them, goes straight to voicemail. I'm going to run it switched, but even on the lighter plug it's hot whenever it's running...or am I wrong (not the first time). I could wire another lighter plug to it, but same Q.
Posts by CHIEFP
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Hi all. Hoping someone that has one of these mufflers might be able to help. I bought a used one, but the cig lighter plug has been cut off. I plan to power it to my Fuze block, but does anyone know which wire on the 4 wire plug to the control box is the hot wire? Hoping maybe someone hard wired theirs and knows which. I always guess wrong...
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Display MoreThe orange and black scheme looks great!
The lights and wheel lugs are a fantastic match!
Are those heated seats, what manufacturer?
Mine current seat covers shorted out after a couple months...
Thanks. Wish the lights had more orange color options.
Got the cushions from Amazon. They definitely help with the sweaty butt/back, but haven't tested at 110 yet. Went with them as they have heat too (not tried). Fit very well. Got an adapter so I can run both and keep glove box socket free.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/prod…tle_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Been busy since we got our 18 SLR a few weeks ago. Wolo horn, fuze block, pedals ( my back is still sore), chasing halos and underbody lighting, optima battery, and some 12v ventilated seat cushions. Still have a big list! lol. Thanks to the guys & gals here...and I've apparently decided to put Slingmods Chris' kids through college.
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Ordered the madstad 11. Thanks for the help guys.
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Display Moreokay - here is my best suggestion. here are two Facebook groups that are local to you:
both of these groups are full of good and helpful people who may be able to give you the answer you are looking for and might even have members who have the windshields you are considering where they would let you actually see them and perhaps sit in their slingshot so you could see the differences first hand
nothing will answer your question as well as actually seeing the options for yourself
Thanks. Yep, member of both. Normally I'd be going to sit/ride in some, but these aren't normal times.
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I rode in a friend's Slingshot before mine got delivered back in 2015 when I was considering buying a CanAM Spyder F# since I was getting tired of waiting for Texas to allow Slingshot sales. He had an F4 +3 widshield and I found myself constantly looking at the top of the windshield in my line-of-sight. Made me realize I didn't like that height. Did the same thing before buying a top to see if it would cause any problems. Nothing beats getting a test ride with the windshield or top under consideration!
Roger that. Sounds like you could see over a madstad 11 without much trouble and it will still let you wear a hat? lol
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Keeping the stocker isn't an option. Sounds like there's no concern for any flexing in the field of vision for the wife, so madstad
I'm 6'2" and have a F4+5. I look just over the top of it. Can slide down a bit in the seat and look through if I needed to. My wife is 5'3" and no complaints looking through. I will say that the F4s do distort where they bend at the corners, but I hardly ever look at that piece of the road. Have baker air wings and they move a lot of air onto you when it gets hot, but pretty stable air without them with the +5 screen.
Thanks. Having a really tough time deciding between the 2.
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I am going to throw this out there because I live in Palm Springs CA and we have very similar weather and extreme heat to what you have in Las Vegas.
My Slingshot is a 2016 SL and it came with the factory blade windshield - I only tried a few times, but no way in hell could I keep a ball cap on my head at anything over about 30 mph - not sure how much taller a windshield would have to be for hats, but for me it doesnt matter, when its 100+ degrees out 4+ months of the year I wanted more air flow not less - - last year I switched out the stock blade to the OEM double bubbles and I love the increased airflow - probably couldn't wear a hat at 20 mph now, but I don't care
Anyway I don't know how important wearing hats is to you ,but but for me it wasnt even close - no way I would reduce my airflow even a little just to allow for hats - - - just to dang hot for that
Anyway coming from a similar climate I just wanted to share
Thanks for the feedback! I have to have a hat on during the day. I understand these options allow a lot of controllable air flow while reducing the rip your hat off effect. Regardless, the stock shield air hits me right in the eyeballs, so worth a try.
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We have both. And have driven in Vegas also. The Madstad does flex on the edges but not where you look through it. It is no problem at all. It definitely lets the wind through. The F4+5 we have is great but no wind and where you are it would be a negative. However I have seen the F4's with about 1 inch holes drilled in the bottom of them and the people liked them.
Jamesgn
Roger that. If I go with the F4 it would be the +3. I think I'll see over it and the shape with take the wind over my head.
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Display MoreDo you have a top on at all? If so, and this is just my personal opinion, I don't like the way the Madstad looks with a top on it, especially the TD / Bullet style frames, angles are just wrong.
I started off with the Madstad, and switched to Kev's Nascar windshield, which I love. Had to get the baker air wings as well.
https://allthingsslingshot.com…-nascar-styled-windshield
I don't think you'd go wrong with any of them though
Agreed. No top and don't plan to. I like the look of the NASCAR, but wings would be a must.
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All, so after a few rides and having to turn around twice to pick up my hat...I'm looking at windshields. I've done my reading and am down to the madstad single or the F4. I'm a little over 6'1", 33 inseam and I want to look over it, so I figure the 11" madstad is as high as I should go. I live in Vegas so cockpit airflow in the summer is a MUST. I know the F4 (love the look and the extra strength) would need to have wings added while the madstad can be adjusted. Madstad seems the obvious choice; however, I read several posts indicating the madstad flexes in the wind. My wife is less than 5 foot and will have to look through any shield...so having the screen flexing at speed is not an option. The threads I read that mentioned flexing were old. Those of you that have bought a madstad in the last year...does it flex in the wind?
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I am assuming you got the kit for the FZ-1. Did you watch the install video for it on their site?
1. you will need extra fuses depending on how many circuits you set up. Will the halos be separately switched from the underbodies? The max will be 30 amps because of the 30 amp inline fuse in the red power wire. You should use a 10 amp for both or a 10 amp on each one, the 10 amp for both might be too small if so go to a 15 amp. A rule of thumb is the smaller the better but enough to handle the circuit.
I used double sided tape for both my installs with on problems.
Good question about the inner or outer rail, I had that one myself. They have a video about the frame rail install also but it wasn't completely clear on the subject. Here is what I found out. If you use the outer rail it will be seen better than with the inner rail. One thing, consider the lift points up front you will want to have the strips on the side pointing out. If six was on the bottem use 7 to mount them. Where the rails come together in the front is tricky, remember those lift points. There will be some close points with body panels as you move to the rear.
It is going to be a bitch if you don't have a lift to work with. If you can get under it and with your face more than 6 inches away from the rails it is easier to lay out how you want it to look. you can also use wire ties to hold the strips in place while you figure it out.
It's a lot of crap but it's worth it.
Jamesgn
I used 1 10 amp fuse, largest that came with the kit. Has 4 halos and the underbody kit on 1 fuse. No problems so far.
I went with the outer rails as the strip was too long for the inner.
I have race ramps so install was easy. I'm just hoping they stay stuck with Vegas heat. I zip tied where I could but the body panels made it impossible for a lot of it. Love them, but do wish they were a little brighter.
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Called Slingmods and they were 0 for 3 on these questions and TricLED has closed for the day. Hoping someone can provide some help.
1. What size fuse do I use in the FZ-1 fuse block for the kit (4 halos and underbody)? It comes with a two of ea., 2 amp, 3 and 10. Guy at Slingmods guessed a 20 amp? If he's right I have to go find some of these small fuses.
2 Install video for the fuse block suggested mounting it to the space right under the factory block...but how? It comes with a back cover, but no way to attach it to anything. Double side tape, velcro, small machine screw drilled through bottom plate?
3. Do the long LED strips go on the inner or outer frame rails? Install vid has them on the outer, but with my 2018 there's a lot of body molding that covers part of the outer rail. I could get under there and mock it up...but if someone's done it on 2018+ that would save me some pain.
Thanks!
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Personally, I don't believe you'll have any problem. My wife is only 5 feet tall and she doesn't have any trouble driving our Sling at all when she slides the seat forward. I just have to remember to slide the seat back before I get into it or else I'm driving with my head between my knees...
We've rented a couple and she has a hard time.
I'm thinking about buying the pedal set from Slingmods and getting some 2" longer bolts. I'll fab up some wood to sandwich between. Couple more inches...
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Hello all. My new to me SS is being delivered today! YIPPEE. Hoping there's an idea out there to make it easier to drive for my better half. My wife is small (I'd say short but she might read this :). She don't hit 5 foot with shoes on. Is there a safe option for extending the pedals/bringing them closer to the driver? Thought about pedal extenders, but don't want to create an unsafe condition. Anyone using these? Thanks.
Edit. I'm 6'2", so I'm looking for an option I can leave in, that brings them a couple inches closer that I can live with too.
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Yep, where I got my stuff. I didn't need to add the terminal blocks, but it does make it MUCH easier to add/remove/change things without having to change the wiring.
Here's the link to the stuff I bought:
- Main 50A breaker between battery and fuse block
- Fuse block - watch out, there are some with different relay types. I kept it simple - all relays are the same.
- Relays - I just took the wire straight out of the relay mount and plugged it directly into the fuse block. I might suggest finding ones with longer wires - these 5-1/2" wires were just a 1/2" too short for the furthest plugs. I ran each relay to the fuses on left but you don't have to.
- Main wiring between battery and fuse block. I bought the 6 ga 10 ft. Didn't even use the black.
- Terminal Blocks. Again, you don't have to use these. I wired the fuses and relays to these so that I could just plug whatever switch into the block instead of having to tap wires. Does make it much easier to move things around without having to rewire. Did work good for me because I realized I wired my switches backward (#1 switch is in the #3 spot, #3 switch is in the #1 spot, but oh well).
Sorry, I'm sure I'm missing something, but why would you go this route as opposed to a seemingly simpler Blue Sea fuse block? What are the positives/negatives of this option?
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Hey CHIEFP were you able to get the horn you were looking for?
Yes, ordered direct from elec connections when slingmods told me it would take a month. On to the next problem. I will be installing some lights for sure at some point (maybe a lot of lights :), so from my reading, I would benefit from an additional fuse block. BUT the horn draws more than 10 amps so I'm left with just the Madstad fuse block option...which is some pricey stuff!
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Just buy the Plug and Play horn from slingmods. It's freaking loud and it's easy to install
If only it was in stock
