Posts by Roadhawg

    I'm curious to see more discussion on this. I have the stock 305-30-20 on my SLR as well and I've ordered a fender from Polaris that should be here soon. My question is, when it's time for a new tire back there, will I be able to go with a slightly taller tire with the 20 inch wheel or will I have to drop down to an 18 inch wheel so the taller tire will fit under the fender and also not be pressed against the swing arm?

    Yep,, Its a lot of work to make deep bass. You can install containers inside the pods. That works fine. But some have asked how I did mine... Well here is your look inside my storage boxes..... :D


    One thing I forgot to add. Add some poly-fill inside the containers before you seal them up ... I use pillows and cut them open and then tie them into the containers so they wont move around. I use pillows so they will keep the poly-fill in one place. It will make the bass even deeper.


    Basically if you look at the first post you are essentially building two sealed speaker boxes. They inside space (air volume) of each box is almost perfect for a 12" sub.

    If I ever have a kidney stone that I need pulverized, I'll ask you to take me for a ride... lol 🤟


    I bet they sound (feel) great!

    Take out the two screws and slide it ahead half an inch it lifts right off.

    So, what you're saying is, it's a good idea to carry a tire repair kit under the roll hoop and a screwdriver in the glove box... lol 👌

    I've just brought Ruby back to her original ride height. Now I'll play around with the settings.


    I'm currently at 4 clicks front & back. I'll try 2 clicks rear, 4 clicks for the front as Rob the Slob suggests for my Friday ride. Any other adjustments will be done just a little bit at a time!

    I haven't been a member of this forum for very long and didn't realize until a few minutes ago that when you mention "Ruby" in your posts, you're referring to your Slingshot... lol 😊

    Plug kit with CO2 inflator, it stores nicely under the roll hoop bump.

    Thanks Red! I wasn't even aware there was space under the roll hoop bump. Pics truly are worth a thousand words... lol

    This is an awesome forum - I learn something new every day! 😊

    Anyone else disappointed with the finish of the Sparco steering wheel or did I just get lucky? This is the way the wheel looked when I bought my ride. It isn't peeling or anything, I'm just very disappointed with how it looks.

    Polaris really did their homework on the interior and suspension. Vehicle feels much more refined OTHER than that auto transmission. I feel like I cam shift faster with my manual. Love the front end. Acceleration maybe felt a little quicker but not by much. I'm good with my 16 but thumbs up to Polaris on this model.


    Polaris really did their homework on the interior and suspension. Vehicle feels much more refined OTHER than that auto transmission. I feel like I cam shift faster with my manual. Love the front end. Acceleration maybe felt a little quicker but not by much. I'm good with my 16 but thumbs up to Polaris on this model.

    Looking forward to seeing the parade of '20s at future Slingshot events. Just out of curiosity, I wonder if the suspension components on the '20 are compatible with earlier model chasis?

    I am looking for info on mounting my luggage racks with the Slingshade. I heard from one person that another person successfully installed them with the Polaris top but I didn't get any info or pics on the install. In fact, in my old age I don't remember who passed this info on to me. So if you have any knowledge, or know the person who did this, please let me know here or in a private message.


    Cheers to all!

    I contacted the folks that make those Baker luggage racks and asked them about that very thing. They responded positively and said their racks could be installed with the Polaris sling shade, however, it required modified clamps and some drilling. I don't know, I may be over reacting, but I wouldn't tell someone with a brand new Slingshot that he has to drill anything to make their product work... lol I've changed my mind and didn't order them. Sorry guys.

    So I just bought my SS in May of this year. I have only 450 miles on it and when I was washing it yesterday, I noticed that the black panels in the back are fading it's color. I put some armor all on them to take away the white fade, but this is not sustainable. Is there any recommended treatment that I can use to keep that "black" look?

    I can only speak for myself, but living in Arizona has its own unique problems with UV rays that destroy nearly everything on the planet, regardless of what a manufacturer claims. Drove my SLR to Tucson today for its first service and noticed a 2015 SL sitting out in the mid-day sun. The interior looked horrible! Everything from the floor to the top of the steering wheel was either faded, cracked, had holes in it or so badly weathered that it looked a hundred years old, and it was only a 2015. A few weeks ago I searched YouTube for reviews on products that offer the best UV protection and then headed to Walmart. After much deliberation, I've chosen McGuire's as my preferred product and we'll see how it does. The important thing is to use it religiously and always look for shady parking spaces... 😊

    Roadhawg I used a similar bulb that is direct wire. I had existing ballast in my fixtures and it only took me a few minutes to rewire and remove the ballast. All you have to do is make one end the fixture connect to the white wire (neutral) and connect the black wire (load) to the other end of the fixture. The bulbs have the ballast or whatever they require built into them.


    I got my bulbs from my local True Value guy. He ordered 2 cases of 25 bulbs each. . I belive I bought 4 8' 5000k bulbs for $86.00. They are more expensive but they are a bit brighter and they dont humm when super cold and they are pretty much instant on even when its 25 degrees.


    Also the cost isnt more expensive than regular high output bulbs if you need the whole fixture. Because you will just need the housing. You wont need to spend $28.00 for the ballast.

    Yes, I did the same thing, but only after three attempts did my lights work. First, I simply replaced the fluorescent bulbs with the LEDs and hit the switch... no workie. Then I disassembled the fixtures and removed the ballast, but continued using the existing sockets. Put it all back together and hit the switch... no workie. Disassembled the fixtures, again, and installed the socket that came with each of the LED bulbs. Put it all back together, again, and hit the switch... Eureka! Took me an hour to hang the first fixture and ten minutes to hang the second... 😋😜🤣

    Another successful purchase from Slingmods that's going on right after dinner. I've only purchased a few items from Slingmods thus far, but I've been extremely happy with the professional quality and flawless craftsmanship of their products. They're a good vendor and I hope to see their inventory of replacement parts and innovative accessories grow.