I have the same universal mount as pictured above.
JVC deck with Android auto.
During daytime, it is useless other than being a mirror to view the clouds and sun above.
I installed a cheap anti-glare screen protector found on Amazon. I trimmed to fit.
Is it 100%?? No
But, Way better!!!
How many strips of sequential lights? Your previous post looked like 3.
I think I had mentioned before, as you add circuits in parallel, the overall impedance drops. Basically, each leg cuts overall resistance. So, 3 parallel 100ohm resistors makes a total of 33 ohms of resistance.
You may need to try a higher resistance on each strip. Perhaps a 220 ohm or 470 ohm on each.
Or, place a single resistor as in your "left" drawing on post 146.
It would be a trial/error to find the resistance that works.
All the best to you Sam!
You are truly one of the GOOD ONES.
I have appreciated your input and "how to" videos.
I first found your videos shortly after buying my Slingshot early last summer. Googling "slingshot center brake light not working" brought me to your video explaining to bypass the rear antenna amplifier. My 3rd brake light was back. I don't need radio reception, all my music is bluetooth.
Thanks again for all your efforts!
So now I’m trying to decide if it should put resisters here or here....
Photo to the left.
Since you are adding 3 additional parallel circuits, 100 ohm each may not be sufficient.
You may need to go to 470 ohm on each.
drew this on my phone.
Let's see if it uploads.
samowens44 welllll how about that! Key on and all flashers work- key off and no flashers work.
Did you put the resistor only on the hot wire? Or one on both the ground and hot going to the black box?
I added a 100 ohm (2 watt) in series with the with the turn signal wire going to the "black box".
I added a 100 ohm, 2 watt in series (inline) on the turn signal input to each black box. I will draw a picture and post up shortly.
All factory wiring to stock remains intact.
To expand a bit on what Sam has posted:
I hope this does not confuse anyone but.....
My added LED strips are "T-tapped" to the existing running and blinker lights.
Electrically, this is an added "parallel" circuit.
Adding anything in parallel drops total resistance of a circuit, thus increasing current.
The lower the resistance of the added parallel circuit, the greater the increase in current.
While I did not measure the impedance (resistance) of these "el cheapo" LED strips, I can assume they are quite low.
As Sam mentioned, when the key is off, battery voltage is slightly lower. Add that additional current caused by the added low impedance LED strip and "boom boom.......out go the lights".
Adding an additional resistor in a parallel circuit increases impedance but actually reduces the load and thus, reduces the current. Making the factory Slingshot circuit happy again.
My light strips are blinking at the same brightness as without the resistors. As Sam also mentioned, LED's are not like incandescent or halogen bulbs. LED's are lit by a chip that provides a constant voltage.
I would be willing to bet that larger value resistors will likely work. How big? That would depend on the minimum input voltage requirements of the LED strip.
Being a firm believer in "if it ain't broke, don't try to fix it"......
I will just thank Sam again for sharing the 100 ohm resistor mod.
It works for me.
Thank you for sharing info on this.
I installed some "el cheapo" DRL / sequetial turn signal strips last summer.
I believe I paid around $17 for them on Amazon (Big spender!!).
They work perfectly when the key is on.
Normal "on" is white daytime running lights, turn signal activates a sequential chasing amber.
My problem was with key off, there seemed to be too much of a drain to allow hazard flashing to operate.
Luckily, I haven't been in an emergency situation that required hazard flash but, there have been a few times when it would have been safer to have flashing hazards.
The 100 ohm resistor addition has solved the problem!!
I added a 100 ohm (2 watt) in series with the with the turn signal wire going to the "black box".
I purchased the 2 watt resistors in a large assorted pack from.......any guesses???.....for a whopping $10.
and.... I have 198 assorted leftover sizes for future projects.
This is a video showing before and after adding the 100 ohm resistor:
Eco.....grandmas with me
City.....speeding tickets
Sport.....reckless driving tickets...from burning rubber
Sport+.....loss my license....
I was thinking:
Eco.....ZZZZZZzzzzzz
City.....Good Morning!
Sport.....Hello Officer....
Sport+.....But, your Honor, I have a family.
I use cruise control on my ride to and from work.
It is a full hour on the highway and cruise, set at 78, keeps me just below that definite ticket speed of 80.
Since weather is not cooperating, I only took the slingshot to work on Monday. Used cruise control as usual.
Setting stayed at Sport +3
Everything appeared as normal as without the Pedal Commander.
I did not use cruise to accelerate - just hit the button to hold constant speed. Tapped brake to disable.
I went for a 150 plus mile loop on Sunday.
Kept mine at Sport +3
Roads were all backroad twisty's. Most posted speeds were 45-55mph. Was perfect setting for my driving.
Definitely put that grin back on my face - similar to when I first got the Slingshot.
I could see this setting being a bit too sensitive for start/stop city or bumpy roads.
I used cruise control on the highway yesterday.
It doesn't "shut down" the unit. The Pedal Commander gets it's power from the inline connection at the pedal.
When activating cruise control, the vehicle computer does it's own thing to maintain speed until it is disabled, brake depressed, or (IIRC) large movements of gas pedal.
I wasn't specifically paying attention to anything in particular. Cruise worked fine.
The balls on SSO are gigantic, they are calling out pedal commander for being a knockoff when the pedalmax is also a knock off...
Just saying, the hypocrisy there is really funny, just another perfect example why everyone should vote with their wallet and boycott the F out of SSO.
But, it is made with "automotive rated components and wiring".
That's a pretty big honor in the industry.
According to someone (who might be biased since he sells the Pedal Max), the Pedal Commander is a cheap knock-off. I'm really happy with my cheap knock-off!!!
I like that Pedal Commander has a far cleaner design, plugs inline with the existing plugs only (no other knob connections, or holes needed for a knob) and offers a bluetooth interface.
Very happy with my cheap knock-off as well!
Nobody has yet to compare this pedal commander to an ECM tuned slingshot....I would like to have that comparison if at all possible...
Is your Slingshot tuned?
Perhaps you could jump in on the group buy and share your results.
Received mine in the mail yesterday. Installed a little over an hour ago. For now, I located in the same location as @Jdymag132 and @OrangeSlingFL . Since this will likely be a "set it and forget it" unit, this may very well be the permanent home.
Initial thoughts: I like it.
Current setting: Sport +3
I was only able to get out for a very short ride. Pedal response is much more to my liking.
No testing other than comparing: Holding 50mph in 3rd gear and mashing the throttle as fast as my foot could.
There was a very noticeable difference with the Pedal Commander activated.
I have had two different 24" sequential DRL (white) / sequential turn (yellow) strips on my Slingshot.
The first set worked flawlessly. They were "side firing" so, I had them mounted underneath the front valance. Emergency flashers worked perfectly with key on or off.
Unfortunately, since they were mounted on the under side of the valance, they got torn apart when exiting a parking lot.
I replaced them with a set that would mount on the front of the lower valance. These work fine when the Slingshot is running. DRL, turn signal, emergency flash.
Turn the key off and no more emergence flash. A brief flash can be seen....that's it.
I am assuming that there is no consistency on how these "cheapy" LED strips are manufactured / controlled.
The current set appear to require the constant 12V from the running light as the "power source" and the blinker is a trigger to begin the sequential amber. Without that 12V, flashing just won't happen.
Folks: Just a thought for shits and giggles. I know the Pedal Cdr is not waterproof, but I still like where Slingmods video has mounted it. It is centered and looks like it belongs there. Anyway, rather than use the 3d adhesive, I was thinking about using black velcro and that way be able to take it off and wrap it or enclose it somehow (yet to be decided how) to keep it from getting wet. Just thinking outside the box.
I plan to mount it where Slingmods shows in the photos - just seems to fit way too good there.
My plan is to try to waterproof via either shrink bags or shrink tubing. Just waiting for it to arrive so I can get some measurements.
This gives the idea:
I used tubing like this in the past to make custom Lipo packs for my RC planes:
or
Order placed!!
Thanks Slingmods!!!
...I thought about that also but I'm pretty sure during check out we will all be placing our year vehicle in there.......
I was thinking it may be beneficial for Slingmods - depending upon current inventory levels.
