Display MoreThis is just two things I have notices in your pics. I am looking for better pics of how it sits on the top of each side.
I know you know all there is to know about slingshots.... just wanted to double check as I am getting conflicting information.
You are saying the switches/radio part of the dash goes BEHIND these lips?
This is just two things I have notices in your pics. I am looking for better pics of how it sits on the top of each side.
There isn't much of an inside left. I trimmed my dash and left it up to someone else to put the kit in. To get it to fit, they trimmed those lips down to about nothing. I finished putting the dash on last night, guess I will go out there and take it off and see if it will go inside what's left of them. Thanks for the heads up.
I just made an aluminum tab longer than the stock one.
Used the stock mounting screw and a small screw thru the plastic then the tab. Worked like a champ
It is on the bottom and you can't see it, a little black pint and you are good
I'm just getting to this project today, and I have found the tab is lost. So this looks like it will be the solution. I'm going to search the internet for a suitable aluminum tab.
Thanks again everyone... I sanded both sides enough to get it to fit better. To take off any more means I would start entering the screw holes. It still doesn't sit flush, but I attached some weather stripping to the back of it to fill the gaps.
thanks everyone! I also asked Erica and she recommended gorilla glue epoxy so I would have the ability to adjust it before it set. Worked great!
Have to attach this to my new dash (picture shows the backside). I recall when I took this piece off my old dash it was horrible to get it off, so I assume it was somehow glued.
I don't think double stick tape will work well for this piece. What do you recommend?
I have the SSV Works kickpods and had basic marine 6.5" speakers in there that were fine. I just upgraded to JL speakers that I bought from a friend who is putting competition speakers in his slingshot. They are nicer speakers and sound great.
But the screw hole placement on the JLs are weird. They don't really fit the pod (the hole is just about too big - we did drill screwholes for the JL but they are half into the hole so they would be barely in there.
Also... the JLs are smaller in circumference and the previously drilled holes show.
I ordered spacers which I thought would cover the holes and at the same time allow for more secure attachment of the JLs. When they came... same thing. The JL screwholes are odd and will not work with the spacers. The spacers don't cover the screw holes. I researched a bunch of other spacers and they all seem to have the same circumference for 6.5" speakers.
Now what. Any thoughts before I head down to the local audio place to see if they can make something? Sheesh all I wanted was upgraded speakers, and it turns into this. But that's the norm for me.
Thanks!
Thanks everyone for all the encouragement. I know I ask a lot of questions here.... if I can find an answer researching the internet I do. If I can't, I ask here. You guys always come through. You rock 
IT WORKED!
Between the weight on top, being in the sun, and hitting it gently with the heat gun got it almost to the angle it should be. I took it off this morning. Letting it sit in the sun again, then will do the process over and it should be good to go.
I agree, I got a dash that was stored at the bottom of a pile and the weight pushed it out of shape. What a maddening thing this was.
If I could just stop seeing new mods, I would save myself a lot of trouble and frustration............
If worse come to worst, you could always try this -
slingshotinfo.com/wcf/index.php?attachment/106842/
Good Luck!
Yep I have the tape and planned on using it. I just hit it with the heat gun on low for 20 minutes back and forth gently, so nothing melted. When I took the bag of weight off after that, it seemed better. So we will see.
sandpaper would be the slowest, but safest method. If you are curious about what tools to not use, check my off topic tools description thread
Thanks wokka I remember talking with you at Maggie Valley last year
OK so no one has the NavAtlas double din kit..... So my new crazy dash is 1/8" too wide for it. The dash kit is metal.
I have LOTS of tools in the basement... how do I trim it 1/8" and what do I use...............
Thanks!
So it's out in the sun now and I hit it with the hair dryer on high for about 10 minutes. Overnight didn't do anything... as soon as I took the weight off the push pins holding in the switch/radio section popped out.
I think it's going to need the heat gun. Later this afternoon I will hit it gently with that. Not sure any of this is going to work, but I sure hope so. I never expected a defective brand new dash and so I put $250 worth of TufSkinz carbon fiber stick ons before installing. Lessons learned... fit first. So I really want to make this work so I am not out the $250.
We will see. Thank you EVERYONE for all the support, advice, and encouragement.
if it were me....but I don’t know anything......
I would buy this one with the old part number on it......Just sayin...https://www.partzilla.com/prod…nt=High%20AOV%20Parts%202
whoooo I’m tired...
I've bookmarked that in case this doesn't work. But how can I go wrong with a bag of MiracleGrow on it! 
I got really mad at all this today and brainstormed. Decided to try something. Put the dash out in the sun most of the day (it's about 66 here today). It got more pliable.
I pushed and pulled and yanked and got it on and screwed in, but the radio area was still sticking out as before. But it was bending more easily. So I got all the weight I could find in the garage and put it on top of the dash. It pushed the radio/switches area almost in.
Then I pushed it in the rest of the way and pinned it. I'm going to leave it like this overnight and out in the sun all day tomorrow.
We will see what happens at the end of the day. If it's no better, perhaps I will try gently going back and forth with a heat gun on low and doing this again.
It's obvious at this point that it is the right dash - perhaps it was stored incorrectly. We will see what tomorrow afternoon holds.
It's just so discouraging that everything has to be so difficult.
Display MorePeggy.
May ask some dumb questions.....if so, just trying to help but hard to see from pictures. Please ignore.
In your side by side pictures, the new dash has a dressing (plastic panels creating a 2 layer dash) on the right and left sides. The old dash does not appear to have this dressing. Did you move those panels from the old to the new dash? If not, can those panels be removed with a couple of pins/screws? I ask because in your first pictures it appears that the dash may be catching on something up top, keeping it from dropping in like it should. If the two dressing pieces can be easily removed, I would do so and then see if the dash fits better.
I looked at the dash between model years. 2016s (early) used a different part number, then the part was rolled to 5453137 likely with 2016.5s. That should be the part number for both your two dashes, correct?
Finally, if you take your old dash and put in back in place, does it line up as it should? The first pictures to me really look like interference, you need to get the top/front of the dash to drop down some.
Just a couple of questions......the company you ordered from does sale Polaris stock parts, and if the numbers match, would be hesitant to order a new one. It is possible one got damaged if stacked etc, but.......
No questions are ever dumb... I sure ask a lot here...
Both dashes are identical in every way. See picture.
The new dash has a plate installed under the center part that I took off from the old dash as this is what holds my windshield centerpiece on. The old dash obviously has the entire radio cavity trimmed out. That's why I need the new dash.
When laying on the floor, as from the previous pictures you can see the angle of the new dash is severely different from the old. That's where the problem is.
I am giving it one last shot. I just ordered another one on Polaris' website. I was very careful to make sure to pick 2017 SLR... same part number tho. When it arrives, if it's the same problem I'm really giving up.
The current dash I was sent not only doesn't fit in the radio/switches are but it doesn't sit quite right elsewhere either. So either it's a dash from a previous model year or it is totally warped.
I think I would have them send me another one or a refund.
I will ask parkshark for a refund, but they may not take it back as since I had no idea the dash would come so defective I put my carbon fiber tuffskinz on before attempting to install.
I was checking number and they changed them almost every year. 2016 had one and then 2016.5 had the same number as the 2017 but 2018 was changed as well as 2019
Yes but I checked on Polaris' own parts website. It is the correct part number. All you have to do is plug in your year and model it Polaris brings it up. I'm going to order another one directly from Polaris this time and see what happens. If it comes in as bad as this one, I'm done with the slingshot.
I am thinking they changed the angle on some of the newer versions and perhaps it is for a different model. what did they say when they saw the pictures? will they take it back? or send another one to see if its different. may have to order a different year to get the right one.
Same number stamped in the plastic of both parts. It's definitely defective, I just tried this and you can see it so clearly:
