Posts by samowens44

Quote from Bigdog

I installed 6 resisters today one on each of the two string lights (turn signals) and one on the sequential light(s). There are 6 sequential bulbs 3 on each side. One resister for 3 lights. Not individually. One resister for all 3.

my emergency flashers work but not with the key off....

now what?

The problem is you have exceeded the current limits of the Flasher module for the true Emergency flasher retirements. Look at my explanation of the two power sources of the flasher. There is no way to fix it, too many lights. I suggest don’t worry about it. If you need to use the emergency flashers for a safety requirement remember to leave your key on. Now if you must leave the flashers on for a longer period, run the motor. One other way would be to add a relay with a switch to disconnect all the extra leds. Extreme but it would solve the problem.

Thanks for the update on my friend, Paul of the UK. I did many Photo Projects of his Fantastic Slingshot. I am truly sorry for all his discomfort and wish for a speedy recovery. Paul, you have many friends that are praying that you get a better deal and advance to cured!! Good Luck Mate!!

A view of Paul's beautiful Slingshot on a Fall Background.

This was a Project that Paul wanted for a Website he frequented.

Quote from Trinilover

Good Evening everyone, I'm new to the forum but I also had blinker issues. I bought spoiler leds with the fog light harness, upper brow and lower brow from Slingmods hooked everything up and the drivers side would blink fast. If I turned off the fog light switch the blinkers would only blink once then stop. I tore my SS apart 4 times trying different ways of connecting these leds. I noticed that when I would connect and disconnect the factory harness from the drivers side port I would have to really push the connection in to get the marker lights to work. So I removed the drivers side light and plugged it into the passenger side port and the same thing happened. So I got into my vehicle and drove to the Polaris dealer they ran a test on the drivers side light and it was defective lucky for me I'm still under warranty if not that would've been a $216 purchase. So if your having issues on one side I would have the dealer test the lights. Part is on order once I get the new light I'll do an update post.

You did some good trouble shooting by moving the lights to see if trouble moved. That will help others with similar troubles. Thanks for sharing. Welcome to the Slingshotinfo forum.

Happy Birday mytoy ! Hope you don't get your picture taken by the "Fuzz".

To all the members on Slingshotinfo, thanks for all the comments and testimonials of how some of my video have helped some of you. It was also great to hear that my video have helped some of you with the decision to purchase a Slingshot.

I can report now that our Slingshot and Trailer has been sold, so I am now free to move on with our plans.

You may still see me active with creating Photo Creations of Slingshots and interesting backgrounds. We are just not Slingshot Owners now, I still want to keep up with all the members and their fun with the Slingshot.

It is very nice to hear all the support and kind words. I appreciate you all, it has been a family affair!.

Snazzy was sold today! Gail and I have enjoyed our 5 years of Slingshot Thrill life experience. We had two Slingshots, 2015 and 2017 Midnight Cherry. We have traveled from Florida to Oregon with the 2015 model. Our journey of ownership has taken up through many thrilling adventures, product installations, accessory ideas and many group rides. We enjoyed two years of Slingshot in the Smokies Event. Met many friends throughout the country.

We are at a fork in the road and are taking on new adventures. I appreciate the opportunity to produce many video to aid and help our fellow Slingshot Owners as they progress along with learning their Slingshot. My video will still be available on my Youtube Channel, samowens44. I will continue my membership try to keep an appearance on the Forum with my Photo Edit Creations.

Sam Owens Media and Info Section will still display threads to help the New Owners along with Ride Adventure Thread and Photo Creations for Slingshots.

Quote from Bigdog

great info Sam, now I want to know how you typed on top of the picture....

Bigdog Lets move this to a private message and I will talk you through it. I think this is out of the subject area and will drag it on passed the subject point.

A quick answer to his question, more details may be needed to successfully finish a project.

To edit a photo for text on a computer. You need the App Paint under your program key. Go to the lower left button, click and then in search box type Paint. When you see it in the display, click and it will open.

To edit a photo with text and graphic lines, open your photo by click file and open, then select the file with the photo to edit. Once it opens, you can place text on the photo, or in the lower right corner click, hold and drag the little square to display a white area to type in. The you need to create a text box in the white area by clicking on The big "A". Nothing will happen until you click on a spot in the white area to select an area to type. As you click drag the dotted line to the area you want to type in. You can adjust it later to fit your text. You can also select the graphic tools of arrows and lines. You will need to get use to using them, but this is the simplistic photo editing.

To type on the photo, you just drag your text box on the photo and type, you can drag to a location or change the size by dragging. The lines on the photo are by selecting the line graphic option and dragging to the locations you want.

Good Luck, let me know in a private message and I will work you through a project if you need help.

SoCal I do not mind explaining things. I hope all folks will ask if they want to know "Why". There is a very good reason and most people do not think of the engineering that goes into the different systems in all vehicle. A lot of times it is for safety reasons and others to save power.

Lets start with what happens when you turn the ignition key from off to on position. A lot of power up is done throughout the Slingshot.

First there are three main power feeds with large fuses mounted in the Battery Compartment. Each provide power to special systems that work together for safety, some work for the lighting and one is for the ESP for Stability. Fuses and circuit breakers are separated into systems that function together.

All the the relays power up and deliver power to the fuses and breakers to all the systems. One of these relays is called the Secondary Light and Horn Relay. It puts power on the Flasher Module to power the side markers and Secondary Lights, the Lights on the Outside fenders, they are not considered headlights for US Models only side lights. For your Information the Primary Light relay powers just the two Headlights in the Center, they are your low beam and high beams. So, with the key on, you get full battery voltage supplied to the Flasher Module. That is why you lights are all bright and no dimming on the Emergency flashing.

Here is what is happening when you don't have the ignition switch in the on position. Nothing!!! No relays are operated, so no power is delivered to any circuits in the Slingshot System. There is a DG/PK wire that delivers special power to the Flasher Module. This does not allow the full current to flow and the Switchback lights are not designed into the requirements under those conditions. The resistor has lowered the current below the full operation limits of the LEDs. Darn those limits, there we go again. Hey they are there for a reason. The folks designed this to allow the flashers to emergency flash for a longer time period and not have a dead battery. Full power could knock out the Slingshot battery in short time.

So, you don't need the Switchbacks to flash under emergency conditions anyway, without the resistor, the system will not flash with them hook up.

Knowledge will help solve other problems, I am glad you asked that question SoCal.

Look at pins 1 and 2 of the Flasher Module Pinout. Two power sources.

Folks I want to make a finishing statement for this thread. SoCal started this thread with a question about turns signals intermittently failing to flash. Contacting TricLEDs directly, he was sent new switchback modules, one for both sides. Replacing the Module fixed his turn signal failure condition for turn signal operation. We thought everything was over and we could close the thread with a complete solution.

Then, along came mpj220 . He described a totally different Turn Signal System Failure. He had installed Aux LED lights on his front spoiler to flash with his turn signals. All worked fine. The he discovered, when stopped and with the Emergency Flashers activated and the ignition key off, he got only one blink and all stopped, no more flashing. With the key in the on position, his Emergency Flashers work fine along with all his other Aux LEDs on the front Spoiler.

After reading our thread about adding a 2 watt 100 Ohm resistor, he installed the resistor in the signal line. He reported now his Emergency Flashers are working.

SoCal, tried his Emergency Flashers with the ignition key off and reported it failed. He installed the resistor and has reported that his entire Turn Signal System is all working correctly, after installing the 2 watt 100 Ohm resistor to his turn signal leads and the Aux LEDs.

Now I had an even different condition of turn signal system failure. I installed LED Monitor lights on my rear view mirror. I connected them to the turn signal leads and tested them out. With the key on and engine not running, all turn signal lights flashed perfectly, along with my Aux Monitor LEDs. Then I went to take a test ride. When I activated the turn signals, they fashed one time and quit. No more flash.

I knew from Ohm Law that the problem was when you add additional lighting, you increase the current. After investigating the Flasher Modules for the Slingshot, I found it makes a check for current limits for the turn signal lights. If too much is flowing it will shut it down and alert you that something is wrong.

So, the way you lower current is to add resistance to the lead and you will get it back to limits and the flasher will work. The LEDs have a wire range of current and voltage operation where they will work. That is why adding just a little resistance will correct the problem.

Now, if you have added anything to your turn signal leads, you need to check your emergency flashers with the key off to see if they work. If they don't and everything else flashes right, add the resistor. If anything fails, add the resistor. The resistor will fix any turn signal failure after installing any aux leds to the turn signal system.

Adding lighting to any other lighting system in the Slingshot will not need the resistor, the Flasher Module on the turn signal circuit needs the resistor to lower current. Want to make that clear. Only the turn signal system require this mod when adding LED light.

Good luck to all, over and out on this subject.

SoCal, so glad to hear all is working fine with all features of the Turn Signal System and your Aux Lighting systems. We have success. I am glad to play a part in the solution. Thank you for your nice words of support.

DER, here is a birthday ride I created just for your Birthday! Ride around till you find it, enjoy the ride.

Happy Birthday from Samowens44!

Folks, I think we have covered adding Switchback LEDs to the front of the Slingshot well. Some mount on the spoiler or above the Headlights left and right sides. There are a number of different options that perform multiple task of lighting conditions while driving. They include Switchback, driving lights with change to turn signal flashing when turn signals are on. You do not see these lights as you drive, others will see them.

I came up with another option for Turn Signal Indicator to alert the driver that the turn signals are still on. I am bad about driving with the turn signals on when making turns of less than 90 degrees. This, I know is very unsafe and could lead to an accident. So, I came up with my version of a Turn Signal Monitor System that I hooded to the Turn Signal leads. I mounted 7 in LED Light Strips on the Drivers Rear View Mirror support arm. When my turn signals are activated, I can't miss the bright LED strips both left and right when making turns. After about 6 months of using the system, I have always canceled my turn signals when turn is completed, as I see the flashing LEDs. I have video that will help you install this mod if you find it may help you drive safer. This is the system that I encountered the Flasher Failure with adding LEDs and came up with the Resistor Mod. I do not have the driver modules only the LEDs.

Quote from Bigdog

@sam, watch this video....

What could go wrong ?

Display More

That is why I have tested mine for heat by feeling and there is no heat at all. Now the more you add to the lead, more current will go through. I know 1 module or LED Strip will work safely with a 2 watt 100 Resistor. Bigdog you are going outside of this mod and I don't know how it works or what kind of lights are on the end and if they all light at the time time or sequentially between the modules.

Folk, no one connects a resistor across the terminal of a battery. He did that to demonstrate what selecting a resistor with too low wattage can get hot. To make sure you select a resistor with the proper wattage, with the lights flashing hold finger to resistor and feel for heat. After 10 or 15 sec of flashing it should not even be warm. It should feel the same.

I would recommend staying with 1 resistor and 1 module for what I have introduces as a solution for the majority of owners that have hooked up Switchback Module, which only have 1 light and 1 module. Use any other connections at your own design, I don't have enough information to advise.

Now that we have found that some members want to add multiple lights with each having its own driver module. Each module that will draw current when connected to the turn signal lead will need a 100 ohm resistor. 4 driver modules, 4 resistors. Now, all together in parallel will create even more current in the turn signal system going to the Flasher Module. The Flasher will test to see if it is in limits. If too much current is flowing, your new aux lights will not operate.

This may not work and have intermittent failures due to spikes in voltage during certain conditions of driving. You will have to add a main resistor to lower the current more.

The Resistor Mod is designed to handle adding 1 driver module or LED strip to the turn signal lead on front, left and right. More than that and you have to do some Resistor testing to find what values you will need. This is outside this mod. range for absolute answers. You also have to increase wattage if you gain all together for 1 resistor, like 480 ohms as mpj220 suggested. You should also feel the resistor as the system is flashing to see if there is excess heat in the resistor. If it is hot, then you need a higher wattage resistor. Wattage is what allows the resistor to handle the current without overheating. Let's always be safe and check things out when we are trying to design something.

A design engineer would use Ohms Law formulas to arrive at the correct value and wattage. We are doing it trial and error. Hey it works.

I want to make it clear, the resistor is only required when wiring aux lighting to the Turn Signal System leads. If you add to the side marker lights, you do not have the failures that the Flasher Module checks for current. Good Luck and let's thank mpj220 for his drawings, video and supporting comments to help understand what we are doing with this mod.

Quote from mpj220

drew this on my phone.

Let's see if it uploads.

That shows the resistor connection to the TS lead very well. Earlier Post I posted a similar drawing to help how how the resistor is places in the circuit. The thing that is got me puzzled is the 4 driver modules. I don't understand how they operate as a unit.

Quote from Bigdog

@sam, look a the pictures in post #146....

What is the best place to add the resister?

You want to add the resistor like the first drawing. The resistor needs to be going to the Turn Signal Lead, then all other drivers go together after that. I am not sure how 4 drivers work they way it is connected, they look like they would all fire at the same time. You may need more resistance than 100 ohms. All of our discussions have been about 1 driver module with one LED strip. I don't know the operating parameters to give you a sure answer. But, that is the way to hook them up.

mpj220 Thanks for adding to the understanding of Ohms Law. I have one more idea that may be for someone to check out. Instead of a fixed resistance value of 100 Ohm. A potentiometer, variable resistor, could be used to find the range of resistor needed for special application where the 100 Ohm does not work. It has a nob or shaft to turn and changes the resistance to the circuit. You could select one with a range up to 1k put it in the circuit of the turn signal lead and turn it up until the flashers flash properly and then go up more to see how high it will go until it does not flash.

This would be for anyone wanted to find the proper resistance. Actually, you could just use it and leave it where it works. I would use a larger one than the little mini potentiometers out there.

pasted-from-clipboard.png It has three leads you hook to the middle and one of the end leads. Using an ohm meter across the leads will tell you how much resistance is at any setting you turn to. Go out and engineer. Let us know what the range is for best working of all functions of the turn signal system.

For all that want to add resistors to the Turn Signal Leads to have all theTurn Signal System to work properly, I have created a Video to help with how to connect the resistor using soldering iron and solder along with using shrink tubing.

Hope this will help.