Turn signal question

    That is why I have tested mine for heat by feeling and there is no heat at all. Now the more you add to the lead, more current will go through. I know 1 module or LED Strip will work safely with a 2 watt 100 Resistor. Bigdog you are going outside of this mod and I don't know how it works or what kind of lights are on the end and if they all light at the time time or sequentially between the modules.

    Folk, no one connects a resistor across the terminal of a battery. He did that to demonstrate what selecting a resistor with too low wattage can get hot. To make sure you select a resistor with the proper wattage, with the lights flashing hold finger to resistor and feel for heat. After 10 or 15 sec of flashing it should not even be warm. It should feel the same.

    I would recommend staying with 1 resistor and 1 module for what I have introduces as a solution for the majority of owners that have hooked up Switchback Module, which only have 1 light and 1 module. Use any other connections at your own design, I don't have enough information to advise.


    You folks will have to forgive my attempt at french...


    But, Bigdog posted this video and totally missed the correlation of current passing through a point of resistance and creating destructive heat...


    As alluded to in the thread...

    Safety Recall T-19-01


    And with the information in the video he borrowed...

    He will continue to believe that the Jcase fuse is the problem.


    This post edited 1x to remove term of endearment that may have been too strong for majority of audience.


    Slingshot Flyer! Well, of course it's red... :REDSS:

    @HOTairoutlaw


    Not once have I eluded to the resister topic being related to the current cause of the recall.


    You are confusing two different threads. (issues)’


    The resister topic is related to the add on switchback string light turn signals and figuring out a fix for that issue by adding resisters to the turn signal circuit. The incorrect resister as seen in the video, has the potential to overheat and this could cause the turn signal wires to melt. Along with any wires in the loom with the turn signal wires next to the added resister. The additional switchback lights we are adding are causing the turn signals to stop working or freeze up. This is an over loaded flasher issue. The video shows what can happen to the turn signal circuit if the incorrect resister is added in an attempt to correct that problem. Which has been an ongoing problem since 2015.....which just happens to coincide with the same timeline as the melting J Case issue. There are no factory installed resisters in the recall circuit.


    That said the turn signals are on the same circuit that is affected by the recall. Adding additional lighting to this circuit could be overloading the circuit and causing the back of the J Case to melt before the 50 amp fuse blows.


    The J Case melting issue is not with the J Case....or being to close to the battery or the exhaust pipe. I believe it has to do with the current 50 amp fuse failing to blow as its supposed to. That is why I think Polaris is going to totally eliminate the square 50 amp fuse and replace it with the 50 amp blade type fuse. That is reason for the Polaris recall. But it still is being caused by adding too many lights or other electronics to that circuit.


    So to clarify....adding too many things to the 50 amp chassis circuit is overloading it. This is causing the J Case to melt. NOT an overheated resister in the turn signal circuit. It’s like adding too many toasters to your kitchen circuit. We put too many electronics in that circuit it was never made to handle. The 50 amp fuse is failing to do its job by failing to blow. That is the topic of the recall. It’s a faulty 50 amp fuse that could be overheating before to blows melting the J Case. The connecting prongs could be to thin to handle all the current being pushed through them. The 50 amp blade fuse has much more robust prongs.

    Folks, I think we have covered adding Switchback LEDs to the front of the Slingshot well. Some mount on the spoiler or above the Headlights left and right sides. There are a number of different options that perform multiple task of lighting conditions while driving. They include Switchback, driving lights with change to turn signal flashing when turn signals are on. You do not see these lights as you drive, others will see them.

    I came up with another option for Turn Signal Indicator to alert the driver that the turn signals are still on. I am bad about driving with the turn signals on when making turns of less than 90 degrees. This, I know is very unsafe and could lead to an accident. So, I came up with my version of a Turn Signal Monitor System that I hooded to the Turn Signal leads. I mounted 7 in LED Light Strips on the Drivers Rear View Mirror support arm. When my turn signals are activated, I can't miss the bright LED strips both left and right when making turns. After about 6 months of using the system, I have always canceled my turn signals when turn is completed, as I see the flashing LEDs. I have video that will help you install this mod if you find it may help you drive safer. This is the system that I encountered the Flasher Failure with adding LEDs and came up with the Resistor Mod. I do not have the driver modules only the LEDs.


    samowens44 SAM DA MAN! I am taking time out midway through my resistor installation because I wanted to give you a big shout out that I now have flashers with the key turned off. Thank you so much for your insight and instruction and patience! In hindsight I do believe I had a bad black box and that installing a new one did correct the problem I originally had. However your resistor solution has given me flashers both with the key on and off now.. Thank you so much again Sam!

    We’ll get there when we get there and not a minute before. 😎

    Quote from SoCal

    samowens44 SAM DA MAN! I am taking time out midway through my resistor installation because I wanted to give you a big shout out that I now have flashers with the key turned off. Thank you so much for your insight and instruction and patience! In hindsight I do believe I had a bad black box and that installing a new one did correct the problem I originally had. However your resistor solution has given me flashers both with the key on and off now.. Thank you so much again Sam!

    Show us where you installed it.....I’m still waiting for my resisters to come.

    Quote from Bigdog

    Show us where you installed it.....I’m still waiting for my resisters to come.

    I installed the resistors about 4 inches back from where the yellow wire on the switchbacks plugs in. I also cut the resister pigtails back about halfway to make them shorter. I put small shrink sleeve over the solder joint and have a big piece of shrink sleeve that goes over everything. Hope this helps you out.

    We’ll get there when we get there and not a minute before. 😎

    Anyone that wants to send me a self addressed stamped envelope I am happy to send them resistors. I think I have about 45 left that I will probably never use. PM me if you would like to do this🙂


    Second thought- PM your address and I am happy to lick a stamp!😝

    We’ll get there when we get there and not a minute before. 😎

    Edited once, last by SoCal ().

    Folks I want to make a finishing statement for this thread. SoCal started this thread with a question about turns signals intermittently failing to flash. Contacting TricLEDs directly, he was sent new switchback modules, one for both sides. Replacing the Module fixed his turn signal failure condition for turn signal operation. We thought everything was over and we could close the thread with a complete solution.

    Then, along came mpj220 . He described a totally different Turn Signal System Failure. He had installed Aux LED lights on his front spoiler to flash with his turn signals. All worked fine. The he discovered, when stopped and with the Emergency Flashers activated and the ignition key off, he got only one blink and all stopped, no more flashing. With the key in the on position, his Emergency Flashers work fine along with all his other Aux LEDs on the front Spoiler.

    After reading our thread about adding a 2 watt 100 Ohm resistor, he installed the resistor in the signal line. He reported now his Emergency Flashers are working.

    SoCal, tried his Emergency Flashers with the ignition key off and reported it failed. He installed the resistor and has reported that his entire Turn Signal System is all working correctly, after installing the 2 watt 100 Ohm resistor to his turn signal leads and the Aux LEDs.

    Now I had an even different condition of turn signal system failure. I installed LED Monitor lights on my rear view mirror. I connected them to the turn signal leads and tested them out. With the key on and engine not running, all turn signal lights flashed perfectly, along with my Aux Monitor LEDs. Then I went to take a test ride. When I activated the turn signals, they fashed one time and quit. No more flash.

    I knew from Ohm Law that the problem was when you add additional lighting, you increase the current. After investigating the Flasher Modules for the Slingshot, I found it makes a check for current limits for the turn signal lights. If too much is flowing it will shut it down and alert you that something is wrong.

    So, the way you lower current is to add resistance to the lead and you will get it back to limits and the flasher will work. The LEDs have a wire range of current and voltage operation where they will work. That is why adding just a little resistance will correct the problem.

    Now, if you have added anything to your turn signal leads, you need to check your emergency flashers with the key off to see if they work. If they don't and everything else flashes right, add the resistor. If anything fails, add the resistor. The resistor will fix any turn signal failure after installing any aux leds to the turn signal system.


    Adding lighting to any other lighting system in the Slingshot will not need the resistor, the Flasher Module on the turn signal circuit needs the resistor to lower current. Want to make that clear. Only the turn signal system require this mod when adding LED light.


    Good luck to all, over and out on this subject.

    Nice wrap up Sam! Well said and well done thank you again!


    Oops, wait I have one more question. With the resistor in and the key turned off I am noticing that my switchbacks are not as bright In flash mode. No complaints but that is the only difference I can notice. When the key is on the switchbacks are as bright as they always were.


    Sorry about the final question. Reminds me of the godfather. “Just when I thought I was out they drag me back in”!

    We’ll get there when we get there and not a minute before. 😎

    SoCal I do not mind explaining things. I hope all folks will ask if they want to know "Why". There is a very good reason and most people do not think of the engineering that goes into the different systems in all vehicle. A lot of times it is for safety reasons and others to save power.

    Lets start with what happens when you turn the ignition key from off to on position. A lot of power up is done throughout the Slingshot.

    First there are three main power feeds with large fuses mounted in the Battery Compartment. Each provide power to special systems that work together for safety, some work for the lighting and one is for the ESP for Stability. Fuses and circuit breakers are separated into systems that function together.

    All the the relays power up and deliver power to the fuses and breakers to all the systems. One of these relays is called the Secondary Light and Horn Relay. It puts power on the Flasher Module to power the side markers and Secondary Lights, the Lights on the Outside fenders, they are not considered headlights for US Models only side lights. For your Information the Primary Light relay powers just the two Headlights in the Center, they are your low beam and high beams. So, with the key on, you get full battery voltage supplied to the Flasher Module. That is why you lights are all bright and no dimming on the Emergency flashing.

    Here is what is happening when you don't have the ignition switch in the on position. Nothing!!! No relays are operated, so no power is delivered to any circuits in the Slingshot System. There is a DG/PK wire that delivers special power to the Flasher Module. This does not allow the full current to flow and the Switchback lights are not designed into the requirements under those conditions. The resistor has lowered the current below the full operation limits of the LEDs. Darn those limits, there we go again. Hey they are there for a reason. The folks designed this to allow the flashers to emergency flash for a longer time period and not have a dead battery. Full power could knock out the Slingshot battery in short time.

    So, you don't need the Switchbacks to flash under emergency conditions anyway, without the resistor, the system will not flash with them hook up.

    Knowledge will help solve other problems, I am glad you asked that question SoCal.


    Look at pins 1 and 2 of the Flasher Module Pinout. Two power sources.


    great info Sam, now I want to know how you typed on top of the picture....

    Quote from Bigdog

    great info Sam, now I want to know how you typed on top of the picture....

    Bigdog Lets move this to a private message and I will talk you through it. I think this is out of the subject area and will drag it on passed the subject point.


    A quick answer to his question, more details may be needed to successfully finish a project.


    To edit a photo for text on a computer. You need the App Paint under your program key. Go to the lower left button, click and then in search box type Paint. When you see it in the display, click and it will open.

    To edit a photo with text and graphic lines, open your photo by click file and open, then select the file with the photo to edit. Once it opens, you can place text on the photo, or in the lower right corner click, hold and drag the little square to display a white area to type in. The you need to create a text box in the white area by clicking on The big "A". Nothing will happen until you click on a spot in the white area to select an area to type. As you click drag the dotted line to the area you want to type in. You can adjust it later to fit your text. You can also select the graphic tools of arrows and lines. You will need to get use to using them, but this is the simplistic photo editing.

    To type on the photo, you just drag your text box on the photo and type, you can drag to a location or change the size by dragging. The lines on the photo are by selecting the line graphic option and dragging to the locations you want.


    Good Luck, let me know in a private message and I will work you through a project if you need help.

    Good Evening everyone, I'm new to the forum but I also had blinker issues. I bought spoiler leds with the fog light harness, upper brow and lower brow from Slingmods hooked everything up and the drivers side would blink fast. If I turned off the fog light switch the blinkers would only blink once then stop. I tore my SS apart 4 times trying different ways of connecting these leds. I noticed that when I would connect and disconnect the factory harness from the drivers side port I would have to really push the connection in to get the marker lights to work. So I removed the drivers side light and plugged it into the passenger side port and the same thing happened. So I got into my vehicle and drove to the Polaris dealer they ran a test on the drivers side light and it was defective lucky for me I'm still under warranty if not that would've been a $216 purchase. So if your having issues on one side I would have the dealer test the lights. Part is on order once I get the new light I'll do an update post.