That my friends needs to be added to a parts thread for the Slingshot. @rabtech we need a central thread for parts and the numbers and at least one other car/truck or whatever it is used on. This would go back to the conversation you and I had at DDM about having a separate thread for the SS parts and info. Brakes --- suspension --- engine --- interior --- exterior --- electronics --- electrical --- brakes --- wheels --- tires and I could thing of a few more to break it down a little further.
Posts by FunCycle
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Still seems to be more info on the dark side. I did find that after I posted and then finally found the pictures.
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might be sooner than we think!
Why aren't you posting the build over here?
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Mine has been running a long time, but yes that is a must also.
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Not a soap box Gerald!! Excellent observation. Unions were a much needed and excellent voice for the working man. Most of the union leaders now are corrupt or at the very in the pocket of big business. Unions & government all need a reset from the ground up in IMO. However, as you point out, long as we the people are at each other's throat no progress will be made and the rich keep gettin richer and.......
You got that right @Bill Martin and I think that is what is going on at this time.
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Also, hook up all of the springs before you tighten the flange bolts up, it makes it a whole lot easier rather than trying to stretch the springs to reattach after the bolts are tight. I did tighten up the header first though
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Back in the day, the late 70's. They called it union busting (turning the employees against each other) so that the company's could pretty much do what they wanted. If the company's had treated their employees fairly the union's could not have existed anyway. Today big business and the government are doing the same thing by turning the citizens of these United States against each other to brew hate and discontent so that the citizens will not stick together to get something done as a group. I will get off of my soap box.
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@Ruptured Duck as always thank you....... @FunCycle did you remove it or was it was the wear visible without removal also you do have a 2015 unit right?
I replaced it with the DDM sway bar, brackets and the links. Yes I have the 2015, mostly all of the paint was gone and starting to wear into the bar. It is not visable unless you remove the brackets and the bushings but it also has 40,000 miles on it and about 8 trips to the Smokies. No easy rides up there.
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Display More@WraithSS nice info. A cross brace is another item I plan to build this winter, but that's for another posting.
I removed the factory bracket and as @WraithSS noted the very hard , assume plastic, bushing. To @Nemesis1701 question regarding stiffness improvement going to the poly bushing is going to be a little harder to calculate. We are now talking about a durometer rating of about 80-90 for the polyurethane bushing to a much harder plastic material with a higher rating.
Now Polaris either designed or sourced these bushings that have groves and a hole to allow it to be greased, but did not provide the Zerk fitting on the back of the mounting plate. another strange decision from them. The stiffer plastic will really limit sway bar movement but without a way to grease the plastic, in my opinion will fail quickly with spirited driving. An OE sized polyurethane bushing set is a good aftermarket part for someone to make.
The factory mounting bracket is rather nice and solid and would have loved to reuse them but are a good bit narrower than the new Poly replacement as you can see in the images.I have temporarily mounted the bracket and bushing to test the fitment. The Energy Suspension part fit perfectly but does move the sway bar back maybe 1/8" or so. This does not effect anything that I can tell at this time and feel comfortable recommending the part.
Now the next step for me will be to remove and weld trusses to the sides of the metal ES bracket and to also add a separate rear plate that moves it back out the 1/8" as well as providing more rear surface area for the bushing to rest.
The benefits of the new bushing is the width and the ability to grease. The added width should offset the durometer difference and prolong the life if the bushings.
I'll try to get the next steps done this week.
For those that have a question about this mod, I just looked at my stock sway bar and there was starting to be a good bit of wear where the stock bushing is and also there was no grease. So the bracket mod and the grease fitting would be a good idea. Also RD the c to c should have been 1 1/4 inch, that is all you have room for without modifying the bar.
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Looked like about 1 1/4 inch center to center will be max on the extra hole. I put the wrong distance in, it is not 1 1/2 inch.
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HAPPY BIRTHDAY
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How about this for us NA types...?!
Not quite that slow but it is a thought
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the last thing is purely personal - right now I am about eye level with the top of the windshield when I slouch at all. With an extra .75" height, I should be able to see above the windshield which will make me very happy.
And of course on the full review!You could always cut the windshield off a little. I cut 2 1/2 inches off of the stock 2015 blade and now after today my tinted shield is 1/2 inch shorter than the clear.
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Welcome @UK_Paul Now you will find out what a real forum is about. You will never meet a finer group of people. They will help you anyway they can. You will be glad you listened to me.
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Display MoreLife got in the way of plans again and I haven't mailed it off to you yet.
I should get off work early today. I'll get it in the mail tonight.
But you have to send it off to the next member of this forum that needs it.
That is the puller I was trying to get someone to make, you see it will work without stripping the threads because you can use all of the bolts.
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I don't even know what to say to you. Thank you so much! And let me know your favorite cookie flavors and I'll do what I can to get each of you something tasty in your mailbox. It may take me a bit to get them all out, but pm me your address and they'll get there.
And yes @Slingrazor, you are at the top of the list with @Bill Martin.
It takes a good bit to make me speechless, but you guys have done it.
Twice in one week ain't half bad. (Speechless)
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agree. That will be the one I install and test. I just like to experiment a little.You should see what I'm think for a muffler replacement.. no were near ready for pics. Got to work it out on paper before I start cutting and welding.
Good luck with that one, I could think of a couple good possibles but I quit welding many years ago.
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thats why I'm getting unwanted bars to test it. This is not a replacement for the aftermarket bars. They are thicker and range from 30-60% stiffer. This mod will only net me maybe %15.The stock units should be fine with that. Want know until I try. Add polyurethane bushings and for under $25 I have a cheap improvement over the stock setup.
I agree with you and it should work. I will look at mine tomorrow and see how far apart you can drill the holes.
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Because you made it possible and he could
