Posts by 2W2X1

Attention Vendors. Please email any instruction manuals you may have for your products. They will be added to the FILEBASE tab for members to access.

    California will reject any plate where they assume a number represents a letter. Good luck on the vanity plate battle. I hate CA and always hate them telling me what I can't have in the way of my plate.

    Some of the rides might go your way. We have a tendency to start/meet at the Spirit Dealer in SJ and then pick up other SS riders along our routes.

    Wow I can't even see the you have yours hooked up to lights?

    You are right, it is so highly polished that you can't see any edges. I don't do all the bling mods to my SS. Since the windrestrictor that is mass produced didn't work with the Madstad top at first and due to having a huge gap at the bottom... I made my own. So there are no lights and no fancy laser etching.

    I have been on a quest to eliminate the exhaust smell in the cab with the WP dual, F4+5 windshield and stinger top. This is a known combination that will choke you out! It is getting better. Have a few more mods planned and should be free of exhaust smell by the end of the month. I refuse to put my cat back on.

    @2W2X1 thank you for your service! I think you'll like THIS forum MUCH better... :thumbsup:

    After browsing around last night, I realize I have been missing out big time. So many great posts on mods that aren't simply buy and bolt or stick on. That is what I am all about. I'd rather fabricate and have one off or less than the masses.

    This forum is going to make my wallet cry again. I'm thinking worse so than the last year. should I hand sand the curve for the next twenty years or try using a router?

    Would it be asking too much to see the (hardware) mounting plates and bolts?

    I used a router on both sides of the 3/8" cast plexiglass I used for my custom rear windscreen to work with Stinger top.

    I then used the step down method to sand it to a nice smooth surface. Then I used a buffing wheel and got a glass like shine on my edges. Totally worth the effort.

    This forum is going to make me spend more money than I had planned on the SS.

    I hate the fender flap and never liked the buttons. Message sent for a set of the fender vents and will stand by for hood vent to match. My vented hood center is functional, but once I install fender vents, I'd prefer to match the center hood vent.

    Great job @kenny_h and @gpcustoms

    Edit: heard back from Zero DB this am and placed my order. Looking forward to cutting holes in my fenders!

    Really can't go wrong with a good cold air intake, header and exhaust. But you will want to tune the ECM after the installs.

    I'm with you, I don't do a ton of cosmetic only mods. Function is a must for me.

    Best of luck, happy modding and may your wallet not cry too hard.

    I have no excuse for why it has taken so long to move over to this forum, but looking forward to being active here and helping where I can.

    Purchased my base black 2016.5 Slingshot almost a year ago. Spent plenty of money and time modifying it from day one. Still naturally aspirated for the moment and next big plans are to install air ride. Love commuting in my SS a few days a week as it gets me into the carpool lane, weekend rides with the wife and large group rides that happen around here monthly.

    Cheers, Joey

    There is a group of about 20 in NorCal that ride monthly. Events are shared via
    Search Bay Area Slingshot Club. Also same name on Facebook.

    I am in the South bay and ride all the time.

    Welter Performance (WP) Dual Exhaust Modification -- Bring the Y pipe closer to the back of the SS and avoid rubbing issues

    I contacted Jeff from Welter Performance (WP) about my dual exhaust rubbing the rear tire against theY pipe on large dips underway. I was concerned that when I install air ride and air out the vehicle I wouldbe resting on the exhaust or give up a ton of drop in the rear. Not to mention if I lower the rear at all, Iwould rub the tire to exhaust more frequently. He asked me to measure the distance the Y pipe wasaway from the rear plastic of the Slingshot. I provided measurements that put me about 1 7/8” away.

    Jeff clearly stated that was too far and walked me through a modification that would remedy therubbing and give piece of mind for future lowering of the Slingshot. First up, he shipped out a new 2”pipe clamp with welded hanger tab to replace the fixed (welded) tab on the exhaust system. Thisprovides more adjustments in overall exhaust length.
    Using the method below, I was successful in moving the exhaust closer to the rear of the Slingshotplastic by 1”. Here are before and after pictures (Notice the band clamp on the resonators in each photo– Compare to where yours are placed and you may too need to perform this modification).



    Here is a quick walkthrough of what is involved with this modification/fix.

    Step 1: Remove the resonators and mounting hardware (band clamps & springs) that holds them inplace. Set them aside in a safe place.

    Step 2: Remove the coupler clamp holding the Y pipe in place and clamping the 3rd portion of theexhaust system. Once the 2 – 14MM nuts are loosened up, you will need to pry it open with a flatscrewdriver.

    Step 3: Remove the 14mm bolt & nut holding the Y portion of the exhaust via the welded hanger. This isattached to the frame of the Slingshot near the battery. Carefully remove the Y section from the vehicletwisting it to clear the angle drive and frame. Once fully removed from the vehicle, remove the redbushing washer form the welded exhaust hanger and set aside.

    Step 4: Secure the Y section of the exhaust in a vice or similar fashion in order to cut off the weldedexhaust hanger tab. I used a small cutoff wheel attached to my dremel and took my time. Be sure towear eye protection!

    It may be necessary to grind off any sharp edges left once the tab is removed. Be cautious and don’tgrind too heavily in the area. It is not necessary to remove the welds completely as they will be hiddenfrom view once reinstalled. Note orientation of the tab and once removed, slip the new 2” clap providedby Jeff over the end of the Y pipe.

    Step 5: Loosen the coupler clamp holding the 3rd portion of the exhaust to the 2nd portion. This is closerto the transmission. Carefully remove the 3rd portion of the exhaust. You will cut off the male section ofthe 3rd portion of the exhaust the distance you’d like your exhaust moved closer. The preferred tool is apipe cutter large enough to cut 2” pipe. Using a hack saw or saws-all is not recommended. Be sure toremove any burrs left inside or outside of the remaining pipe.

    In my case, I conservatively cut 1” off the male end of the pipe and figured if I needed more, I couldalways go back and repeat. Remember the saying, measure twice; cut once! It DOES apply here.

    Step 6: With all coupler clamps in place and left loose, rehang the exhaust system. Be sure all pieces fittogether snuggly. Start by attaching the 2” welded hanger you just installed and attach that to theframe. Leave the clamp portion loose around the exhaust for now.

    Note: I had to trim a small portion of the bushing washer so it sit flat against the newly provided hangerclamp. I basically flattened a portion of the outer diameter of the bushing material. Also due todisfigurement, I trimmed a tad off the cylinder piece that gets inserted into itself.

    Twist and apply pressure to each piece until it is seated. Tighten all 3 of the coupler clamps and thentighten the 2” hanger clamp. Reinstall the resonators (rear cans), replace the compression springs andband clamps. Now pat yourself on the back and pop open a beer!

    Here is the end result. As you can see I went from a gap of 1 7/8” down to 7/8”. This tells me my exhaustwas installed tightly the first time. Jeff Recommends a gap of between 1⁄2 “ – 5/8” and claims it will notharm the rear plastic being that close.